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Last year we bought our daughter a 2008 Royal Blue RDX TECH, it's our first turbo and it's been a great little car to run around in and for her to learn to drive with. She turns 16 soon so it will be running around all over the place. We've noticed a few little oddities with it so I thought I'd ask here.
The engine and boost seem to be strong but there is a pretty loud "whoosh" sound when then boost kicks in. I know turbos make this noise but it seems pretty loud, almost like it has a leak somewhere but I assume that is just the normal sound?
It does occasionally have a rough idle, almost like it wants to die, but it never has. Is that most likely just a spark plug issue?
The memory seat settings seem to have a hard time remembering where to go, especially the drivers side mirror. It even moves and "pops" sometimes trying to get where it thinks it needs to be.
When the A/C is on we also hear frequent "groaning" from the drivers side blend door I would assume. Is it easiest to just replace the blend door or try to lubricate it somehow?
I had a 1999 TL for the longest time (currently drive a 12 Merc E350) and my wife currently drives a 14 MDX that other than a shutter coming from the torque converter has been a great car. TIA for any suggestions!
I have an 08 RDX tech with +180,000 miles I handed down to my daughter. She loves driving the RDX; but, hates the mpgs and putting 91 octane in it.
- The "whoosh" sound could be from an engine mod or an issue? I have Hondata ECU reflash and ETS intercooler and never hear a "whoosh" at any boost level.
- The rough idle could be from spark plugs, injectors, coil pack, plug wires, aftermarket engine mod,.... Might have to let someone take a look.
- The mirror "pop" is from needing to be lubricated. My 11 MDX passenger side mirror did the same and would get stuck and I would have to manual move it. I didn't have issues with the memory seats in my 08 RDX; but, I did in my 11 MDX. My 11 MDX would only move a little bit into position and I would have to hit the memory button 2-4 times to move it into my driving position. Sometimes the memory seat light in my MDX would be off and it would only move manually. Problem always happens when my 12v battery was low from sitting too long. Zero issues with my 11 MDX memory seats with a properly charged battery.
I have the same "groan" with the blend door for almost 7 years on my RDX. Fixed it once at the dealership way back when and it just came back a few months. I learned to ignore the sound when I had the RDX and my daughter does the same.
sounds good, thanks. No engine mods that I am aware of or have noticed. I'll probably have a shop check the plugs, belts, fluids, etc., before she becomes the primary driver of it and see if they think there is a leak or some other issue with the turbo.
Check to see if the air filter is dirty to the point where it's restricting air flow as well. Takes 2 mins and could definitely impact your idle smoothness. Turbo is definitely not as quiet on this car as most newer cars, but I've also driven some that are louder. You should hear it primarily in the 2500-3500 rpm range when under boost. I have a K&N filter to replace the oem paper filter, and that also allows a little more noise from the turbo.
replaced air filter, added some injector cleaner, still getting some rough idle occasionally. I'd hate to have a shop check the plugs only to find out they are fine, that is a lot of work just to check them.
I waited until the 100,000 miles service to change my plugs on my 06 TSX and 08 RDX. I noticed a little more power on the butt dyno and improved hp/mpg after the change for both vehicles. I think I got back some lost power with the old plugs. Changing out the plugs would be a good way to see the health of each cylinder. Some DYI folks noticed 1-2 plugs were extremely loose when they changed them out. Going to be due for new plugs anyways in about 15,000-20,000 miles (about 1 year of mileage for me pre-COVID).
I put in a set of cheap Autolites in mine and the idle went to crap. Replaced them with NGKs and everything went back to normal. Rock solid idle with zero issues. For some reason, this car seems to be overly sensitive to lower quality plugs.
so we're still getting occasional rough idle after replacing the air filter. Is there a way to isolate if it is a spark plug issue or a coil issue? I'd hate to spend the money to replace the coils if it isn't needed.
so we're still getting occasional rough idle after replacing the air filter. Is there a way to isolate if it is a spark plug issue or a coil issue? I'd hate to spend the money to replace the coils if it isn't needed.
Have you verified the elbow connected to the airbox isn't ripped? It's a very common failure point and will cause idle issues.
If it's not the elbow, I would just throw $175 at it and replace the plugs and coils. RockAuto.com has Delphi coils for $32 and NGK plugs are 8 or 9 bucks a piece.
