OK. I give. The manufacturer of the vehicle says "NO", the manufacturer of the oil says "NO", a certified passenger car lubrication specialist says "NO" and you still insist. At this point, due diligence has been practiced.

Enjoy the RDX, it is a great automobile ... or is it? After all, the engineers that designed it aren't good enough to choose the correct oil specification.

Sorry about the cynicism, it leaks out when I have a deaf audience.

 

Why are you using a 0w-30 oil? Please tell us.

Also why not include actual values for the flash points instead of greater than sign and 200f? (>200f)
You make them look equal, even though they are not.

Please share the specific Castrol PDS info.

Properties (From exxon mobil website)

Mobil 1 5W-30


Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 11.0
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 61.7
Viscosity Index 172
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 0.8
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.1
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -42
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
Density @15.6 ºC, mg/l (ASTM D4052) 0.855

Typical Properties

Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy

Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.9
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 62.9
Viscosity Index 166
Phosphorous (ASTM D4951) 0.065
Sulfated Ash, wt%, (ASTM D874) 0.9
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.0
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 226
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -50
Total Base Number (ASTM D2896) 9.1
MRV @ -40 ºC (ASTM D4684) 13,250
Density @15.6 ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.842

Side note: XLR8R - You must be 6' 3" or 4"?
I'm 6' 2" and my helmet just clears the headliner.

 

The problem is the Castrol Edge 0w30 belongs to the SPT family. The ONLY oil that would be somewhat comparable to HTO-06 would be Castrol Edge 5w30 in the FST family. The difference is that the SPT is a straight Group III synthetic, the FST is a blend of Group III and Group IV (PAO) a "super synthetic" if you will.

However, it isn't our vehicle and he doesn't want the information ... it doesn't fit into his viewpoint.

 

Let's put this into another perspective. Oil companies that also supply gasoline are creating a product in collaboration with Acura. First if I believed in conspiracy, and I don't, I could see a connection with oil companies trying yo destroy my investment. Which is highly unlikely, but is your oil as efficient as the other with out sacrificing so called "protection?" Prolly not my break in period and shortly afterwards was the only time I used M1 or HTO-06 oil in my RDX. The like pickler I chose to deviate from the norm, but based on my own personal experiences with a good oil. Can you name another vehicle that runs hto-06 cert oil, this is why I think pickler believes it is bs, prolly more to it,but...

Everyone has their sauces that the like in the RDX. Instead of getting fired up let um try and syn oil changes at early intervals, should be ok.

About the turbo comment, if left to the dealership, you'll get raped in the butt. A good aftermarket turbo will run you less than a $1000. And is completely diy. This is how the stealership will fix the RDX: 1. remove turbo, 2. run turbo thru parts washer if serviceable(which it should be) 3. Reinstall turbo, write ticket and charge for bnib turbo.

I read in another thread/post that DDR's AC compressor is shot, I had the same diagnosis at Acura as well,they won't tell you this but, it turns out all I needed was a field coil and now it's back to normal; another promised thread I have not made good on. A $150 fix.

Anyway with this kind of stuff happening to people everywhere it's not suprising more people everywhere dont get fed up and start complaining on the forums. In a single post WindowLG made mention that these forums are for the enthusiast and their car, that is true.

 

New thing I found out. My Local ack stealerships Disservice departments changed oil over to Quaker state..ALL Vehicles. Lol, Go figure, this thread is pointless now to debate the use of mobile 1 only and or HTO- 06 rating. TG.

I think m1 is good oil, and so is penz plat. However, I use RP for 2 cars and over 12 years.

 

because in winter 0w-30 oil performs better than 5w-30. i Live in canada with -30'c tempratures. 5w-30 oil is hard to start cold. and i was talking about 0w-30 castrol syntec german, not mobil 1.

thanks for the info. i also investigated my dealer and found they are using castrol syntec, just like BMW dealership beside them. So if the dealer doesn't buy mobil 1 why in the blue hell should i? I will stick with my castrol syntec 0w-30 for winter and PP 5w-30 for summer, thank you very much.

 

Will all get to choose our own way. Some good people here are trying to help. Yes, -22f is cold. Too clod for 5w30?

If I wintered in the great white north I'd get a block heater, and use the proper spec'd oil.

Will you be disclosing to perspective buyers the fact that you used non-spec'd oil if/when you sell it?

Happy wintering.

 

I never sell my ride and frankly don't give a damn if a buyer cares what oil I used. take it or leave it. IF THE DEALER USES NON-SPEC WHY SHOULD I?

There are 4 drivers in my household and I run my cars to the ground. Never sold any of my cars, ever. My last car was a Mitsubishi galant from 1994. My dad bought me it new when I was in high school. At one point I ran sardin oil in it when I had no money (too cheap). It was running great until finally tranny gave way and lotta shit started falling off 3 years ago. that was after 14 years of use and +600,000km. I also had a BMW 325i which was totaled. 130,000km on non spec oil. 03 TL ran on non spec ATF still running original transmission. My 135i already takes the oil I prefer, syntec German and PP. both from dealer.

the important thing is the duration of the oil change intervals, not the oil itself. I use maintenance reminder for that.

 

I also get my mobil1 from walmart for $25 and $10 for the M1 filter $35 and most independent shops will charge you around (in my area) $20 if you supply your own oil and filter.

 

damn that's cheap. i haven't seen mobil 1 here under 35$. although i'm no fan of this particular motor oil.

 

To each their own.
Glad you feel you know what is BEST for you and your cars.

No further info or advice needed, as you seem extra wise in these matters.

 

I asked the op what his motivation was for using non-spec oil in post # 42.

Op's response in post # 46...

"because in winter 0w-30 oil performs better than 5w-30. i Live in canada with -30'c tempratures. 5w-30 oil is hard to start cold. and i was talking about 0w-30 castrol syntec german, not mobil 1."

This community is weakened when misinformation becomes confused with facts.

We all like to save money, but using the wrong oil may cost you more in the long run by harming your motor.

A quick check of some of op's history of threads he started regarding using non-spec oil clearly show saving money to be the primary motivation.

The following are posts by the op showing saving money is the motivation...

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-2007-2012-147/quaker-state-advanced-full-synthetic-826285/ Quote..."is this oil safe for my vehicle? it doesn't have ht-06 cert but its on sale my local store and can get 5 quarts for 25$."

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-talk-5/ht-06-certification-826286/ Quote..."my RDX' turbo engine requires HT-06 honda certified synthetic oil. is this really important? reason im asking is because i can get Quaker State Advanced Engine Motor (full synth) for 20$ (5 quarts).

Sorry for being so unkind, but I think this forum becomes less useful when misinformation gets spread to people who may not know any better.


In closing...use the proper spec'd fluids. Look around to find the best price. The money saved by using improperly spec'd oil will not cover the expense of correcting the damage done.

And even though no damage may be apparent, if/when you sell the car and the buyer asks to see your maint records, only a fool or the ill informed would take the risk of buying.

 

Where the hell were you when I was spending so much money on an advanced college degree and numerous certifications to learn the in and outs of lubricants?

Crap!!!!! I could have just purchased a damn adding machine.

 

not sure about in and out of lubricants. but lubricants do help with in and outs of other things.