Shyt4Brains

I recently posted on this board a while back. But got zero to no responses on the subject. I think maybe I posted somewhere that it didn't belong? Or people just didn't give a shit? Either way, here's round 2.

I'm a daily driver, and I enjoy (like any other human with a pulse) to speed from time to time. Now I'm not talking 90 down a 25 zone, but 50 in said zone, lol. Here's the thing though. I bought the car back in July from some kid. Problem was, I didn't push the car as I intended because it was still 0800 in a white town, where Hispanics like me would be hung for noise pollution.

Anyway, I was the sucker for that day. But I pushed the car to it's limit on the way home and soon discovered my car wouldn't push past 4000 rpm. I figured it was because the knock sensor was broken. After I replaced the knock sensor, my car would go past 4000 rpm after every start up? Weird huh?

Friend of mine then suggested cleaning out the fluids, which I did. Although the problem seemed resolved after changing the spark plugs, cables, oils, tranny fluid, the problem soon came back. If anything the car now feels like a caged beast confined in a prison cell.

But to give you guys an idea of what I mean, I start the car, drive and push toward and past 4000 rpm. It'll rise and climb to the red. I shift into the next gear and try to push past 4000 rpm, but it'll reach 5500 rpm and it starts to bang against an imaginary wall.

I've tried to hold it down to see if it'd push past but it doesn't. Instead it feels like it's banging into something that isn't there. I've no idea what else to do, cause google doesn't have a "fix this" option. So I've come home to the lovers of Acuras like myself in hopes to find some type of resolution to my problem. I love my car, and would have to get rid of it because of this bullshit problem.

Please, any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Shyt4Brains

Oh, by the way... It's an 1998 Acura CL 2.3, manual transmission.

Miiike

iTrader: (4)

So you're saying it won't go past 4000 rpm, but it will reach 5500 rpm? I'm not sure what you're trying to say here, but last time my car put itself in limp mode it was limiting revs at 4k. Do you have a check engine light?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

I moved your 1st post into the 1st gen CL section. Please follow the link....
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-problems-fixes-71/

Shyt4Brains

[quote=Miiike;14000542]So you're saying it won't go past 4000 rpm, but it will reach 5500 rpm? [quote]

I think I mis-wrote my thoughts here. Let me break it down;

1st gear - red / shift
2nd gear - 5500 / hits invisable wall / shift
3rd gear - 4000 / hits wall again / shift
4th gear - 4000 / repeat
etc., etc...

And I'm not sure if there is a check engine light on or not. The previous owner mentioned the person he bought the car from had disabled the check engine light. Though, I'm not exactly sure how someone "disables" a light on the cluster without removing some bulbs? I even tried switching the bulbs within the cluster to see if the check engine light would come on, but nothing.

mordor110

Hmm. Yeah you need to get your CEL working to check for OBD 2 codes. Light should come on momentarily when you turn the ignition on so put a bulb in and see if it works at ignition on? Or just have Autozone scan for codes anyway. Like already posted, you maybe in limp mode?

Or I've seen something before like what you're describing when the timing belt is ONE tooth off? The lower gears it will rev out further, then with more load it drops. Just something to consider.

Shyt4Brains

So I went to the local inspection center to check my car. 99% passed, except for one thing. Though, I want sure what it was, until I googled the code. The code I got was p1259. Now I know I don't have low oil, because I gave my car a full tune up last week. One thing I did know was that my vtech wasn't working. So I believe that is the problem. My issue is I have no idea how to repair it, any advice?

pitbullLOVER

...... yah, add oil till in between holes on dip stick..... ....
....you did said oil change??? did you forget to compensate for the oil in the oil filter or you just never filled it all the way??? v-tech is controlled threw an oil pressure sending unit, the oil just ...how do i put this,.. as pressure builds oil klimbs up a shaft/tube kinda like murcury rising in a thermometer, if the oil is low or to thin pressure is never reached (a loose v-tech oil line will cause this to) ,.. soooo, it shouldnt be broke, that is to say what you did shouldnt have broke anything, the v-tech solenoid is the only thing i could see needing replacing. low oil can damage bearings though,.. arrrgggg. hope all is well with your cl.

Shyt4Brains

Yeah, I did give my CL an Oil Change, which was a whole lot more easier then changing the tranny fluid (someone should have told me I'd need a funnel with a hose). But I checked the vtech solenoid and it was tight in place. I pulled it off from the motor and cleaned it out. I noticed a minor difference in the performance, but nothing that'd make me cry for joy, if anything cringe with pain in knowing my vtech wasn't kicking in at all. I'm thinking maybe there is something wrong with my vtech solenoid.

