scudzuki

They will fix an problem like this for free if there is a tech bulletin on the issue. My 02 TLS had the issue, it was related to pad compund. They cut the rotors and replaced the pads, issue never returned.

I'm not aware of any such issue with the RDX. Really depends on your dealer, whether or not they would call warped rotors on a 15k mile vehicle warranteeable or not.

An aftermarket pad will likely run cooler than OEM so there will be less likelihood of warpage. Usually this is accomplished at the expense of rotor life (more agressive pads that run cooler tend to be more abrasive as well). Given reasonable (50k mile) rotor life that would be a welcome tradeoff. I've encountered fade from repeated high speed stops. That's no time to find out that your braking distance has doubled.

Joe

MattG42C

For what it's worth, my TSX had recurring warped rotor issues, and was covered under warranty until it was over at 50k. Afterwards, they gave me half-price when they turned the rotors. I'm hoping my new RDX does not have that level of rotor problems.

vrflyer

Warping often occurs from improper braking, yes improper braking, which = you the driver.

VeNeNo

iTrader: (1)

Improper how...?

MMike1981

any stainless steel lines out yet? next time mine goes in the shop im doing the pads and lines (if i can find some)

LukeaTron

FYI, the Yellow Stuff pads are higher temp pads than the Green Stuff. The Yellows are intended for use on heavier vehicles that generate more heat faster. The Greens will have faster initial bite in from cold but will be more likely to experience fade as they heat up.

With regards to rotor wear: low dusting pads either stop the car slower or eat the rotor faster. When the pad gets eaten up and small pieces come off making a mess of your wheels, it's taking energy away with it. If they shed material at a lower rate that additional energy needs to go somewhere and it goes into the rotor. More heat = softer rotor = more material being removed from the rotor. Don't expect to magically get better rotor life, less brake dust and improved stopping power from simply replacing the pads. You can only have two of those things at once.

happywithmyrdx

Someone asked earlier about using a c-clamp when switching the brake pads. And the answer is yes, use the old pad and a c-clamp so that both pistons go back evenly into the bore. Since my pads had less than a thousand miles on them, there wasn't too much work putting them back.

And as an update, I've now had the Yellow Stuff on for about 7500 miles, and I stick to my conviction that in my case, I don't need anything else. The brakes are perfect, incredibly predictable without being 'grabby'. I've taken the wheels off a few times to inspect everything, and I don't see or measure anything out of the ordinary. I asked the dealer, they didn't see anything wrong with an aftermarket pad as long as it was not a RACING pad, which would tear up the rotor and wear out faster. Warping was something they would look at if it occurred. However, If warping were to occur, I would just replace them with an aftermarket rotor anyway [such as the EBC]. When I had a Civic, it warped with the stock rotors, but when I upgraded to the better ones [such as EBC] the problem went away. That car went a few hundred thousand miles, so I had time to see if the problem would re-occur. It's not worth it to me to hassle with Acura over rotors, since if they warped once, the odds are they would just warp again, so I tend to be a pragmatist, suck it up, and buy the replacements that work [just like I did with these pads, why keep bitching about how horrible my new car is, when I can fix it for a hundred dollars and really enjoy it]. I know the manufacturer should put out a perfect vehicle, but I think every car has some flaw it seems so I just accept it and thank god that's all that's wrong with it

The dusting with this has been minimal, I would say about half as much as the stock ones. Maybe even a third as much. With the stock wheels, I was washing them about every 400 miles or so, now I don't feel the need to clean them until closer to 2000-2500 miles. And the buildup is also a lighter color, not as black as the stock pads produced.

Someone has also mentioned a few times about the rear fade. I never experience that, and I wonder if it's because the fronts are just doing a better job or better efficiency or something, but I have done some repeated full pedal stops from 70 miles an hour down to about 5 miles an hour [ABS fully engaging, so I know I am stopping quickly] and still don't see it. I think I would need to take it on a road course or have to hit a higher speed to notice it. And, of course, no warping.

737 Jock

If you use stainless steel lines make sure they're grounded to the chassis.

Ungrounded SS brake lines can release jolts of static electricity into the adjacent ABS wiring causing random stabs of one wheel braking. It can be rather unsettling.

