2010AcuraRDX

Hey everyone,
This is my second post. My wife and I bought a 2010 RDX base with 42,000 miles for under $20,000 last weekend from a non-Acura dealer. However, there is a list of repairs and I was curious what the rest of you have run into with your RDXs to collaborate or anticipate:

-Fuel door release cable broken
-Rear windows will not go up or down with master switch; driver rear will go up and down at that specific door switch; passenger side doesn't work at all
-Tachometer doesn't work at all
-Shifter is very stiff and difficult to get in gear
-Engine is wet with oil around rear main seal area and front side-I believe the valve cover gasket is one common issue?
-it appears the ignition switch was replaced and only came with one key; the door, center console, and glove box locks will not work with the key. One dealer quoted $750 to add one key and reset all of the locks...looking for alternative.
-Front door courtesy lights don't work, even with bulb replacement


Half of this stuff is being fixed by the dealer we negotiated with, the rest is said to be still under warranty for 8,000 more miles or Dec 31st by Acura via transferable warranty.

I would definitely appreciate feedback on what you have had to do outside of normal maintenance.

thanks!

Josh Q

Mr Marco

Flood car?

2010AcuraRDX

No. Clean Car Fax.....

dcmodels

A key w/o a chip can be used to unlock the door, center console, and glove box. Such a key is available from the dealer for $26 (my local dealer), including cutting. Actually, my local dealer, cute lady, cut two for me for FREE. Please understand that this key will *not* start the car.

You will need the original key code that was delivered w/ the car, or if I remember correctly, I only had to supply my VIN. That assumes that only the ignition lock has been changed.

Understand that the ignition key is *thinner* than the valet key. The car is delivered w/ two ignition keys and one valet key. The valet key will start the ignition, but will not open the center console, because it is too thick to fit into the lock opening. I don't remember if the valet key will open the glove box.

I mention this because when you have your non-chip key cut at the dealer, you will want an *ignition* key blank, and not a *valet* key blank.
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If you want two ignition keys, my local dealer will cut one new ignition key and program it to match the existing key, for $126
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There are other *solutions* but that is the cheapest, for a total of $150. Just remember, once upon a time, many cars had two keys, one for the ignition and one for the doors.
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It is not that difficult to change the center console and glove box locks yourself. In the DIY section of RDX there is a thread on removing and replacing the center console lid, and from there, it is quite simple to remove the lock in the lid. I have no idea, however, how you would alter that lock to match your ignition key. Seems like taking the console/ glove box locks to a lock-smith would not cost much, as the locks don't require *programming*, only the key requires programming.

JMO

dcmodels

Replacing the engine rear main seal will require pulling both the trans and engine - so not cheap.

dcmodels

Multiple possibilities, so perhaps some one else will respond w/ more accurate info - but ...

I believe that both the shift handle, and the linkage on the trans, are cable operated - at least both have adjustments.

But this would be of some concern to me as a buyer, since there are other more costly possiblities. It could be the lock-pawl in the trans for PARK mode. This pawl can be damaged by using the pawl instead of the emergency brake to prevent the car from rolling on a hill.

You do not state whether the difficulty is moving from PARK to REVERSE, or between any gear position.

2010AcuraRDX

it is difficult in any gear to shift.

iamnaike

hi guys,
i have a 2007 rdx turbo with 118k miles on it and these codes came up ( i got them from autozone)
p-145A
p-145D
p-2263

are these just censors? btw both catlyst convertors were change 2weeks ago.

dmunn

I have a 2007 RDX with 125k and experienced only one issue - a minor transmission leak which required a seal replacement ($500.00). The vehicle has been very reliable.

gfunkera1982

My SH-AWD malfunction light came on and problem with emission system. Turned out it was the seal on my gas cap, replaced it with a 10$ replacement and lights went off after a day. The lights won't automatically go off because the system has to see if after so many starts and running hours that the problem was actually fixed.

2010AcuraRDX

For anyone that is interested, here is an update:

-Replaced the hood prop rod that was completely missing along with the pivot grommet; no idea why it was missing

-Replaced floor mats with OE as the front passenger side was missing, no idea why.

-Fuel door release cable fixed, but non-Acura dealership didn't re-install spring, door doesn't stay open and out of way of pump nozzle. I purchased a new spring and will do it myself. They also somehow put a small ding that is sticking out of the door

-Rear windows have been fixed and work as they should.

-Tachometer had to be replaced as a unit with the whole cluster which took three weeks to get back from California to be certified regarding transferring the odometer mileage.

-Shifter is very stiff and difficult to get in gear. Dealership replaced the switch, better movement, but not solved. They may replace the whole transmission; find out this week.

-Engine is wet with oil around rear main seal area and front side-Dealer said it was "residual" (dripping from messy pouring of oil during oil change). They said they put a dye in the oil and we will check back before end of year. Not going to let this one slip by.

I bought a replacement key on ebay for $40 that was genuine Acura, and it cost $60 to cut and code it. I still have to get the door, console, and glovebox keyed by a local locksmith.

-Front door courtesy lights have been fixed. I replaced both harnesses to them as the negative wire was broken on each right at the socket; no idea why.

-There is a small puff of smoke on start-up, but it never persists when driving, I've seen others reporting this.

-The starter intermittently "cycles" more (6-8 revs) than what I consider normal(2-3 revs) before the engine starts. Sometimes it fires right up after 2 starter cycles/revs. Again, I found this has been reported here.

-I have had the P0299 code (low boost) twice a month ago, but not in the last week since we got the vehicle back. I will be watching out for this.

-I have replaced various interior trim pieces, namely the ones that have silver paint on them that appears to scratch easily.

-Replaced the stock (clean/newer looking) air filter with a K&N drop-in replacement. Can't say I notice any difference.

-New battery installed

-New tires installed per the agreement with the Non-Acura dealer we purchased from. They are Michelins, not cheap replacements.

-Bought the aftermarket shift knob upgrade for $40 on ebay (I believe there is still one left from WI). It is not worth more than $50 IMO.

-Purchased Factory cargo net accessory and Weathertech cargo liner. Both fit and work great!

-Purchased Factory Owners Manual, Pouch, Warranty paperwork, etc. from Ebay as ours was completely missing.

-Had the dealer do a brake fluid flush.

Now, with that been said, my wife and I are, according to KBB, still ahead by about $5,000 on value, but had to go through 6 weeks without the vehicle, and numerous repairs and "restoration" work. However, providing no more surprises reveal themselves, it will have been well worth the wait as we really enjoy driving it and it does look very nice, as it should after all of the work!

-JoshQ

stray_pube

just over 95k, all me.

- just had 2nd set of tires put on (Conti Eco+ Pure contact)
- have changed rear diff fluid twice so far per maint. minder
- changed serpentine belt at 70k just because
- oil changes every 6500 to 7000 per the maint. minder

That's it! Original brakes still good for another 30k or so based on pad thickness. Planning on changing the front diff and tranny fluid at next oil change (~100k) for the 1st time regardless if the minder finally goes off or not! Good grief.

KBB value ~ 15.5k, still owe ~7500 on it.

Mr Marco

Wow, no stop and go traffic in your commute. Mine were gone at 45K You must have a good clean RDX!!!