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A-110(b): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2007-2008)

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A-110(b): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2007-2008)

 
Old 07-03-2018, 09:48 AM
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DIY, details of each switch replacement

Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs View Post
This is also posted in the original 3rd and 4th gear thread but it is easier to have it separated. By now a lot of us have learned that the position of the switches in the 07-08 TL differ from the 04-06 TL. I used the information that was posted by JDM RICe. His pics are a lot better than mine so I stole some of them.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showp...&postcount=195

Mods....if you disagree with having a separate thread, please feel free to delete this one.

I have driven the car for about 12000 miles since I replaced the switches. I have also done a total of three 1x3 over a 15K mile stretch. The transmission shifts a lot cleaner than when I purchased the car.

Parts Needed:

2 x 28600-RKE-004
1 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A00

Parts were purchased from www.oemacuraparts.com.

Tools:

Floor Jack - DO NOT SUPPORT THE CAR WITH JUST THE FLOOR JACK.
Jack Stands
10 mm Socket
7/8 Deep Socket
Screwdrivers
Breaker Bar (PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN USING BREAKER BAR)

I started with the sensor on the bottom of the transmission.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM RICe


I accessed the sensor through the driver side wheel well. Remove tire. Please use jack stands for support.



Once the cover was moved you will see a wire harness and a couple plugs.

Attachment 51653

I unplugged the ones marked above and when you move the harness out of the way you will see the sensor.

Attachment 51654

Be careful when removing the sensor. I used a deep 7/8 socket and a 16 inch extension. I did not need to use a breaker bar for this sensor. When you remove the sensor there will be some transmission fluid that leaks out. Wipe clean before replacing the sensor.

DO NOT FORGET THE GASKET.

Attachment 51655

Plug everything back in and DOUBLE CHECK before mounting the wheel and lowering yourcar.

Second one I did was the one under the intake. Removing the intake is simple. My pics sucked again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM RICe





This one was very simple. I did not need to remove the 10 mm bolts above, but it will not hurt to remove them. Again I used a 7/8 deep socket and a 3 inch extension. I did use a breaker bar for this one.

The last one I did was the sensor in the back of the transmission.



I removed the hose in the image below to get a bit more room to get my hands down to the sensor. It is tough to see in the pics but that sensor is about 12 inches from the top of the engine.

Attachment 51656

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM RICe


Overall it took me about 2 hours to replace the three sensors. I also did a 1x3 this weekend.

I drove about 150 miles since I replaced the fluid and the sensors. The up and down shifting is a lot smoother than before. When I floor it the shifting is a lot cleaner. I have 2 long road trips this week and I will have a better chance to test it out.
Sorry to reply on a old thread, planning on doing this, and I can't see which picture replaced the 3rd switch? I only see pictures showing how to replace 2/3 switches, but everyone uses this DIY. Can someone please point out where the third one is, in the pictures?

Much appreciated!! Also, if anyone in Calgary,Canada see's this and would like to help me out with the install please let me know! 08 TL S
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:52 AM
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^ I'm in the same boat. I see the images for the 1st and last one but not the one under the intake? 1 of the 2 switch with part # 28600-RKE-004.

Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 08-17-2018, 09:40 AM
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Here is the pic from tpz76:



The switch is underneath that strut/bar thing (can you tell I'm a mechanic?). You have to look carefully, but you'll see it under there and it is barely accessible (unless you have some small, dainty hands).
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rightwinger59 View Post
Here is the pic from tpz76:



The switch is underneath that strut/bar thing (can you tell I'm a mechanic?). You have to look carefully, but you'll see it under there and it is barely accessible (unless you have some small, dainty hands).
Thank you so much!

Did this pic come from a specific thread? If it did can you share the link? Just wondering if there's any tips on how to get to it?

Thanks again!
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by devastata View Post
Thank you so much!

Did this pic come from a specific thread? If it did can you share the link? Just wondering if there's any tips on how to get to it?

