1G RDX Rattling Noise Off Accelerator
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josiahmgillespie (11-19-2020)
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josiahmgillespie (11-19-2020)
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josiahmgillespie (12-06-2021)
#45
background on mine. Bought it after someone replaced turbo with a used one for boost performance code. Thats pictures above. The VGT rod and eyelet were good. The used one they replace has no codes, builds boost like it should but has a rattle on decel. The eyelet and turbo arm are good. Noise goes when you pull slightly in on that are, so wiring tieing it fixed the rattle. Something for others to look at. See if that arm is worn on the turbo for the VGT
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josiahmgillespie (02-16-2021)
#46
Intermediate
Thanks to everyone that’s been contributing to this thread. 🙏🏼
I have been having the same sound. I just jumped into removing the turbo, exhaust and downpipe. I pulled the turbo and am sitting at a turbo repair shop for them to check it out for rebuild. I did order and replace the actuator bolt, but only after pulling the turbo. To get it rebuilt it’s around $400-$450 from anyone I talked to, and you can pay extra to get it upgraded (wheel).
My turbo wheel/bearing didn’t feel like it had the large amount of “play” that you see in major turbo failures, so I’m not sure what the issue is or what I’m hearing.
I’ll report back.
Also I’m installing my downpipe and getting all upper exhaust components ceramic coated to help with all the heat soaking in summer.
I have been having the same sound. I just jumped into removing the turbo, exhaust and downpipe. I pulled the turbo and am sitting at a turbo repair shop for them to check it out for rebuild. I did order and replace the actuator bolt, but only after pulling the turbo. To get it rebuilt it’s around $400-$450 from anyone I talked to, and you can pay extra to get it upgraded (wheel).
My turbo wheel/bearing didn’t feel like it had the large amount of “play” that you see in major turbo failures, so I’m not sure what the issue is or what I’m hearing.
I’ll report back.
Also I’m installing my downpipe and getting all upper exhaust components ceramic coated to help with all the heat soaking in summer.
#47
Rattle
Thanks to everyone that’s been contributing to this thread. 🙏🏼
I have been having the same sound. I just jumped into removing the turbo, exhaust and downpipe. I pulled the turbo and am sitting at a turbo repair shop for them to check it out for rebuild. I did order and replace the actuator bolt, but only after pulling the turbo. To get it rebuilt it’s around $400-$450 from anyone I talked to, and you can pay extra to get it upgraded (wheel).
My turbo wheel/bearing didn’t feel like it had the large amount of “play” that you see in major turbo failures, so I’m not sure what the issue is or what I’m hearing.
I’ll report back.
Also I’m installing my downpipe and getting all upper exhaust components ceramic coated to help with all the heat soaking in summer.
I have been having the same sound. I just jumped into removing the turbo, exhaust and downpipe. I pulled the turbo and am sitting at a turbo repair shop for them to check it out for rebuild. I did order and replace the actuator bolt, but only after pulling the turbo. To get it rebuilt it’s around $400-$450 from anyone I talked to, and you can pay extra to get it upgraded (wheel).
My turbo wheel/bearing didn’t feel like it had the large amount of “play” that you see in major turbo failures, so I’m not sure what the issue is or what I’m hearing.
I’ll report back.
Also I’m installing my downpipe and getting all upper exhaust components ceramic coated to help with all the heat soaking in summer.
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josiahmgillespie (01-31-2021)
#49
#51
Intermediate
Fixed the rattle noise in the exhaust/Turbo
So between the two wastegates, I think the problem is the one with the long arm. I tested both of the wastegates by connecting an air pump and making sure they both open and hold vacuum. They worked great, except the long arm one that opens a little circular metal “flap” in the exhaust downpipe opening. The flap didn’t close all the way when I released the pressure. That’s why it was making noise. So, I removed the wastegate connector/arm and spun it 1x and put it back on the lever. Also I just got my turbo back from rebuild and ceramic coating. Sadly there were some cracks in the exhaust housing. So eventually I will be buying a new exhaust housing and doing a swap. Maybe that’s when I do the major upgrade.