And if that is the case, I will have to end up replacing it. Odd question, but I noticed my oil pan looked like it'd been to hell and back (as in it's leaking, but there's no oil puddles where I park ever), should I replace the oil pan gasket as well as the valve cover gasket? Because I already have the valve cover gasket, but decided not to replace it the last second because someone scared me by saying that it was a complicated procedure to do?

pitbullLOVER

well.... im baked so try to hang with me if i stray, k , awesome, 1st i cant remember if you got a v6 or the 4 banger but if the v6 v-tech aint that much more noticeable, not like a dohc n-e-way, you can tell a dohc kicked in but the sohc are kinda quiet but if you know this just disregard, now, as for the help on work, all's you got's ta do is ask a brothah mang, p.m. or right here in this thread,... OR EVEN BETTER ON MY SUPER FANTASTIC FREE ???? ANSWERING THREAD, its quite the experiance, anyway, the oil you speak of on this hell pan, is the pan dinted n shit or just kinda scraped, a little dirty and oil covered?? if the pan gasket is bad it will leak like a muther fuker, just ask my cr-v, if its not pooling and when you wipe some with your finger if it dosent look like it was in your motor 1 minute ago its not a bad leak, kinda normal for older cars but no leak is a good leak. changing a solenoid isnt hard just $$$. the valve cover on a 4 bang is easy but the v6 is a little more involved, i think, but never done so not sure, i think you have to pull the motor to do the pan gasket, but you wanna check on that, if you can replace them, cause if a gasket leaks you will lose a little oil pressure, v-tech runs on oil pressure so it might help,..??? idi you put 5w-30 in, ??? too thin and you wont get pressure. ...??? i dont know what more to tell you.

Shyt4Brains

UPDATE: So I went ahead and bought a brand new V-tech Solenoid, I thought the price would be worse, but for a 160 bucks, it wasn't that bad. Now replacing the old one with a new one was a whole different issue. Something which took a newbie like me several hours to complete. To my surprise, it leaked a little oil out after I pulled out the old solenoid. Though when I put in the new one, I disconnected the battery to my car for ten minutes. After which I reconnected it and then started the car, leaving it idle for ten minutes before going for the test drive.

But like so many times before, it went past the 4000 mark, but I didn't hear the vtech kick in at all. I figured maybe the car hadn't registered that the Solenoid had been replaced? So I disconnected the computer again, and went for another spin. Again it went past the 4000 mark, but when I tried to push it more, it locked itself out and started to act as if it was in the redline.

I looked up elsewhere for some help, and found some people saying that it could be one of a few things:

• wiring problem
• computer not grounding the solenoid
• bad oil pump or bad oil pressure

Now I've said it before, I have Shit for Brains when it comes to this all, so any help here would be great. I might take it tomorrow to the devil (a mechanic), to see if he can give me an idea of what the problem could be. Whatever the case, I will post result here.

And if any of you guys live in Hudson County and know what you're doing under the hood, and care to take a crack at it, I'd be willing to take it to you for some input. I love my CL, and only wish it to be running at 100%, and not at this slug like 50%.

pitbullLOVER

id definatly try wiring, electrical is a biotch, grounds, connection, relays, fuses, the wires them selves, the componenrs they are hooked to, there is so many places for fault. if the solenoid didnt work id try to take it back nd get youe $$$ back, worth a shot, if the fuses and relays are good connections are a must to check, but it kinda sounds a little like limp mode, when they scanned it did they clear the codes?????

G*LUVA

iTrader: (1)

Check water pump for faults. Or so I've been told

Jesse748

I have a 98 accord 2.3 vtec and my car won't Rev over 4k period in idle or any gear I just bought it and when I got it there was basically no oil in it didn't even show up on the dip stick so i obvioslu put some in and then I just drove it after having the battery off and it ran fine hit vtec everything seemed great check engine light was off and then all of a sudden I hit 4k and it bogged out and almost died and the check engine light came back on and now again it won't go over 4k at all figured originally it would be because of the low oil but doesn't seem to be the case... when the cars running right its awesome.. also ran the codes and got the vtec malfunction and knock sensor previous to this last drive haven't ran the codes yet but I'm assuming the same two are going to come back up really didn't want to have to replace the selinoid especially cuz sometimes the car runs perfectly fine any ideas..? Good to know I'm not the only one having this problem did you end up taking it to the mechanic to see what he had to say?