Thanks again!
Yes - it came from Post #273 on this thread. Here is the link to that post. Good luck!
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:17 PM
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Thanks alot! Just wondering where you ended up picking up your parts?

Called the closest Acura dealership (in Ottawa) and thy quoted me:

2 x 28600-RKE-004 = $69.23 (each)
1 x 28610-RKE-004 = $93.66
3 x 90471-PW7-A00 = $3.63 (each)

Total = $243.01 all in (Canadian)

Is this roughly what people are spending?
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by devastata View Post
Thanks alot! Just wondering where you ended up picking up your parts?

Called the closest Acura dealership (in Ottawa) and thy quoted me:

2 x 28600-RKE-004 = $69.23 (each)
1 x 28610-RKE-004 = $93.66
3 x 90471-PW7-A00 = $3.63 (each)

Total = $243.01 all in (Canadian)

Is this roughly what people are spending?
I ordered them from acuraoemparts.com in June. It was $56.55 for each sensor and $2.57 for each gasket. That website also gives you a 5% discount for using "Acurazine" as a promo code (at least I think that was the code I used), so the parts were $174.44 after shipping.

I should take this time to report that even after replacing the ATF with Redline Type-F fluids and swapping out the sensors there are still some clunky shifts. Driving a 2008 TL Type-S with almost 80k miles on it currently. One time, while coasting to a stop, one of the downshifts was so hard that it felt like I had hit something. That only happened once, but still sorta freaked me out. I've also noticed that between 2-3 the car tends to want to rev up to 4k RPM before shifting (even when I'm barely on the gas), but based on the responses on this site I believe this is normal behavior for the Type-S. I find it a bit annoying, but apparently that's just the way things are.

I will continue to monitor my shifting, but otherwise loving the car.
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Old 08-28-2018, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rightwinger59 View Post
I ordered them from acuraoemparts.com in June. It was $56.55 for each sensor and $2.57 for each gasket. That website also gives you a 5% discount for using "Acurazine" as a promo code (at least I think that was the code I used), so the parts were $174.44 after shipping.

I should take this time to report that even after replacing the ATF with Redline Type-F fluids and swapping out the sensors there are still some clunky shifts. Driving a 2008 TL Type-S with almost 80k miles on it currently. One time, while coasting to a stop, one of the downshifts was so hard that it felt like I had hit something. That only happened once, but still sorta freaked me out. I've also noticed that between 2-3 the car tends to want to rev up to 4k RPM before shifting (even when I'm barely on the gas), but based on the responses on this site I believe this is normal behavior for the Type-S. I find it a bit annoying, but apparently that's just the way things are.

I will continue to monitor my shifting, but otherwise loving the car.
Thanks again! Just wondering if there's an equivalent of acuraoemparts.com here in canada? looking to purchase these switches in the next few weeks!
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:06 PM
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Have you tried the ECM / Memory reset? I know a lot of folks don't believe in it, but every time I do it I notice a huge difference in shifting. I do it at least once a week.
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Old 09-30-2018, 02:02 PM
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Does anyone know a place where I can get this done near in the NYC area? Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2018, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by natehong View Post
Does anyone know a place where I can get this done near in the NYC area? Thanks!
Acura Dealer


or go onto yelp.com and find a mechanic.
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:14 PM
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New to Forum . Thank you for all the info !
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Old 03-29-2019, 04:38 PM
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Can I use this info to work in my 07 TL???
Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs View Post
This is also posted in the original 3rd and 4th gear thread but it is easier to have it separated. By now a lot of us have learned that the position of the switches in the 07-08 TL differ from the 04-06 TL. I used the information that was posted by JDM RICe. His pics are a lot better than mine so I stole some of them.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showp...&postcount=195

Mods....if you disagree with having a separate thread, please feel free to delete this one.

I have driven the car for about 12000 miles since I replaced the switches. I have also done a total of three 1x3 over a 15K mile stretch. The transmission shifts a lot cleaner than when I purchased the car.