Long arm wastegate connector
Remove and spin 1x should make it right enough to close when not open.
this is where the rattle is coming from. This flap doesn’t close when it should be closed tight.
Last edited by josiahmgillespie; 01-31-2021 at 11:33 AM.
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CSmoney28 (02-03-2021)
#52
CSmoney28
Thanks for taking the time out for this post! I now know here that rattle is coming from when I let off the gas! Sad to hear about your exhaust housing being cracked...what did they do if anything about it when it got rebuild and ceramic coated?
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josiahmgillespie (02-08-2021)
#53
Intermediate
Happy to help especially if I don’t have to hear that annoying sound anymore!
Actually the turbo company (comp turbo) did a straight forward rebuild. They bead blasted it and cleaned it all up. You could see the cracks in the exhaust but he said they probably wouldn’t cause any major issue until down the line. They said there wouldn’t be any leaking into the intake which is good. So... just gonna trust them and go with it for now. Worst case I’ll order a new turbo and get it upgraded. I’ve been looking at one on eBay that is actually pretty inexpensive. That of course makes me weary.
Actually the turbo company (comp turbo) did a straight forward rebuild. They bead blasted it and cleaned it all up. You could see the cracks in the exhaust but he said they probably wouldn’t cause any major issue until down the line. They said there wouldn’t be any leaking into the intake which is good. So... just gonna trust them and go with it for now. Worst case I’ll order a new turbo and get it upgraded. I’ve been looking at one on eBay that is actually pretty inexpensive. That of course makes me weary.
#54
Happy to help especially if I don’t have to hear that annoying sound anymore!
Actually the turbo company (comp turbo) did a straight forward rebuild. They bead blasted it and cleaned it all up. You could see the cracks in the exhaust but he said they probably wouldn’t cause any major issue until down the line. They said there wouldn’t be any leaking into the intake which is good. So... just gonna trust them and go with it for now. Worst case I’ll order a new turbo and get it upgraded. I’ve been looking at one on eBay that is actually pretty inexpensive. That of course makes me weary.
Actually the turbo company (comp turbo) did a straight forward rebuild. They bead blasted it and cleaned it all up. You could see the cracks in the exhaust but he said they probably wouldn’t cause any major issue until down the line. They said there wouldn’t be any leaking into the intake which is good. So... just gonna trust them and go with it for now. Worst case I’ll order a new turbo and get it upgraded. I’ve been looking at one on eBay that is actually pretty inexpensive. That of course makes me weary.
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josiahmgillespie (02-15-2021)
#55
Intermediate
Thanks for the info on the turbo. I’m still thinking more on it. Maybe a down the line purchase and it would be nice if these exhaust housings are quality steel. Is anyone knowledgeable on the qualities or steel and how this would impact us over time?
Started up my car and so far the turbo is running great. I did end up hearing the rattling again which was very frustrating. I ended up adjusting the main wastegate and new fitting (the usual one people have issues with). Basically I got some help understanding pre load for wastegates. After watching a video it said to make sure it’s snug and there is no wiggle when pushing down on the wastegate lever. So I tightened it up some more and after putting it all back together, NO RATTLE!!
#56
Intermediate
I feel safe to say, anyone having this rattling sound on deceleration like this, it’s a wastegate and these just wear out over time. Tightening them up after 150-175k miles makes sense. I did have to get the machined part and actually add some material to my lever knob. Once the wastegates were pre loaded properly the rattle is gone. You can adjust the common wastegate on top, but the other wastegate is unreachable with it bolted to the engine.
