What do you guys think would be the extent of damage on an improper tow on a SH-AWD system. By improper I mean two wheels on the dolly, car in park and two wheels rolling on the ground. 5 mile distance, speed would at most go up to 40MPH.

Would damage be in the transfer case and/or transmission only, or does the differential sustain damage first or at all. For some reason it doesn't make sense to me that differential could sustain any damage since its made to spin anyway.

I also read that rear wheels are designed to be overdriven with respect to the front wheels. I wonder if this would protect the differential in case of an improper tow since the front wheels would not be spinning.

I would love to hear everyone's opinion or experience with this. All manufacturers have different AWD systems and from research certain ones are more sensitive than others.

 

Why the questions? if you have not already done this, then you know that the Owner Manual says flat-bed tow only, i.e., entire vehicle on the back of a flat bed truck. So why ask "how" any damage could occur? the OM says it can.

If you already did this, then you need to have the vehicle checked by a dealer. Esp. if the vehicle was in park, with the rear wheels on the ground, probably the entire drive train is subject to damage. A tow truck operator should know better, but then, they can't keep track of every vehicle made - its your responsibility to know about your own car.

Sorry, I hope that your vehicle is not damaged - but suggest that you have it checked.

 

This is the worst possible towing configuration. The rear prop-shaft will be unable to rotate, because the parking pawl has locked the transmission.

Because the rear prop-shaft cannot rotate, the damage should be contained within the rear differential. The left/right clutches may take some wear, but can probably survive 5 miles.

If there is damage, it is probably in the SH-AWD overdrive unit, which connects the rear diff to the rear prop-shaft.

Let us know if you get a fault code or have damage.

 

Thank you for a helpful reply, when researching info on this usually people attack the person as if it was done intentionally. Basically my car was in an accident, I had a bad experience with shops so I decided to cash out and repair myself once the shop gave the estimate. However when my vehicle was towed from the body shop to my house it was put on this dolly. The tow company had the best reviews so I called them. The guy asked me if it is AWD and I told him yes. He brings it to me on a dolly and when I asked him if he realizes that the vehicle AWD he says "are you serious, this isn't a Honda CRV?" I said no. He proceeded to tell me that the car was rolling free at the repair shop and that they told him that either something is wrong with the tranny (lie) or that they disconnected something to make it OK to tow. The shop actually took apart the car for damage inspection so the parts weren't even put back on they were thrown in the back. Even my car battery was missing with a bunch of screws nuts bolts and other parts. It was a nightmare. I think it is safe to assume that the car was in neutral when it was put on the dolly since they had to push it on. This was an Acura approved body shop Falconis in Las Vegas NV.

Basically I am getting rough shifts when driving, the code I get is P0962 - ACURA - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (short)

So I am hoping its only the solenoids since my symptoms match the problem. The only thing that worries me is that my paddle shifters are not working at all. I wonder if the solenoids will fix that also? I was doing some research and it said that certain car makers have a fail safe security system to protect the transmission. The computer turns "off" the solenoids to prevent transmission going bad due to a number of things. I wonder if this is possible.

I am also getting some ABS codes, but I am waiting for a friend to put it on his Autel MaxiDAS diagnostics computer to get more info on that. I believe the ABS codes are referring to one of the speed sensors being out.

Tranny doesn't slip, only shifts late and snaps your head back when shifting. I visually inspected the rear differential and brakes and everything is perfect. The SH-AWD is performing according to the instrument screen. I do have a check transmission and flashing D.

I can make the repairs myself with my friend (retired mechanic) but just trying to figure if I should replace the solenoids or the entire transmission. And my main worry is the rear differential, even though everything seems normal with it. I can purchase a used differential for $500.00 which is way better than 3+k at Acura lol.

Thanks any advise is appreciated.

 

The flashing "D" indicates that there is a transmission fault code stored, but of course you already know that.

If it were mine, I would fix the trans solenoids and ABS items. Address and clear the fault codes and see how it goes.

If the SH-AWD screen shows normal operation and there are no system fault codes, you may be ok.

 

This is why I only allow my car to be loaded in my presence - but you will know for next time.

Does PARK still work? that is, does the trans still lock in PARK, which would indicate that the parking pawl is OK.

Both the solenoids and pressure switches can be electrically tested. The pressure switches control the solenoids. The specs are in the FSM.

That would be a result of the failed solenoid(s). Continuing to drive will (further) damage the trans. When the solenoids are bad/ failed, the trans goes into limp mode, and ups the system pressure. I am not a trans mechanic or "expert" by any means, but it is pretty clear from many posts that a trans should not be driven under these conditions.

Well, there is nothing to "visually" check on the SH-AWD unit, without opening the cases, although I suppose you can check for any external damage. Perhaps fix all trans errors and other errors, then see if the SH-AWD unit reports any errors.

 

I found the exact issue. I went to check the solenoid and the connector on it is completely broken off. The solenoid was not working at all. I figured out that they must have broken it at the shop when they were taking parts off. You can clearly see how they broke it with a wrench since it is very tight in there. I wonder if it helps any that the solenoid wasn't connected during the improper tow.

Would you order oem only solenoid? it's a big price difference.

 

Oh and yes the Park works. I am hoping its just the solenoid.

 

I would use the OEM parts its not cheap but remember you pay for quality. once the vehicle is up and running id change the fluids and filters if present associated with the transmission the SHawd and the rear diff. pay close attention to see if there is any chunks in the fluid (bad news) also id stick a magnet in the fluid stream to see if there is suspended steel partials in the various fluids. as far as the transmission going into limp mode it should be fine after the new solenoid is replaced. as long as the fluid was ok. one thing I do know is that when transmissions have nice soft shifts it is harder on them then when its a firm shift hence why shift kits tend to jerk the passengers around more but the transmissions last longer (at stock power levels). good luck with everything and keep us in the loop.