I have Performance Friction on there now.. they were good at first.. but have about 40K on them and fell a little weak. I have yet to inspect but with 100K on the clock I want to look into replacing the front rotors and pads/.
What do you all run?

 

Search this forum on your question and you will find no consensus. Rather, you'll find a bewildering, and conflicting array of opinions. In the end, it gave me such a headache that I just stayed OEM. Just fine for my needs anyway.

 

autozone durlast gold cmax's are great.
Ive used them for TL's, RL's, TSX's, Kia Optima's and Kia sportages.


but like Kaputnik stated; you cant go wrong with OEM.
as there ARE SO MANY FREAKIN options its not even funny.

any set of pads and rotors will stop your car, as tires are more important for actual traction and shorter stopping distances.

i suggest going with a ceramic pad to keep dust down

 

I changed my pads out last year and just kept it OEM. I do a lot of hwy driving and pretty much got around 100,000 miles on my TSX and RDX with OEM pads. On second set of OEM for both TSX and RDX. I only had to turn the rotors once for both cars because of vibration during high speed braking only.

I would only upgrade the rotors if you wanted to change the "look" with cross drilled and/or slotted rotors. That is all you will be doing if you go that route.

 

I'd love to hear about upgrading just the pads to ceramic pads. Anyone got a good set of recommended ceramic pads? Front and rear or just front?

 

I'm probably going to put these on mine in the spring (along with fresh fluid and possibly braided lines (if anyone makes them for the RDX)).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-4-PERFORMANCE-DRILLED-SLOTTED-BRAKE-ROTORS-AND-8-CERAMIC-PADS-M530506-/400662147200?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2009%7CMake%3AAcura%7CModel%3ARDX&hash=item5d49533080&vxp=mtr
I'm sure you're thinking two things?

1. Ebay brakes?

-This particular rotor/pad combo (from this particular seller) has been used by numerous sports car drivers with great results. I have them on my s2000(pictured), and the difference over OEM (with plenty of life still left) was remarkable. I also used these on my last SUV (4Runner), and the results were even more surprising (especially having drums on the rear).


2. Isn't this overkill for an RDX?

-I'm not overly pleased with the pedal feel of my RDX. The pads/rotors (OEM) have plenty of life. I'm spoiled by the stopping power of my s2000; it can stop so fast that it's physically uncomfortable.


I won't get into the controversy of the merit and durability of slotted and/or cross-drilled rotors. Again, plenty of happy users, many of which have subjected them to far more punishment than they'll see on an RDX (I autocross my s2000).

 

Braided lines for the RDX do exist!

2007-2012 Acura RDX, Techna-Fit Stainless Braided Brake Lines (4) 303004

 

I know what you mean about the S2000, since I have one myself. But look at the size of those rotors, and in a very lightweight car!

I find the OEM brakes on the 1st Gen RDX are fine for me, as long as I keep it in perspective. I drive it mellow anyway. I spent so much time doing research that in the end I was not convinced there were much better options than stock for routine daily driving (other than overkill custom BBK or something). So I stuck with OEM - replaced my pads, had the rotors resurfaced at a local machine shop ($50 for all four) and bled the brakes, all told about $150 since I installed myself. They seem to do the job well and very quietly, keeping in mind we do know this is not a great brake set up to start with.

The new RDX is much better though. I nearly put the salesman through the front windshield a couple of times when I test drove a 2015 RDX.

Yes, a few companies make stainless steel lines for the RDX.

 

Yea.. That eBay sale looks decent. But I'm not going to get cross drilled and or slotted. Maybe some good stock blanks with a brand name ceramic pad such as ebc or ??

 

Jdrum, do the stock brakes cause the ABS to kick in (if the answer is no, then you may have other issues). My point being, if you want increased stopping power, a brake upgrade along won't do the trick. You're going to want to upgrade traction (aggressive all-seasons or even summer tires) and suspension (stiffer, lower springs). Any weight reduction is useful as well, although hard to do without sacrificing some other function of the car...but if you're used to the S2k, you can always ditch the back seat!

 

I'm certain that my braking system is healthy (ABS works just fine).

Given that my s2000 served as my daily driver for a year, my point of reference is unfairly skewed. The s2000 will stop on a dime (and scrape bottom trying to go over it).

The RDX will never stop the same (it's deceptively heavy for it's size), but if I can get it a bit closer, then I'll be happy.

 

Actually, what would be the correct strategy to test the ABS? I have not tried to activate it since changing pads and fluid. I suppose this means slamming on the brakes someplace safely going around 40 mph or so?