#57
Well my temp. Fix didn't last. P2263 coded last night. Ended up ordering a Honda reman for 500 bucks. They give 300 core and I had two cores soo I got a reman for 500 bucks with 600 core credit.. couldn't beat that
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josiahmgillespie (04-21-2021)
#58
I will post what happened to my old one when I get it and inspect it...I suspect the metal arm on the actual turbo housing is flattened like my previous post with the used turbo that last 5k miles haha
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josiahmgillespie (04-21-2021)
#61
Intermediate
Figured I would update this thread,
The rattling can come from both the waste gate and the variable flow opening also. I forget the specific name for the one on the top of the turbo.
Anyhow, after installing and removing this a few times for various reasons I’ve gotten rattling from both. Easy to make sure the wastegate is setup right before installation. Also lucky that the variable control actuator is easy to reach, so when the rattling is from that, it’s easy to fine tune the bolt and nut to tighten up.
im hoping this last time will be the last time I need to install this turbo.
The rattling can come from both the waste gate and the variable flow opening also. I forget the specific name for the one on the top of the turbo.
Anyhow, after installing and removing this a few times for various reasons I’ve gotten rattling from both. Easy to make sure the wastegate is setup right before installation. Also lucky that the variable control actuator is easy to reach, so when the rattling is from that, it’s easy to fine tune the bolt and nut to tighten up.
im hoping this last time will be the last time I need to install this turbo.
#62
All great content here.
@josiahmgillespie, did you pull the turbo out the top with the engine installed?
A step by step run down and any tips/tricks would be awesome.
Acura tells me they yank the engine for any little thing wrong with a turbo on these, which amounts to insane $$.
Thanks.
@josiahmgillespie, did you pull the turbo out the top with the engine installed?
A step by step run down and any tips/tricks would be awesome.
Acura tells me they yank the engine for any little thing wrong with a turbo on these, which amounts to insane $$.
Thanks.
#63
Not necessary. It is involved, but the engine does remain in the car. All the components on the drivers side (minus the fuse box) has to be tagged and then pulled out including the brake reservoir, radiator drained, cooler assembly removed, and all the linkages/mounts. Guessing a good tech could get it done in 2.5~3 hours (but they charge book rate.) Shade tree mechanic, ~4-5 hours. Me ~12 hours (half of that is looking for the tools and bolts that got dropped into the void.) Then it all goes back together when the turbo is put back in.
They make it sound melodramatic only due to the labor hours they charge for the work.
They make it sound melodramatic only due to the labor hours they charge for the work.
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josiahmgillespie (12-21-2021)
#64
Not necessary. It is involved, but the engine does remain in the car. All the components on the drivers side (minus the fuse box) has to be tagged and then pulled out including the brake reservoir, radiator drained, cooler assembly removed, and all the linkages/mounts. Guessing a good tech could get it done in 2.5~3 hours (but they charge book rate.) Shade tree mechanic, ~4-5 hours. Me ~12 hours (half of that is looking for the tools and bolts that got dropped into the void.) Then it all goes back together when the turbo is put back in.
They make it sound melodramatic only due to the labor hours they charge for the work.
They make it sound melodramatic only due to the labor hours they charge for the work.
#65
Intermediate
Ya the whole turbo can be a pretty involved job with all the parts needed to be removed.
In the past I’ve removed the motor mounts and torque mounts to move the engine and help get the turbo up and out. This last time, I removed the valve cover and replaced the gaskets along with it. Removing the valve cover made the whole job quite a bit easier.
I would do this over removing the all the driver side components needed to get the turbo out that way.
the harder parts I think were getting the oil line nuts and bolts back on the backside of the engine/turbo. All those little parts are annoying haha.
there is also a service repair manual I can send you if you’re interested. Feel free to PM if needed.
In the past I’ve removed the motor mounts and torque mounts to move the engine and help get the turbo up and out. This last time, I removed the valve cover and replaced the gaskets along with it. Removing the valve cover made the whole job quite a bit easier.
I would do this over removing the all the driver side components needed to get the turbo out that way.
the harder parts I think were getting the oil line nuts and bolts back on the backside of the engine/turbo. All those little parts are annoying haha.
there is also a service repair manual I can send you if you’re interested. Feel free to PM if needed.
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