Hi Guys:

Own a 2010 RDX (first and only owner) and have been following everything in terms of maintenance -- my private mechanic suggested to be on the lookout for radiator failure during my last visit (eg last month) to him but told me not to worry about it for the next year or two.

I didn't know about that as I just had my A1 service last month and coolant flush (10 yrs per OM). Had I known, I wouldve replaced the radiator right then and there and not wasted my coolant flush/replace LOL. Oh well it is what it is. Any other things I need to proactively change for my next service? 11yrs old by 2021 but only 103000kms right now (64500 miles).

He told me next "major" service would be spark plugs etc at 160k kms (100k miles) but I will be visiting him for sure by Nov 2021 (for the usual oil change, etc), which is one year from my last service. (will probably not reach the maintenance minder as we are on lockdown and I will barely hit 5k miles before I need another oil change in the next 11 months or so). I've asked him to buy the radiator for me but what else do I need to do? (by then I'd surmise I'd be at 67-68k miles, 107-108k kilometers). The mechanic is a 50 mile drive one way for me so I wanna get things done proactively as I can't afford the hassle to have to tow it to him (I mean of course things happen but if one can proactively take prevention, why not?)...

PS in case you guys are wondering why so few miles? I usually just do long drives on this vehicle and don't use it on weekends (and sometimes it sits at least a month or two when I'm out of the country on vacation etc)... eg drives CT, Boston, NY from Toronto -- round trip...
Many thanks!

 

Make sure you stay on top of brake fluid changes - every 3 years regardless of mileage. Same with coolant - as little as you drive, you should probably plan for a flush every few years now that the original stuff is gone. Brake fluid absorbs moisture (which can lead to brake failure) and coolant can become corrosive (which can lead to radiator failure, among other things). For everything else you're probably fine sticking with the maintenance minder schedule.

 

Thanks! Yes, Brake fluid change just done also last year... 9 years (Eg every 3, as you said) ... I've followed OM diligently (eg 3 yrs brake fluid, 10 yrs coolant change)... Also did Power Steering "flush" (turkey baster method) around 2 yrs ago too...

A couple of questions:

a) Coolant I read is every 5 yrs after original stuff is gone - should I do every 3 yrs then (I did use Honda fluid bought from dealer, though I guess original fill is still a diff kind)?

b) Would you suggest I replace radiator on next service seeing that I just did coolant flush last month and my miles are still relatively "low" eg <70k miles? Dunno how expensive and how long this'll take for him (I am not really a DIY kinda person, though I did turkey baster method on power steering "flush" a few years back, if that counts LOL)

 

Make it simple. Keep changing a fluid with every service until they're all done, then just set a milage or time limit goal amd change again.

Since it's 10 years old, I'd just say change all fluids.

 

Acura Maintenance Schedule

A - Replace Engine Oil : 7,500 miles
B - Replace Engine Oil & Filter : 7,500 miles
1 - Rotate Tires : 7,500 miles
2 - Replace/Clean Intake Air Filter : 15,00 miles
2 - Replace/Clean Cabin Air Filter : 15,00 miles
3 - Replace Transmission Fluid : 30,000 miles
3 - Replace Transfer Case Fluid : 30,000 miles
4 - Replace Spark Plugs : 30,000 miles
5 - Replace Engine Coolant : 30,000 miles
6 - Replace Rear Differential Fluid : 7,500 miles

- Replace Brake Fluid every 30,000 miles
- Replace Power Steering Fluid every 30,000 miles
- Adjust Valves every 15,000 miles
- Adjust Parking Brake every 30,000 miles
- Align Wheels every 7,500 miles
- Adjust Tire Pressure every 7,500 miles
- Balance Wheels every 7,500 miles
- Clean MAF Sensor every 30,000 miles
- Clean Throttle Body every 30,000 miles
- Clean Radiator Fans every 30,000 miles
- Clean Radiator every 30,000 miles
- Clean Air Condenser every 30,000 miles
- Clean Transmission Cooler every 30,000 miles
- Clean Intercooler every 30,000 miles
- Clean Battery Terminals every 30,000 miles
- Change Tires ever 60,000 miles
- Change Fuel Filter every 60,000 miles
- Clean Out Fuel Injectors every 60,000 miles
- Change Coil Packs every 60,000 miles
- Change Radiator Cap every 60,000 miles
- Lubricate Rubber Components every 60,000 miles
- Car Wash every 1,000 miles
- Clean Carpet every 1,000 miles
- Clean Plastic every 1,000 miles
- Clean Leather every 1,000 miles
- Spray Silicone Lubricant Window Tracks every 60,000 miles
- Change Gas Cap every 60,000 miles
- Change Serpentine Belt every 60,000 miles
- Change Belt Tensioner ever 60,000 miles
- Inspect Engine Idle Speed every 160,000 miles