Parts Needed:

2 x 28600-RKE-004
1 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A00

Parts were purchased from www.oemacuraparts.com.

Tools:

Floor Jack - DO NOT SUPPORT THE CAR WITH JUST THE FLOOR JACK.
Jack Stands
10 mm Socket
7/8 Deep Socket
Screwdrivers
Breaker Bar (PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN USING BREAKER BAR)

I started with the sensor on the bottom of the transmission.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM RICe


I accessed the sensor through the driver side wheel well. Remove tire. Please use jack stands for support.



Once the cover was moved you will see a wire harness and a couple plugs.

Attachment 51653

I unplugged the ones marked above and when you move the harness out of the way you will see the sensor.

Attachment 51654

Be careful when removing the sensor. I used a deep 7/8 socket and a 16 inch extension. I did not need to use a breaker bar for this sensor. When you remove the sensor there will be some transmission fluid that leaks out. Wipe clean before replacing the sensor.

DO NOT FORGET THE GASKET.

Attachment 51655

Plug everything back in and DOUBLE CHECK before mounting the wheel and lowering yourcar.

Second one I did was the one under the intake. Removing the intake is simple. My pics sucked again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM RICe





This one was very simple. I did not need to remove the 10 mm bolts above, but it will not hurt to remove them. Again I used a 7/8 deep socket and a 3 inch extension. I did use a breaker bar for this one.

The last one I did was the sensor in the back of the transmission.



I removed the hose in the image below to get a bit more room to get my hands down to the sensor. It is tough to see in the pics but that sensor is about 12 inches from the top of the engine.

Attachment 51656

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM RICe


Overall it took me about 2 hours to replace the three sensors. I also did a 1x3 this weekend.

I drove about 150 miles since I replaced the fluid and the sensors. The up and down shifting is a lot smoother than before. When I floor it the shifting is a lot cleaner. I have 2 long road trips this week and I will have a better chance to test it out.
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:59 AM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by kevin figueroa View Post
Can I use this info to work in my 07 TL???
Well the title says that this DIY is for 2007 through 2008 so as long as 07 falls in that range, I think you'll be safe.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:47 PM
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Talking

Originally Posted by thoiboi View Post
Well the title says that this DIY is for 2007 through 2008 so as long as 07 falls in that range, I think you'll be safe.
Sure?? I mean about being safe...
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Old 04-18-2019, 03:46 PM
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So i did this as a preventive maintenance and i must say i have not noticed much difference, other than a slight mental confidence placebo effect.
I still have a slight kick between 2nd and 3rd that i was hoping to get rid of. From 3rd to 4th it's slightly smoother, but even then im not sure if its in my head.

So overall, i would recommend it if you have extra money laying around, otherwise i would wait for a code to appear.

Thanks for the good write-up!
Maz
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Old 05-01-2019, 12:47 PM
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After about 11K miles and 7 months of ownership I finally got around to replacing the switches on my '08 type-s. It shifts much smoother now, a night and day difference for me. It's still shifts a little slow but over all it's much improved. I replaced 3 quarts of ATF back in the fall and another 3 last weekend when i did the switches, so that helped too. Thanks to everyone for the great DIY! I definitely took my time to get this done, lots of patience need.



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Old 05-27-2019, 10:20 PM
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Has anybody done this PM and had it cause a CEL to come on? I've successfully replaced the 2nd and 4th gear switches with no issues (these are the most upward and rearward to the firewall switches) but when I replaced the 3rd gear switch (most forward and lowest) I get the typical P0848 code and a blinking "D" lol. I thought I must've received a lemon of a switch so I reordered but got the same result. When I put the original back in the CEL/Blinking d go off.

I've also done 2x3 with Amsoil super shift so far. I will wait to do a third drain/fill.

My car: 2008 TL Type-S, 5AT of course.

The 3rd gear pressure switch Part Number I am using is: 28610-RKE-004. It has a clear difference from the original in my trans...the oil pressure orifice is larger in diameter. I have a picture of them side by side but am having trouble uploading, I'll try again tomorrow from a desktop.

