airlyss

Hi all,

I own an 09 RDX with 120k miles - it has been a great car for the 2 years I’ve owned it and wanted to get your advice on whether i have any high ticket maintenance or common failures to look out for.

The service history I have records for (in addition to oil changes):

85k - rear diff and transmission/transfer case fluid
88k - new 65k tires
107k - power steering fluid, brake fluid, front and rear brakes/rotors
108k - radiator drain/fill
111k - AC compressor replacement, spark plugs

Can we expect more worry free miles, or are there items that commonly go at this mileage around 120-130k? I’ve owned many Honda’s past 150k, but this is the first turbocharged car I’ve owned, so just want to be sure I know what to expect!

Thanks all!

mrgold35

I have an 08 RDX tech since 2010 with almost 180,000 miles. I've done Hondata, ETS intercooler, hondata heatshield gasket, and Progress RSB on my RDX (took off Eibach lowering springs when it killed my shocks/struts at +100K). It has been normal wear/tear items once I got past +120,000 miles (hit the 120k mark in 2015):
- replaced struts/shocks (OEM lowered on Eibach springs killed them early)
- Alternator twice (just replaced again a few weeks ago)
- coil pack (one went out, just replaced all 4)
- power steering pump replaced because of slow leak (eBay used)
- radiator replaced because of hair line crack near bottom
- replaced front axle seal
- Takada air bag replacement (2016)
- usual balance/alignments annually (lifetime with Discount Tires and Firestone)

Navi, engine, 5AT, turbo, sh-awd, A/C & heater, electronics, ELS, and HIDs work like new. No issues with turbo power, braking, handling, or 4 season performance. Handed down the RDX to my daughter and she loves driving the vehicle; except, for when she needs to fill it up at 18-19 city mpgs.

airlyss

Thanks Mr Gold! Yes, the 18-19 mpgs is real! Appreciate your perspective!

Tomtwtwtw

I have a 2010 @ 180k miles. Outside of normal maintenance (fluids, brakes, suspension, plugs, etc), I have replaced the following:

Center console and both front door armrest leather due to bubbling/separation
Positive battery cable due to corrosion (I blame myself for not keeping it clean)
1 failed coil pack
Turbo inlet bolt (see below)

At some point you can probably expect a trouble code P2261. Seems to be more of a when, and not if, and between 100-150k miles is most common. The usual culprit is a little bolt that bolt that connects the turbo inlet actuator to the arm that adjusts the air flow into the turbo. It will wear into an oval over time and once there is enough play in it, the code will start popping under heavy throttle. It may go away after a few days, but over time it will pop more often. It's a fairly easy DIY, but you'll want a narrow wrench set and some thin metal wire to help make sure you don't drop any tools, or worse, the bolt itself. The dealership will recommend a full turbo replacement at a cost of several thousand bucks. Hard pass. Just search for the P2261 code on this site and you'll find tons more info.

airlyss

Thanks for this - I'll definitely check out the turbo inlet bolt. Would you recommend doing this pre-emptively? It looks like the bolt is fairly inexpensive - the youtube videos look tricky but doable!

CSmoney28

I have too much matinence and warranty work to list here 😂

Tomtwtwtw

You can inspect it just by popping the hood. It'll help to shine a flashlight on it, but you should be able to see if there is any wearing of the bolt hole and go from there. But ultimately there's no real potential to damage the engine when the light first comes on, it'll just impact drivability to some extent and may cause you to fail emissions testing depending on what your state or county does.

Altair

Search and read about radiator failures and dumping the transmission fluid. Point of failure is the hookups on the lower side get pushed out from the threads by rust, mostly invisible or inaccessible to inspection.

i chose to do the radiator preemptively, did it myself after I first got the car used. Turned out it had a pinhole, leaking slowly, would had not hold pressure if needed.

also the PCV, 20$ new part and 10' of work gives me peace of mind, very easy to do at same time with the radiator.

good luck!

Midnight Mystery

Turbo is rock solid on these. 304K on my 2007 and still hoing strong!!!

Midnight Mystery

Electrical system, on the other hand......

CSmoney28

Damn 304k miles I’m only at 149k miles with my 09’

schen72

My 2008 is a few hundred miles away from 100k miles.

CSmoney28

That's low mileage

TheCanadian

Biggest issue I'd say is the clip that wears down on the turbocharger. The dealer and most mechanics will tell you to replace the entire turbo assembly - but fortunately people have started to make the clip itself for ~ $100.

CSmoney28

Yeah, eBay is fully of the turbo actuator rod threaded nuts to open the internal waste gate for the turbo charger.

Midnight Mystery

What are the symptoms of that clip failing?

CSmoney28

If you need a picture I can show you the hole becomes to big because of friction and goes from round to an oval.

DaIll1

This https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...oblems-861782/

feralcomprehension

Condensation inside the headlamps will eventually kill the HID ballast. Simple drain holes are probably enough to sort the issue out and prevent failure of still-working components.

CSmoney28

For some reason only the driver side headlight and fog-light look like aquariums...

mrgold35

I had condensation issue with one of my HIDs; but, didn't notice it living in the dry southwest with 5%-15% humidity and only 5-9 inches a precipitation a year. Took a road trip to humid southeast TX and it showed up right away. Able to get it fixed under the 4/50k basic warranty.

CSmoney28

That's awesome that you were able to get it fixed under warranty

feralcomprehension

It's too late to edit but what I really ought to have written is, "If you allow condensation to remain inside the headlamps it may eventually kill the HID ballast."

Midnight Mystery

Sounds possible though.

My headlights have had condensation in them since 2016 and still no ballast issues, but my bulbs are getting weak though.

CSmoney28

Pain in the ass to change in my own opinion and experience