DRL install Question!

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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 07:38 PM
  #1  
Carbon2008RDX's Avatar
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Carbon Bronze Pearl 2008
 
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From: Connecticut
DRL install Question!

Hello. I just bought a pair of PIAA 9005 Super Plasma GT-X bulbs to replace the stock dull looking DRLs. Question: it says I should disconnect the negative battery cable before installation. Is this really necessary or is it just for "safety". Have any of you that have swapped out the stock hi-beam/drl bulbs found a need to disconnect the battery?? Doesn't make sense to me as the power would be of to the socket anyway.

I can understand while doing the HIDs as that's a whole different animal but this is just a simple bulb swap.

Thanks! I plan to install the PIAA this weekend and will try to take some pics.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 11:11 PM
  #2  
CSpaR's Avatar
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From: Colorado
I dont recall ever disconnecting the battery to replace light bulbs. In fact, I just tested some Sylvania SilverStars out and didnt disc connect it.

I think it's just a precautionary thing. I'm not going to go through all that resetting the radio for just a bulb change.

Just be very careful with the bulbs. Do not touch the glass bulb itself. Wear rubber gloves if you need to. If oils from your hands get onto the bulb glass, it can lower the life of the bulb.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 12:45 AM
  #3  
RDXtremist's Avatar
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Originally Posted by CSpaR
I dont recall ever disconnecting the battery to replace light bulbs. In fact, I just tested some Sylvania SilverStars out and didnt disc connect it.

I think it's just a precautionary thing. I'm not going to go through all that resetting the radio for just a bulb change.

Just be very careful with the bulbs. Do not touch the glass bulb itself. Wear rubber gloves if you need to. If oils from your hands get onto the bulb glass, it can lower the life of the bulb.
^ what he said
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 03:09 AM
  #4  
RaffN's Avatar
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I changed my DRL/High beam to PIAA too, and fog lights to HID, and on both occassion I didnt disconnect the battery. I dont like to disconnect my battery because it erase the memory seat settings. But like it was said, Acura just stay that for precaution.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:41 AM
  #5  
littleblazer's Avatar
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From: Philadelphia PA
If You disconnect the battery. you have to do IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE.

Idle Learn Procedure

Description:
The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can set a baseline for engine idle characteristics.
Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these procedures:
Replace or clean the throttle body
Replace the battery
Replace ECM/PCM
Reset ECM/PCM (Scan Tool Clear Command)

Procedure:
Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear window defogger, lights, etc.) are off.
Reset the ECM/PCM with the scan tool.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds.
Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3000 RPM without load (in Park or neutral).
Allow Engine to reach normal operating temperature(cooling fan(s) cycle twice; coolant temp about 194°F (90°C).
Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 08:36 AM
  #6  
CSpaR's Avatar
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From: Colorado
You're kidding! lol

Yet another reason not to disc the battery.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 08:53 AM
  #7  
cwepruk's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
No need to disconnect. Just don't touch the bulb. Some people wipe the bulbs with alcohol just to be safe before install anyways. Worth doing considering how expensive PIAA's are.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 10:51 AM
  #8  
littleblazer's Avatar
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From: Philadelphia PA
DRIVE CYCLE PROCEDURE
2007 ACURA RDX 2.3L L4 DOHC i-VTEC (K23A1) ENGINE

Note: all readiness Codes are cleared when battery is disconnected or ECM/PCM is cleared.

Misfire monitor & readiness code, fuel system monitor & readiness code, comprehensive component monitor & readiness code are always set to available because they are continuously monitored.
To run air fuel ratio (a/f) sensor monitor & readiness code,

Enable criteria: ECT greater than or equal to (>=) 140°F (60°C).

Test drive under stop & go conditions with short periods of steady cruise.

During test drive , decelerate (throttle fully closed) for Five seconds.

If OK, readiness should switch to complete after about 3.5 miles.
To run catalytic converter monitor & readiness.

Enable criteria: ECT >= 158°F(70°C), IAT >= 20°F(-7°C), VSS > 25MPH(40 kmh)

Test drive under stop & go conditions with short periods of steady cruise.

If OK, readiness should switch to passed after about Five miles (8km).
To run EGR monitor & readiness code

Enable criteria: ECT >= 176°F(80°C).

Test drive in d (m/t 4th) at speeds of 52-62 MPH (80-100 kmh) or higher for more than ten seconds.

Decelerate from 62mph(100 kmh) or higher by completely closing throttle for at least Five seconds.

If OK, readiness should switch to complete.
To run EVAP Control system monitor & readiness code, KOER for about one minute. If OK, readiness should switch to complete.

Enable criteria:
Battery voltage above 8.0 volts.
A/t in [n] or [p] with Engine off.
To run air fuel ratio (a/f) sensor heater monitor & readiness code, KOER for about one minute. If OK, readiness should switch to complete.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:20 PM
  #9  
Carbon2008RDX's Avatar
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Carbon Bronze Pearl 2008
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 684
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From: Connecticut
Holy crap!!! Thanks everyone for your input. I will definity NOT be disconnecting the battery for a simple bulb swap. I'll try to be super careful that nothing touches the PIAA bulbs during install. And just as important when removing the stock bulbs so they can be reused if necessary.
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #10  
wspy's Avatar
2008 Acura RDX
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,227
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From: Jamaica W.I.
I aint doin all that when i change the darn battery!!!
Think its a bit of overkill!
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