I hadn't thought to try a trans ecu reset when I had the new "faulty" switch in but may try that when I have the time.

Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 05-27-2019, 11:30 PM
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As a forum newbie, I can't edit my existing posts so here is the promised picture in a new reply: It also appears that the oem replacement reaches deeper into the transmission. Does anybody know if this was a superceeded part? if so, perhaps I can find a "new old stock" of the original part number that will work. Again, I've purchased and tried the OEM replacement twice now, both with the same outcome...P0848 cel and blinking "D". both go away once the original is put back in.


Original on left, OEM replacement on right.

Original on left, OEM replacement on right.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Wild West View Post
As a forum newbie, I can't edit my existing posts so here is the promised picture in a new reply: It also appears that the oem replacement reaches deeper into the transmission. Does anybody know if this was a superceeded part? if so, perhaps I can find a "new old stock" of the original part number that will work. Again, I've purchased and tried the OEM replacement twice now, both with the same outcome...P0848 cel and blinking "D". both go away once the original is put back in.


Original on left, OEM replacement on right.

Original on left, OEM replacement on right.

That replacement you have does not look like a Honda part. Where are you buying your switches and do they come in a Honda parts bag? I ordered my switches form a online Acura dealer (one of the vendors here) and received them in Honda parts bags and were identical to the old part. Once installed I've had no issues. I believe some in this thread had a blinking D if one of there switches was not plugged in. My guess is that switch is both an aftermarket switch as well as one designed for a different transmission.


EDIT: The switch in question should be 28600-RKE-004, I think it actually looks like one for the Honda Odyssey transmission

Last edited by bitterbuffalo; 05-28-2019 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 05-29-2019, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bitterbuffalo View Post
That replacement you have does not look like a Honda part. Where are you buying your switches and do they come in a Honda parts bag? I ordered my switches form a online Acura dealer (one of the vendors here) and received them in Honda parts bags and were identical to the old part. Once installed I've had no issues. I believe some in this thread had a blinking D if one of there switches was not plugged in. My guess is that switch is both an aftermarket switch as well as one designed for a different transmission.


EDIT: The switch in question should be 28600-RKE-004, I think it actually looks like one for the Honda Odyssey transmission
Both replacements have been purchased from eBay, were advertised as OEM Honda and came in OEM Packaging. Pictured below is both replacements and only one of the bags. They are identical with the exception of the printed numbers on the sides. One says "BH113" and the other says "BP906". All of the acura online sites (2008 TL Type-S) reference the switch in question as "reference 14" with part number 28610-RKE-004.

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Old 05-29-2019, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Wild West View Post
Both replacements have been purchased from eBay, were advertised as OEM Honda and came in OEM Packaging. Pictured below is both replacements and only one of the bags. They are identical with the exception of the printed numbers on the sides. One says "BH113" and the other says "BP906". All of the acura online sites (2008 TL Type-S) reference the switch in question as "reference 14" with part number 28610-RKE-004.
Yeah, my bad thatís correct part. Iím not sure why youíre having trouble then.
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Old 05-30-2019, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bitterbuffalo View Post
Yeah, my bad thatís correct part. Iím not sure why youíre having trouble then.
No problem, I appreciate your input anyway.

I think I'll swing by a dealership and ask some questions there. I'll update here on the change anyone in the future has a similar issue.
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Old 05-31-2019, 12:16 PM
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Hey Wild Wild West,

I'm glad you brought this up. I've replaced the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches on my 2005 Acura TL in the past and I was the one who forgot to plug in the switch. After I did that the problem went away .

Ironically, I replaced the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear pressure switches on my wife's 2007 Acura RDX last weekend and am also getting the blinking "D" and P0848 code.