When I replaced the air filter I didn't notice any rips in that hose but I'll double check. Yeah, at 185,000 miles I have no idea if'/when the plugs or coils were replaced last. I guess it can't hurt to do it right since it is a one-time job for the most part.
so I was almost ready to buy some plugs and coils but decided to check the air intake hose one more time. Sure enough, two splits in the hose, one almost completely around it. Ordered a new one, patched the old one up with duct tape and no more rough idle, no more noisy turbo! Thanks for the suggestion Matt!
so I was almost ready to buy some plugs and coils but decided to check the air intake hose one more time. Sure enough, two splits in the hose, one almost completely around it. Ordered a new one, patched the old one up with duct tape and no more rough idle, no more noisy turbo! Thanks for the suggestion Matt!
That's good news!
Was the turbo noise happening when you let off the accelerator or when you were on the accelerator? If fixing the intake hose got rid of a turbo noise when accelerating, then you should probably check your bypass valve. If you had a noise (a loud whoosh) when letting off the gas, then that would make sense as the bypass releases into that hose or just after (can't recall exactly).
Was the turbo noise happening when you let off the accelerator or when you were on the accelerator? If fixing the intake hose got rid of a turbo noise when accelerating, then you should probably check your bypass valve. If you had a noise (a loud whoosh) when letting off the gas, then that would make sense as the bypass releases into that hose or just after (can't recall exactly).
-Matt
It only seemed to be loud on acceleration that I recall, it's quiet now all around even with the duct tape temporary fix.
2011 Tech here 62k miles I don't remember how to drive anymore and I will never catch up to Midnight Mystery. On the other hand, going to fill some paint chips in later this week so she looks pretty sitting in the driveway. At least I can't complain about the gas mileage being not so good. Though in reality, I think the new ones with the Turbo are only rated 20/28 as it is with the higher geared transmission. So mine getting 19/24 (though I have gotten 26 to 28 on trips with no lights) isn't that bad. Do you all think I need to do any maintenance on mine coming up on 10 years. Oops, sorry, past 10 years. I have done the fluid changes at least once, but seriously, I have put 27k miles on it since purchasing in March 2014. Should I change the plugs? Will I even get them out. Though I may only keep the car one more year or so. Maybe just keep it the way it is, and put 2k more miles on it.
2011 Tech here 62k miles I don't remember how to drive anymore and I will never catch up to Midnight Mystery. On the other hand, going to fill some paint chips in later this week so she looks pretty sitting in the driveway. At least I can't complain about the gas mileage being not so good. Though in reality, I think the new ones with the Turbo are only rated 20/28 as it is with the higher geared transmission. So mine getting 19/24 (though I have gotten 26 to 28 on trips with no lights) isn't that bad. Do you all think I need to do any maintenance on mine coming up on 10 years. Oops, sorry, past 10 years. I have done the fluid changes at least once, but seriously, I have put 27k miles on it since purchasing in March 2014. Should I change the plugs? Will I even get them out. Though I may only keep the car one more year or so. Maybe just keep it the way it is, and put 2k more miles on it.
If you aren't going to keep it much longer I wouldn't put any more money into it.
I did some extra maint and fluid changes on my 08 RDX before handing down to my daughter. It has been just oil changes for the last two years for her since having the RDX. I would do the same with your 11 RDX tech if you are going to hand down/sell to a family member or friend. If not, I would just keep the RDX clean inside and out to get ready for selling.
Changing the oil at least once a year is good practice, even if you don't drive enough miles to trigger the maintenance light. Brake fluid and coolant are also time-sensitive. But the rest is probably fine and should be addressed by mileage vs time.
Thanks all for your responses on the maintenance needs. Oil change is due after one year, and 50% life still left on the oil life gauge. Wife will start driving the car daily once we sell her 2010 Honda CRV, so it will start racking up some miles. Compared to Midnight Mystery and his mileage, mine is a practically not even broken in
I posted this in the oil change thread also but I thought I'd post here. Finished the first oil change, followed instructions to reset the "service due soon A" but the instrument cluster won't do anything. The message just stays there, nothing I do works. Key is in position 2, holding the instrument cluster button or pushing it several times, the message stays the same. I cannot get it to change for anything. HELP. pushing or holding the button on the right, nothing happens to the display.
I posted this in the oil change thread also but I thought I'd post here. Finished the first oil change, followed instructions to reset the "service due soon A" but the instrument cluster won't do anything. The message just stays there, nothing I do works. Key is in position 2, holding the instrument cluster button or pushing it several times, the message stays the same. I cannot get it to change for anything. HELP. pushing or holding the button on the right, nothing happens to the display.
Nevermind, I figured it out. Google was not helpful but the owners manual was!
I considered that but I also had a Camshaft code and an ecm code as well as ticking
Ah, yeah, definitely a little something extra going on. At your miles it could be the tensioner is just done and maybe the chain skipped a tooth or two. Hopefully nothing *too* serious.