Just did mine the other day. Not too bad of a job. Half the work is getting the intercooler off and getting the coil pack wiring harness out of the way. All in all took me about 6 hours and I could probably do it faster next time.

At just over 203k miles (and with the last valve adjustment done by the dealer @ 110k), all my intake valves were within spec but all my exhaust valves were too tight. I could barely get the .008" feeler gage under the valve lashes on the exhaust side despite the spec being .011" to .013" so this was a needed service. I'm pretty sure the old valve cover gasket also had a small leak.

It definitely helps to have angled feeler gauges and one of those jam nut/screwdriver tools that lets you hold the screw in place while loosening and tightening the jam nuts. I also replaced all the spark plug well seals (a seal puller tool is needed here) and the rubber grommet/washer things that go under the nuts holding the valve cover down.

After re-assembly I got a P0238 code at first, but realized I hadn't tightened down the two 10mm bolts holding down the bypass valve. After tightening those the code went away. Phew.

 

Good job, a lot of times you read you don't have to adjust your valves unless they're noisy. It's the valves (exhaust) that aren't making any noise that should of concern and adjusted.

 

Yup - valves are somewhat noisier after the adjustment. I can hear them tapping at idle now.

 

It's better if you can hear some tapping, the worse thing is to lose all valve clearance and burn a valve, which would most likely be an exhaust valve. The good thing tough is Honda/Acura engine valves seem to hold the correct clearances for a lot of miles if adjusted properly from the beginning.