My wife's 2007 Acura RDX uses the same 3rd gear pressure switch that you are having troubles with (Part 28610-RKE-004). I also bought an "OEM" pressure switch on ebay with the exact same packaging. Even though it's bubble wrapped with a Honda sticker, I think it's a fake after seeing your post. If you refer to my images below, you will see several Honda parts that I purchased with the three pressure switches. Two switches came from amazon (28600-RKE-004) and one came from ebay (28610-RKE-004). The one from ebay came in the bubble wrap while the others came in sealed Honda bags. The two gaskets that I purchased and the five rubber O-rings also came in sealed Honda bags. Now that I think of it, I the two other pressure switches also came with a plastic insert that was plugged into the electrical connector to avoid damaged prongs. The ebay switch did not have a plastic insert. (Please note that the crush washers are held in a ziplock bag because I lost the original packaging a year ago. these were OEM washers).



Here is a side-by-side comparison (old on left, new one on right). When I put the "old" OEM switch in, the code goes away completely. When I put the new switch in, the code comes back. Ironic? Probably not. I think you and I both got duped. Let me know what the dealer says!

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Old 05-31-2019, 12:19 PM
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Okay, I'm having an epiphany moment!

I'm not sure who you bought your faulty pressure switch through on ebay, but here is a screenshot of my purchase from last fall. Given the fact that the prices was near $30 as opposed to $50, I should have known this was probably was too good to be true despite having excellent reviews on ebay.


I believe this is how the pressure switch SHOULD come packaged (You will note the sealed Honda bag AND plastic insert that I mentioned previously):


Last edited by wusty23jd; 05-31-2019 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by wusty23jd View Post
Okay, I'm having an epiphany moment!

I'm not sure who you bought your faulty pressure switch through on ebay, but here is a screenshot of my purchase from last fall. Given the fact that the prices was near $30 as opposed to $50, I should have known this was probably was too good to be true despite having excellent reviews on ebay.


I believe this is how the pressure switch SHOULD come packaged (You will note the sealed Honda bag AND plastic insert that I mentioned previously):

Sons of bitches. I also felt like my price was too good to be true. I paid $35.95 for the first one from ebayer "kkonetoys" and paid $17.99!!! the second time from ebayer "smitten-us".

Yeah, my switches looked rough out of the package, not all shiny like that. I'm going to visit the dealer tomorrow if anyone has one in stock. I'll take notes/pictures and let you know what happens... Thanks for posting, this looks like some light at the end of the tunnel.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
first p switch.pdf (512.2 KB, 6 views)
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Old 06-01-2019, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by wusty23jd View Post
Okay, I'm having an epiphany moment!

i believe this is how the pressure switch SHOULD come packaged (You will note the sealed Honda bag AND plastic insert that I mentioned previously):
You were correct.

I visited the dealer today to compare an Acura Dealer OEM vs the ebay "OEM". Pictures below. (Acura dealer on the left, ebay knockoffs on the right).

Above is the Acura dealer bagged item. Not even close to the packaging used with the eBay knockoff units.


Dealer Left, eBay knockoff on right.


Dealer Left, eBay knockoff on right. The dealer unit came with a plastic cap in the plug to protect it while the eBay knockoffs did not.


Above: Dealer Left, eBay knockoff on right. Look how much nicer the dealer unit is. The eBay knockoff is a dirty steel with some pitting in it...it looks terrible relative to the dealer purchased solenoid. The Dealer unit is clean and shiny, Likely an aluminum-alloy. The dealer unit was noticeably lighter than the eBay knockoff as well.


Above: Dealer Left, eBay knockoff on right. Note the differences in shape and how different the size of the orifices are! When you look into the holes (couldn't get a picture), the dealer unit has a fancy purple pressure membrane whilst the eBay knockoff has a yellow/orange membrane (it has been used, my ATF may have changed the color a bit).

I went back to research the eBay sellers (smitten-us and kkonetoys) I'd purchased the "OEM" (actually knockoffs) units from and they are both members based out of China despite shipping from the US. Click on an eBayers username and it will land on a page with where they are based. Hopefully that will help avoid this issue for others in the future.