 

Pretty much, yeah. Always good to test it in such a fashion than to find out the hard way.

 

Akebono is what I use.

 

I used Raybestos "advanced technology" pads and rotors. Great quality for the price from a reputable american based company, included various hardware bits. Seems to work as good or better than OEM so far.

 

Be the first RDX with an RL bbk

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-par...lipers-930454/

 

OP Jake: I put bear claw rotors and performance friction pads on our roadster at about 60k mi and now at 125k and many auto-X days, they still stop great and have quite a bit of pad left.

You probably already know that with performance friction pads you have to always warm up the breaks before they work their best. Every time they cool off.

The most important thing is how you break in your brakes.

If you are starting with a new car (or putting both new rotors and pads on a used car) during the first 500 miles brake as gentle as possible.

Then "season the rotors and bed the pads" to get the max performance and life from your brakes.

The Baer recommended procedure was adapted in this auto blog...

Seasoning your brake rotors is an essential part of preparing your brake system for heavy-duty or high-performance braking.

In the interest of keeping yourself safe and maximizing the life of your brake rotors, completing a thorough seasoning procedure after installing your new rotors is strongly recommended.

You should season your brake rotors before bedding in your brake pads. Though the two procedures are relatively similar, they are done for different reasons.

Where bedding your brake pads is about properly transferring pad material to your rotors and cooking out resins used in the brake pad manufacturing process, seasoning your brake rotors is about burning machine oils from the rotor surface and establishing a wear pattern between the pad and rotor. Most importantly, seasoning your rotors is about relieving internal stresses within the metal that makes up your rotor. (Read How to Choose Aftermarket Brake Rotors here.)

The experts at Baer compared it to pouring water into a glass of ice and seeing the ice crack as a result. That is internal stress in action.

“By gradually heating the material, the crystalline matrix will reconfigure to relieve these internal stresses,” according to Baer’s online tech center. “After these stresses are relieved, the rotor is ready to accept the heat of bedding pads. Heating the rotors before they are fully seasoned can result in material deformation due to the unrelieved internal stresses in the material. This deformation may cause a vibration from the brakes.”

[warning]NOTE: Please do NOT test performance or attempt heavy use of your brakes until the following steps have been taken. [/warning]

How to Season Brake Rotors

From the mad geniuses at Baer

1. Use the vehicle for five or six days of gentle driving, using the brakes to the same extent you would in typical driving conditions.

[important]NOTE: Zinc-plated rotors require a couple extra days of driving to wear through the plating before the rotor-seasoning process can begin.[/important]

2. After finding a safe location to drive your vehicle as fast as 70 miles-per-hour, perform four regular stops—from 60-70 miles-per-hour down to complete stops as you would during normal driving conditions.

3. Next, perform medium-effort partial stops (about 50 percent) from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Once completed, drive for five minutes with little to no braking, allowing your rotors to cool.

4. Next, perform four medium- to hard-effort partial stops (about 75 percent), from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Once completed, drive for 10 minutes with little to no braking, letting your rotors cool.

5. Park the car and let your brakes cool overnight. According to the experts at Baer, you’re now 50-percent complete with the seasoning process. To finish the job, you’re going to essentially repeat the procedure from the day before.

6. Return to your safe location for driving as fast as 60 miles-per-hour. Next, perform medium-effort partial stops (about 50 percent) from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Once completed, drive for five minutes with little to no braking, allowing your rotors to cool.

7. Next, perform four medium- to hard-effort partial stops (about 75 percent), from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Once completed, drive for 10 minutes with little to no braking, and let your rotors cool off.

8. Finally, make six hard partial stops, from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Make every effort to perform these stops without locking your wheels. When you’re done, drive for 10 minutes with little to no braking, allowing your rotors to cool.

9. One more time, park your car and let your brake system cool overnight.

If you just installed new brake pads as well, you are now ready to bed-in your brake pads. You can read our How to Bed-In Brake Pads post here.

How to Bed-In Brake Pads

How to Season Brake Rotors

 

Thanks for all the reply's guys!

I was looking into these..

Premium Brake Rotors by EBC Brakes

Does the Black GEOMET coated discs turn silver or do they stay black for the life of the rotor?

 

16" 400mm Rotor!

 

My understanding is that any coated rotor will lose the color in the pad contact area.

 

Stick with stock rotors and pads, great life span and performance. There are a few dealers online to get discounted OEM parts.