VeNeNo

iTrader: (1)

Happy, I'm glad to hear everything is going well but which yellow stuff pads are you using exactly and where did you get them from? I have had some difficulty finding the right yellow pads and want better stopping power asap.

mav238

Some ceramic pads are pretty aggressive on the rotors, not sure about the EBC yellows... I heard that the EBC greens were a little mor gentle on the factory rotors...

Just me, I am going to stay with the Acura factory pads, they do fine for me, as I don't drive aggressive enough to warrant that kind of supercar braking/stopping performance...


If you really want superior instant "STOP NOW!" stopping power, why not just carry an anchor and have it shoot out from the rear of your car into the ground. That should do it...

jcct

Yes, it finally here. I finally received them in the mail last week.

To refresh our memory, I've sent a set of OEM lines to a company in So Cal called Crown as a template to make some stainless-steel braided brakelines for the RDX. Their products are very well-made and has a clear PVC coating on top of the braided stainless-steel. But what makes Crown's brakelines different than the other brands is, they have added a layer of kevlar between the braided stainless-steel and the PTFE as extra reenforcement. And they are DOT-approved.

I will try find time to install them this weekend and take some pictures so the forum can be the judge.

gtrrdx

I just got the yellowstuff pads today. I will take pics of the install and post them. Hope it is not too hard to figure out.

VeNeNo

iTrader: (1)

I just purchased Rotora cross drilled and slotted rotors for the front with the pads to match. After I get them installed I will post pics and reviews of the product. I have about 23k and some warpped stock rotors, I can't wait to upgrade the RDX's biggest flaw.

gtrrdx

Pics of install:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...1#post10185501

wspy

VeNeNo; Please post where you got them there Rotoras

wspy

jcct; Is there a website that we can get those lines? They sound sweet
Will there be any concern about the grounding issue that someone metioned earlier? Something about static electricity building up that might screw with the ABS on occasion?

LuvMyRDX

I had the same issue with my '04 TSX. Wife is hard on brakes, but they kept replacing them as they warped up until we sold it with 30k

gtrrdx

The yellowstuff pads make a world of difference. I don't think there is anything wrong with the RDX brake system other than the weak pads they have installed.

Shoofin

My biggest nit pick on any Honda/Acura model are the brakes. They just suck. The manufacturer does everything to make the car better and faster, but nothing to help you stop quickly. For example, I just read a review on the '09 Fit, one of C&D's complaints were the brakes. Like 197ft from 70-0. SUV's double the size stop better than that. Real disappointment. :thumbsdow

gtrrdx

The only weakness to the brake system is the pads, an easy fix.

GT30RSX

I would really like to know any information on where I could order those stainless steel brake lines as well

Nemeton

Hi all! I use RDX 08 and have the same problems with brakes. I've changed the front pads to EBC GreenStaff... It's much more better now, but I want more.. Did someone changed rear pads on yours RDX? Does it help? And, as I see on the WEB the sets of pads can be same? I mean I can put front one to rear place or cannot?

GOTTSPD

Welcome to the AZ Nemeton. Some folks have used the yellowstuff and have suggested that the greenstuff may not be much of an improvement over stock, but it sounds like your experience is different than that. That's very encouraging to me as I picked up a set of greenstuff pads, but had been reluctant to put them on if the improvement was only marginal. My other car I swap between race pads and street pads and the difference is remarkable....

wspy

The SS brakelines can be ordered from Speed Injected @ 954-214-7481
or 954-454-9697.

They are made to order

Nemeton

Thanks! I"ve read a lot about difference between Green and Yellow Staff on this forum, and decided to put Green one. Exactly it's better than factory's one, but brakes still arent exelent. I want to try with rear pads (why not? ). The questions are:
What do you think, can it helps?
And as I saw in an Internet shops the front pads are fittible to rear nevertheless they're selling special rear pads... Does soneone know, is the front one fittible to rear or not? Because I have one more set of front one.
Thanks a lot

Nyjumpman23

I heard that the Green stuff were pretty simliar to the factory ones, so I went for the Yellows....I just ordered both FRONT & BACK breaks.
HOping to install them soon..hoping for the best.~

Samdog-1

I took a close look at both the YellowStuff and all three versions of the Green (2000, 6000 SUV and 7000 Premium SUV).