So there you have it people. There are Knockoff/Imitation Transmission Pressure Solenoid Switches coming out of China.
I did purchase the unit from the dealer, installed and drove...no issues unlike the eBay knockoffs. 3rd gear feels so much smoother now. I had purchased 2nd and 4th gear from a dealer so I of course never had issues with those. I will be in touch with the eBay sellers and with Acura/Honda Brand Protection Department.

An aside I learned at the dealership: The solenoids original part number has been changed over time. It was originally 28600-P7Z-003 then became 28600-P7Z-013 before becoming its current 28610-RKE-004.
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Old 06-01-2019, 05:20 PM
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Well, I am very glad that you were able to figure it out. Some people out there are just scum. This just goes to show that you can't always trust positive reviews. Sure, if you bought a set of "OEM" brake pads, you might not notice a difference. However, electrical components are a different story. The TL's computer is too smart to know when an inferior/non-functioning part is installed.

I messaged my eBay seller last night and here is the chain:

New message from: bloomsunshine (1,712)

Dear customer
Don’t worry , we will solve the problem with you
We can confirm that it is genuine part.
We sold many and never have problem with other customer.
Could you please provide me more detail your car your old part number?
We want to confirm that it fits your car or not
Waiting for your reply
Regards
Jenney


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Hi there,

This item does not appear to be an OEM part, despite being advertised as one. The packaging does not come in a Honda sealed bag and there was no plastic insert covering the electrical connector. Despite seeing these noticeable differences, I went ahead and installed the pressure switch into my vehicle. Instantly I received the dreaded blinking "D" light and engine diagnostic code P0848. As soon as I swapped it with my old pressure switch, the error codes went away.

I know the 30 day window has lapsed, but my maintenance got very behind schedule. If possible, I'd like to return this for a refund.

Thanks in advance for your consideration.

Kind regards,

Josh
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:46 PM
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Your seller is also based in China. I read through their negative feedback for the last year...5 claims of receiving knockoffs. My sellers are similar.

I've gotten in touch with Acura. I'll give them your sellers info when they call back.
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:59 AM
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I bought all 3 of my switches from Acurapartswarehouse and they came in the same package from the above supposed eBay "knockoffs". I compared all 3 of them upon replacement and they were identical with no obvious differences in design or material. Car shifts just fine. But regardless of packaging, I would never buy any auto parts off of eBay, especially if it is not from a private source.
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Old 06-04-2019, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tpz76 View Post
I bought all 3 of my switches from Acurapartswarehouse and they came in the same package from the above supposed eBay "knockoffs". I compared all 3 of them upon replacement and they were identical with no obvious differences in design or material. Car shifts just fine. But regardless of packaging, I would never buy any auto parts off of eBay, especially if it is not from a private source.
Where the switches themselves a dirty steel color or shiny aluminum?
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Old 06-05-2019, 11:19 PM
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they were shiny, they looked just like the above "dealer" parts. I would not have installed them had they looked like the dirty steel color.
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tpz76 View Post
they were shiny, they looked just like the above "dealer" parts. I would not have installed them had they looked like the dirty steel color.
That would be the important difference, the material design of the part. So perhaps the dealer has used multiple packaging designs, good to know. I hear you on the eBay parts though, it only gets riskier everyday.
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Old 06-09-2019, 02:37 PM
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I received my new transmission pressure switch from the Delray Acura yesterday. Not to my surprise, it came in a sealed "Honda" bag and the plastic connector was also present.






Here are some comparison shots. From left to right (Old OEM, New OEM, eBay Knockoff)






After installing the new switch, there were no CELs, no blinking "D", and the shifts are smooth. This was probably my first and last bad experience with eBay after buying "OEM" automotive parts. I've used eBay for nearly 10 years now without any major issues. I usually make sure to buy only OEM parts from top-rated sellers with excellent reviews. However, my due diligence wasn't enough this time and I paid the price after buying a faulty switch from a impostor. I won't make that mistake again.
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