Hi Guys,

I have been restoring a 1998 Acura CL 2.3. I've run into a couple of issues that I need some help resolving.

I've installed a new distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, O2 sensor (front), catalytic converter, rear ABS sensors, installed a new oil pan, new front hubs and bearings and serviced the brake callipers. All parts are genuine Honda either from the local dealership or online. I've cleaned out the EGR valve and PCV valve, and reset the ECU. The engine coolant is topped up and bled at the bleeder valve on the intake manifold.

I also had an issue with the DRL which was resolved thanks to previous posts on Acruzine. The car also has a new Honda brand windshield, new brake rotors and tires on all four corners.

Problem #1
The car starts right up and idles smoothly (around 750 rpm). The car accelerates well without hesitation. When I pull up to a stop sign or stop light, the RMP's drop and the car stalls. If I "blip" the gas peddle just once before the engine stalls, then the car continues to idle smoothly. This problem repeats itself until the car is fully warmed up. Once the engine is at normal operating temperature - then this is a total non-issue. It only occurs during the first few minutes of operation. I would like to resolve it before the cold winter weather because it will appear to be much worse.

Problem #2
I have no idea if this is related to the first problem - however the throttle seems to stick. The various pieces on the TB rotate just fine with plenty of spring tension - however when the throttle is at the closed or relaxed position, I can turn it by hand and actually feel it sticking. This is noticeable right at the TB as well as at the gas peddle. Its not a lot of resistance - kind of like a kitchen cupboard door that you have to pull just a bit harder because its stuck to one of the padded buttons that have moved and become "stuck" to the cupboard door.

I have all of the parts to replace the timing belt - but I really would like everything running 100% before I move on to the next project. I'm open to any suggestions.

 

Vacuum leak for #1 maybe. Complete guess though!

 

Thanks ...

I was thinking that would be the next thing to check. I watched a YouTube video from ETCG that demonstrated how to check for vacuum leaks. It seems pretty straight forward as long as you take the proper precautions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok

 

Eric the car guy is beast! Helped me out alot!