 

In the RDX, do the oil like every 3-4K miles and only ise Mobile One synthetic with an OEM Honda filter. It's the life of your turbo.

 

Thanks Guys. Yes, I actually manage to change the oil around 4-4.8k miles -- due to lockdown, I just actually changed it EXACTLY after one year LOL (didn't even reach 4k miles I think this time around, and if it did, just at 4k barely). I also buy Original Honda Oil Filter (but use Penzzoil Ultra Platinum instead of MobilOne the past few changes).

I wonder if I do need to just change Serpentine Belt as well as my next service it'll be close to 70k miles. Other than that, the MID and OM seems to be a good basis indeed. (Brake Fluid is every 3 yrs in OM, and Coolant is 5 yrs in OM after original fill). Will consult with my mechanic about the proactive radiator replacement before next visit -- he's already asked for my VIN to order the part (after realizing I've been more paranoid that he is LOL)...

 

Hmm.... my radiator is still the original at 306K miles.

Sounds great only thing, I'd switch back to Mob1 oil.

 

I stand by my list that was a lot of work lol

 

Ok I'll buy Mobil1 next time when it goes on sale then... Thanks...

 

I use mobile 1 also the car begs for it on the oil cap and maintenance minder system

 

I replaced my radiator at 10 years on the car, a preventive choice, turned out it had a pinhole already, invisible to inspection inplace. Goes with a new thermostat, cap, may consider the coolant sensor as well, cheap on ebay, best to do when doing the water pump, accessory belt service...

Also every year since, I have been doing a full coolant replacement, after doing a triple empty and refill with distilled water. Read about the accidental loss of transmission fluid through the bottom elbows, corrosion builds up on the washer surface, by the time it becomes visible its too close for comfort. I guess there is a good reason why our Ontario province is part of the rust belt, though what I am fighting is different: voltage difference building up through the radiator/coolant from below 100mV when I measured with fresh coolant to over 300mV within a year of driving.

Did you read about the transmission pressure sensors, there are 3 around the engine bay? Did not see any reference about either transmission, transmission case or differential fluids done, hopefully being addressed regularly.

good luck!

 

Watch out for the install pipe mine rusted through and is leaking coolant all over my engine bay

 

Not a car guru - what/where is the install pipe? Is that the "open pipe" in this picture (arrowed) in this link that leaked coolant (the one on top, not the bottom)?
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...cement-951920/

Either way, seems like this is a very weak spot for the first gen RDX, proactively going to change it in my next service

Thanks!

 

Transmission Fluid I haven't done -- I don't recall seeing it in the OM or maintenance minder... Differential fluids for sure I did, I have changed them 2x already per Maintenance Minder... I guess Ill have to change radiator and transmission fluid on the next B service...

 

Def hit that tranny soon then.

 

maintenance codes by model
https://owners.acura.com/service-maintenance/minder

its possible some codes wont show up if counters are not reset with Acura diagnostic tool, even if maintenance message reset manually. Especially if %remaining displayed more than 15% when taken in to the shop. Maybe switch to a fixed km based schedule.

* there are two powertrain fluids other than differential, and they are different oils/qty as well: transmission and transfer case.

hth

 

Just don't google this for clarification.

 

Just realized by mileage is early, but about 3 years overdue by "age". Best to do waterpump, pulleys too, saves on redoing the coolant in November...

 

Since there is no TB, I just did my WP when it started knocking, at about 222K miles....

 

I have a thread on the install pipe issue check it out in DIY section. My exhaust is so loud that I couldn't even hear how bad my belt tension-er bearings were until i took it out and heard it with the car off obviously.