The Series 2000 has the highest cold bite. This is important to me because my wife drives the RDX everyday and the brakes are not running at "sporting" temperatures on the drive to work. I want her to have superior stopping power from cold.

I also have used 2000 Green on various sports cars and am pleased with thier hot performance as well.

The EBC Green 2000 is markedly better than the RDX OEM and with less dust. The part number is DP-21743 front and DP 2781/2 rear.

They don't come with new anti-rattle clips so wire brush your old ones and they clean up like new.

I also use CRC Synthetic Brake and Caliper grease (pricey but it's the best).

wspy

What about cross-drilled and slotted rotors? There are quite a few choises on E-bay!

Peanut2004

Sorry to say...the noise (squealing) is going to get worse in the summer...
I don't know what was worse, the breaks squealing or my wife squealing at me to fix the problem...(On a 2001 Accord) I ended up pulling them off and putting OEM back on.

Samdog-1

Yellowstuff are excellent pads but they generate high levels of dust (as much or more than OEM) .

Redstuff is very performance oriented but cold bite is compromised for hot performance.

Greenstuff series 2000 has good cold bite, spirited hot performance and low dust.

Be careful ordering Greenstuff - many web-sites do not indicate which Green they are selling. The series 6000 SUV and series 7000 Premium SUV are NOT performance pads. They are meant for long life, quiet operation and low dust for owners of CR-Vs and such.

Perfect Brakes sells the series 2000 Greenstuff for the RDX and clearly indicates the part number.

Nyjumpman23

I went for the yellow..just waitin for the Rear ones to get send to me..
anyone change both FRONT & REAR? and tell us how the performance on braking has increased or decreased? better or worse?

wspy

How did these turn out? Got any pics?

VeNeNo

iTrader: (1)

They turned out great wspy. I have had them for about 4 months now and they are my most functional mod to date! The rotora pads and cross drilled/ slotted discs not only look great but give me a lot more confidence knowing I have the bite to stop our 4000 lb cuv once I get her going. I only ordered the front discs/pads to save money and since about 80% of the breaking is done in the front; rear still stock. I will eventually purchase the rear set to match all four corners, more aggressive pads in the rear should help something even if it isn't much. I will take some pics and post after a nice wash.

I purchased them from excelerate performance a vendor here on the zine, shoot him a message if your interested.

I seriously recommend this simple mod if you are a performance oriented RDX owner.

wspy

I wanted to get the Rotoras but could'nt find the $s, so I went with some SS brake lines and YellowStuff pads!

Samdog-1

Update

The EBC Green 2000 has been on the car for about 2000 miles now. They were noisy (occasional grinding, scraping and um...moaning) for about the first 200 miles. But the "Break-in Coating" cleaned up the rotors vey nicely and the brakes are absolutely quiet now, with much improved cold bite and excellent fade resistance.

Don't judge the performance of any new pads until they have been bedded (heat cycled) properly and been in service for at least 300 miles.

Samdog-1

Also, the single biggest reason for warped rotors is the shops installing wheels with an air-wrench. They do it to save time, not your rotors.

Air-wrenches typically grossly over torque the lug-nuts and do not apply even torque to all five. Air wrenches can apply hundreds of lb-ft of torque and the RDX spec is only 80 lb-ft.

Uneven and over torqued lug-nuts warp the rotor hat by a few thousandths and then this warp is magnified in the swept area in the form of run-out.

Insist that your shop use hand-held torque wrenches on the lug-nuts. If they scoff at that or tell you torque-sticks are "good enough", find another shop.

MMike1981

how has this setup worked out?

wspy

Havent installed them as yet, but I'll surley post up when I do!

Nemeton

Hello again!
Did someone already put SS brake lines like Crown's one on your RDX? Feel any difference?

Nyjumpman23

Got the YELLOW STUFF on REAR AND FRONT...squeeked for about 350 miles or so.stil does it mildly..but It states give it about 500miles..it's starting to die down..and the brakes are hella respnosive.