When I first start up my car, there is a humming sound and then the ABS light comes on once the sound stops. The brakes work fine and not sure why ABS is acting up. Has any one experienced this and anyone have extra ABS parts lying around?

 

nope, my ABS s pretty much non-functional 99.999999% of the time Im driving. . . the conventional brakes work damn well though

 

If you need parts, please post a thread in the Black Market section of AZ, not in model specific forums.

Need some more info. Any other systems not working, does the ABS light go off at any point, does it only come on during engine startup?

 

The light comes all with all the other lights when you first turn on the ignition, then goes off. Once you start the car, the humming starts and does not stop until the light comes on and the humming stops.

 

take a look at TexasHonda's response to this thread. Do as he specifies, and get back with me, I can look up the code and tell you what it says.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191799

 

This weekend I will be able to check it and I will let you know, Thanks

 

 

my ABS wasnt working for the winter...but now the temp is starting to warm up its starting to work again...weird stuff

 

james, did you get the BRAKE light or the ABS light?

 

ABS light only in the winter time...it disappeared once the climate has warmed up

do this every winter...its too expensive to replace any of the ABS parts...so I just leave it alone

 

Strange... usually in cold weather I get the BRAKE light, but never the ABS light. Did you make sure your fluid is topped off?

 

I don't know if I should had to this thread or start my own, sorry.

OK my kids ABS light has been on for awhile and I was taking the snows off this weekend and previously decided to fix it when I did this. Ran the code a couple weeks ago and it indicated Right Rear speed sensor so I ordered it and put it on today. Start the car and back out of the garage and put it in drive and start going and the ABS light comes on. So I swore and pulled the code and now it indicates left read speed sensor!!!

Is it going to go through all of them one at a time until I change them all or will it make me replace parts until I've replaced them all!!!!
These parts are a bit expensive to be just replacing them!

Thanks for the help...

 

IMO you should always start your own thread to address your separate problem, but not an earthshaking issue either way.

ABS sensor code is frequently caused by dirt or debris blocking the signal. Make sure the sensor and wheel pulser ring (notched section of CV axle) are clean. It also possible that corrosion and debris have eroded the pulser ring until gap is too large to generate adequate signal. Gap must be 0.4-1mm or 20-40 mils. In cold climates where road salt and grit are used for icy roads, this may be your problem. It might be possible to grind the mounting point on the knuckle or sensor base enough to reduce the sensor gap into acceptable range.

You can download a 94-97 Honda Accord shop manual from hondahookup.com. The ABS system is same for the 2.2 CL's.

good luck

 

Thanks for the help and the link. Guess it better to do the cheapest option first hey, live and learn!!!!

 

I ran out of time over the weekend and could not check the reading. Didn't even get a chance to figure out how. I'm concerned more over the humming sound when I tun on the ignition and it stops when the ABS light comes on. I have a funny fealing that one of the senors may be acting up though it might be a bigger proble with the main parts of the ABS system.

Coming home yesterday, we had three cars spin out right in front os us so I'm thankful for good breaks and tires. I was not in the CL though when it happened and I'm not sure if the car sould have handled the same. Thanks for your help.

 

The humming sound is the abs modulator pump trying to charge the accumulator. When it will not charge, the ABS light comes on and ABS is disabled, hence humming stops. This generally means either low fluid in the ABS reservoir (leak in modulator is usual problem), or a leaking internal valve prevents accumulator from charging to required pressure. Wheel sensor problem is separate.

Get ABS code and it may provide a clue to your problem.

good luck

 

Thanks, I thought it might be that though I needed confirmation. I have not had a chance to check the codes. Hopefully I will get a chance this weekend. I've been trying to price a new modulator and or reservior tank though I could only find them in the $1000+ range and I thought something was wrong with that. Thanks for your help. Hopefully with the code the cost of the repair will drop down.

 

You can find used modulators for <$100 w/o problems. All the 94-97 Accords w/ ABS are potential modulator donors, so there are many units available. Check car-part.com for a part near your zip code, go inspect, and insure they will replace/refund if the part is non-functional (impossible to tell by looking, you have to install and check). I have found some bad and good units, but removal/installation is 30 minutes w/ proper tools (10mm flare tubing wrench is key).

For the repair on my daughter's 2.2CL, I decided to use the modulator body from salvage yard part and drive motor from original part because the drive motor from salvage yard part was bad (fully rusted). It works and has been working for over a year. I did have to re-tighten the modulator body plugs which are prone to leak on some modulators.

good luck

 

I found the ABS system Box though I can not find the wire to jump. I found the electrical wire for the fan electrical wires. Please help.

 

The ABS controller is not touched to check ABS codes.

The Service Check Connector (used for ECU, TCU, and ABS code access) is beneath the glovebox, and is a 2-wire blue connector. It's usually mounted on a plastic bracket that must be released. Install a short jumper wire to the connector sockets.

Turn keyswitch to On, and ABS light will flash codes. All short flashes, ffff-p-f = 4-1. The "p" is a short pause between flashes. Separate codes may be present w/ a long pause between separate codes.

Suggest downloading the 94-97 Accord manual from hondahookup.com. It has identical ABS system and lots of useful info, including above description. This manual is useful for all sorts of repairs since the 2.2CL and Accord are essentially the same "under the skin".

good luck

 

This may seem crazy, though I can not find the wire. I'm looking for two wires that have an adapter on the end that are not connected to anything? Right??? The only wire I can find are attatched to the ABS Box of the fan unit. My CL is a 97 2.2. Anyone have a picture where they found theirs? Thanks.

 

Its by the hinges of the glove box. It's a blue plastic connector and it IS attached to a dummy plug. From what I remember it's tucked on top of another connector so it may be hard to see. Lay on the floor and look up you should see it.

 

Thanks, I'll look again. There is a four wire plug there and I'll disconnect that and look above it. I almost want to think that that is the plug though I'm looking for only two wire attatched to a plug, right?

 

Yes, two wires, blue plug most likely tucked on top of that 4 wire plug you're looking at.

 

Thanks, after finding the thread, I did find a blue plug and I'll jump the wires together this weekend and let you know what the light does. Thanks for your patience. I've been to busy with other things lately.

 

This afternoon I finally had some free time and was able to jump the wire. The ABS Light Blinks then pauses for a total of four blinks. Please let me know what it means and what I need to do now. Thanks for you pateince and all your help.

 

I don't see a code 4 listed anywhere.

Are you sure the 4 flashes weren't followed some other flashes. If so it could be a wheel sensor at one of the 4 corners.

Here is a link to the codes (look under the ABS column)

http://home.insightbb.com/~niedejb/refs2.html

 

Thanks, I'll go back out and check it again. I'm counting the light coming on once you turn on the ignition at the first one. Could be wrong. I'll go back out and check it again. Thanks Again.

 

I think you have code 1. First long light flash has no meaning. Following three flashes w/ long pauses are code 1. Code 1 is modulator pump overrun. Download the manual for all the possibilities.

Is fluid level OK? Any evidence of leaks around the base of the modulator? If not, the internal leaks may be the problem. In this case a used replacement modulator is fix. Check car-part.com for used modulators near you.

good luck