 

Ok, bumping this thread as I've decided to just replace the radiator completely (with an Original replacement part, of course) of my 2010... It's at around 71k miles (112500kms) -- aside from asking my trusted mechanic to replace radiator, so do I need to replace hoses, waterpump and pulleys too (based on what was mentioned in this thread).... What else? Serpentine belt? Other than that, just replaced coolant in end of 2020 (so it's only been 1 yr + actually but just getting paranoid about reading all these things about radiator failures potentially impacting tranny so might as well replace this in the next few weeks etc)...

Oil has been changed regularly per MID, and everything else per Manual -- eg brake fluid every 3 yrs (last replaced 2019) etc etc... Haven't changed spark plugs etc since it's not due yet, apparently...

Thanks

 

I would buy all the parts except the hoses from Rockauto. Get oem hoses from the dealer
Radiator, upper + lower hose
Thermostat
Water Pump.

I have a 2011 with 150,000 km, driven past 11 years in Canadian winters and summers (-25C to 35C temp range). My mechanic advised me the radiators usually start leaking on the edges before complete failure, so I wouldn't stress to much just yet. I did replace the spark plugs on my RDX at ~145,000 km, but that's because I've been tuned on hondata since 100,000 km .

 

Am in the process of buying the radiator -- just a clarification to be sure -- I get the Denso Radiator from Rockauto and the hoses from the dealer?

Not sure what "Brand" radiator from rockauto but wanting to make sure Denso and Stock Acura Radiator are exactly the same (to minimize headaches on fit, durability/quality in the future -- it is not a 1 hr job, I think, at least for me LOL)...

Thanks!

 

Denso is the one you want - also check Amazon as they carry it as well. The price can fluctuate a lot though. Hoses should be fine as long as they are EPDM - I can't imagine any manufacturer not making them from it today anyway. But just be sure if you go with an off-brand.

 

Thanks! RAD easily obtained... Hoses I wanted to play safe and got from the dealer -- upper and lower rad hoses are easily available. but yikes, transmission cooler hoses are backdated order till mid-late July 2020. Any alternatives suggested? (Eg I'm not too familiar with Hose "brands")

EDIT: am planning to do this summer so I can wait -- but I don't know (and probably nobody does) about shortage of parts or when it truly is available -- they (dealer) said, backordered till July 2022, but no guarantees... (I did order the RAD from Amazon and there's only a few "in stock" from Denso. Obviously it's not something they mass produce )

 

I commented on your other thread, but chances are you don't need to replace any of your hoses and won't need to unless you have your car long enough to get classic car plates. But if you're going to replace the hoses, you may as well do them all at once if you can.

 

Thanks "Tom". I already have the upper and lower RAD hoses (not too expensive at C$30/pop - so might as well, plus $4 for the clamps). I guess no need to backorder the hoses for the transmission cooler then... (It'll take another 2 months to wait for them apparently due to all these supply chain issues hitting the auto sector these days). Even the RAD itself was not "that plentiful" from Amazon, Rockauto, partsavatar (only 1 left in that site), etc

 

Bumping this thread for both updates and suggestions:

so it’s now approx at 123k kms and over 13 yrs old… things that have been proactively dove recently Eg <2-3 yrs ago

replaced RAD and hoses last June 2022… proactive just to be safe and try avoiding strawberry mix

Replaced transmission fluid last yr as hoses pulled out to connect disconnect RAD

Usual A1 service etc (I just follow mid for these things - oil, rear differential, air/cabin filter , etc)

am thinking for the summer: will replace
a) serpentine belt

At this mileage, I doubt spark plugs needed yet. Water pump? Anything else given I’m planning a proactive belt change? What actually happens if the belt dies? Nothing? Just shut down and tow home?

thanks
Ps I know it does not come up but I think I last had brake fluid flush 2 yrs ago… maybe? Maybe not flush? PS fluid I just Turkey bastered 5 yrs ago - was making whiny noises then

 

Spark plugs should be done around 100k miles, so you probably have a ways to go. Serpent belt should be good for *at least* 150k (again miles), but certainly no harm in replacing it early. My brother slacked off on his CR-V which has a belt of the same material, and it eventually snapped on him close to 250k miles. Hoses should last the life of the car, but again no harm in replacing. (I'm on original hoses with over 200k miles)

If your belt were to pop while driving you should be fine for a bit so long as you have a good battery. You'll lose your alternator and a/c, but I believe the water pump is cam-driven so you should not overheat.

Brake fluid and coolant should be done every few years regardless of miles - brake fluid will slowly absorb moisture from the air and coolant becomes corrosive over time. Pretty much everything else on my car I do my the maintenance codes as they pop up. For me a water pump is a "replace when it breaks" item, as they generally show some signs of wear before they go out (as long as you're inspecting it regularly with normal maintenance intervals).

 

oh thanks! Didn’t know I can survive for a bit with a busted belt… I drive only 8 mile / 13 kms trips usually and I just changed my battery too (and I periodically trickle charge it). Thought the belt was like the RAD that could be catastrophic. I may hold off then given that it seems the spark plugs would be ahead to be replaced vs serpentine belt.

thanks! Will hold off on this for now then. Just fluids replacement per few yr intervals - brake every 3 usually and the others MID based…

 

bump again, as I’m trying to be proactive... so far, replaced radiator (2 yrs ago - and of course, coolant), brake fluid, serpentine belt, and of course, followed MID diligently... have asked my indy mechanic about spark plugs, alternator, fuel pump, power steering pump, etc etc... he said everything NO! LOL... i mean, ok, so what would you guys "insist" for my next service at 140k kms? (yes only at 133k kms right now - about 85k miles).

i asked about replacing proactively my turbo or actuator or what not -- he told me, don't bother at some point, it might not even be worth it and just use my gasoline LOL... (apparently the car still works with a failed turbo? just consumes a lot of gasoline? i dunno if he's just joking with me or what not). he also told me, at some point, most of the gaskets will start seeping oil (and you will not want to replace them all LOL)

thoughts?

 

If you have the money, just replace it all if you're worried, but I'm one of those folks that do maintenance/wear items when they are due, and replace non-maintenance parts when they break. Spark plugs are wear items and you should consider fairly soon, as the recommended interval is about 100k miles. All the rest though - replace when they break.

And for what it's worth, I have over 210k miles on my 2010 and I replaced the actuator bolt at 150k miles. All of the other accessories are original (starter, pump, alternator, etc). If/when your actuator bolt wears out, it will not break the turbo or severely impact your driving. It's a very slow process, and over time it will reduce the engine's ability to build boost at lower rpms, and eventually though an emissions code, but is otherwise ok to drive with. Mine *is* slowly leaking oil through what I assume is the pan gasket, but it could be a gasket higher up as well. I need to get it looked into, but at this time it's like 3 drops when parked overnight and not an immediate concern.

Since you did coolant and brake fluid 2 years ago, consider it again fairly soon. I do those on my car every 3 years regardless of mileage, as time also has an impact.

 

For the turbo eyebolt/pin wear area I think it's a good idea to lube this area to reduce wear with a high-temp dry lube such as CRC graphite dry lube.

Lube here

 

thanks guys... seems like everything is not "as critical" eg car will run... i have this as my sole vehicle and I’m not really a spring chicken (though that's a good thing bec I also don't need to travel as much). and worst case, as you said, it is not going to throw error code immediately. in short, i have a vehicle... needless to say i also have CAA just to be safe eg tow to my indy mechanic

 

When you replace the spark plugs, you should also replace the coil pack at that age. I didn't when I did mine around 120K KMs and when one failed, the car was barely drivable.

 

I did my radiator and timing chain plus all supporting stuff at 160k. I know the chain is life rated, but when it goes, that's end of life.

 

I had one coil pack fail at 170k miles. I replaced it and the plugs at the time since it was convenient and close enough to the recommended replacement interval. Haven't had another fail since, and if I do I'll just replace the failed one again as well.

 

I replaced all four coil packs and plugs at 160k while changing the intercooler. I figured since I was there, might as well for old car things. I really don't want to go back in there in another 10k or so for a failure. When I replaced the radiator for a pinhole, I also had the water pump, and belt done. While they were in there, I had the timing chain and all the support stuff replaced. Yeah I know, rather extreme, but I want to keep it for a long time. When I upgraded to the Blouch turbo I had the hoses on the back of the engine replaced too.

 

Which Bloche turbo did you go with?
Did you notice a difference?