bcjet

Thanks in advance for any help.

I bought a 99 3.0 Automatic with 225,000 miles on it.

Car starts up fine as long as it has been sitting for at least a 1/2 hour. If you turn the car off and start it back up right away the car starts and the rpms drop to 400 and the car stalls. It will not start with out letting it sit for five or more minutes. Any Ideas on this?

If you guard the throttle when you start it and rev it right away it is fine and will stay running. Once running runs smooth through all the gears and idles smooth as can be.

Second question is where is the fuel filter located and is a pain to change? Figured I would start there.

Thanks Again Bill

bcjet

Little more info. Today its about 20 degrees warmer than when I bought the car. It in the 80s. The car will start, try to idle and stall. You can rev it still dies right after starting when warmed up. Gave it a shot of either starts right up and stays running. I hate gremlins.

Thanks Bill

pitbullLOVER

well hello bill,
could be a couple things,
-1st- when did it have a COMPLETE tune up last, air filter, FUEL FILTER, wires, rotor & cap, plugs, P.C.V. valve, ???
-2nd- if the engine is too rich and the spark is weak,, right after you shut the girl down the cyl's and ports are full of gas, if its too rich and the spaek is shitty it floods, when you let it sit the gas evaporates. cause see #1
-3rd- i know for sure if your gas cap is bad or you dont click it 4 + times when putting on the cap it will give you problems.

id try that for now, and as for the fuel filter , its on the fire wall , little black (if stock) cylinderwith hose comming out the top, cant remember wrench sizes right now, too high , but i think 14mm, or 15mm and 19mm or 17 mm., she might be under pressure when you undo the top banjo bolt and spray gas so cover it with a rag when you undo.

well,.. hope that helped.

bcjet

Yes that is very helpful. Changing each part one at a time. Changed the airfilter yesterday will see was very dirty. Transmission is acting up so going to start looking for a junk yard one or having this one rebuilt. Hard shifting and slipping in 3rd gear. I wish I didn't like the car but this thing drives great. Thanks for the help.

Bill

pitbullLOVER

lol, these f-ing tranny's man. i love my girl and WHEN the tranny goes i will fix it cause its my favorite car ive ever had but when these cars sell for $2000 - $4000 max, its hard to justify the expence, expecially when a 2003 type -s auto is about $4000 - $6000, lol. change your fluid with new honda/acura automatic transmission fluid, might help a little, also a tranny cooler would be a good idea.

heads up, if you can get a good one cheep good deals cause from what im hearing a cheep un rebuilt tranny that is used is $2000 - $3000, but if you really like the car ,.. i mean you want this thing for a while it is possible to get tranny's rebuilt with bronze guides and stronger gear plates and shit but they are like $5000, .... buuuuut once you got that you could get and handle the comptech supercharger

i kinda drive like a bitch because i baby my tranny but once its race time.......

bcjet

Dropped at the Honda dealer today. 3200 for trany rebuilt from Tracey engineering, ever here of these guys. 36 month 100,000 mile waranty. That puts me up to 5 grand into the car. Any thing comparable new would be well over 20 grand. Anything used is just going to have its share of problems. It is what it is.

pitbullLOVER

thats about the going rate installed, good if the install is done by honda/acura, as for tracey engineering ..???.. i myself know nothing but google will be the place to find out. a lot depends on where tracey engineering gets their parts: china, u.s.a., japan and the worker doing the work, if he knows his shit and is haveing a good day.
but ive heard of places doing performance rebuilds with stronger parts, dr.evil used to be one company but i dont know anything elce, again google. but it depends what you want from it, if your selling it a used unrebuilt will do, if your restoring the bitch and are going to put 300 + horse power threw the tranny id ggo full out.

well, keep us posted on how everything goes.

bcjet

Picked up the car yesterday. Drivers great. I should sell it but I really enjoy driving this thing. I'll keep you up to date.

Starting problem gone since air filter change and ran a tank off gas with Seafoam. Filter was pretty dirty. Going to change fuel filter this weekend.

Need a speed sensor on left rear wheel for ABS system. Anyone ever do this project?

Thanks

saiko_cl_duck

I've changed out speed sensors before, pretty cut and dry. Just look at it and you can figure it out. Just be careful with the sensor end, if you mess it up, you're out some good $$$. Otherwise, it's just brackets and a plug.

bcjet

Latest update. The car runs and drives great, until you shut it off and try to start it back up. Something to do with fuel and heat. When its above 75 degrees out the car will not start (warmed up) unless you wait about an hour to cool down. It will start if I cycle the key enough times to hear the fuel pump run. I am running premium gas. The car will start go to 600 rpm then die if you rev it will still die. I am pretty sure it is starving of fuel.

Changed fuel filter no help. Seems like some sensor giving some bad info.

Thanks for any help.

pitbullLOVER

you should scan the car with an O.D.B.2 reader to see if it throws codes.

a bad or loose (not clicked 3 times) gas cap can cause some driveing issues.

you could install a cooler thermostat to help with the temp.

as for the premium gas... i my friend spent some time in the topic as it was a major concern of mine.
(1st)regular gas has more additives and impureaties like sulfur and MMT (Methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl , witch is the worst thing you could put in yout car) premium is refined a little more and less additives.
(2nd)unless the compression is high (9.5 to 1 or over) or you have forced induction (turbo , super charger) or timming retard your engine actually has to work harder to burn premium fuel completly and as a result usually doesnt resulting in a carbon build up and running issues, the sulfur in the regular helps it burn complet but leaves sulfur deposits.
(3rd)premium is like $5 - $10 more per tank and may do nothing possitive for the car or performance.
(4th)octain in gas brakes down over time and weekens (again why they use sulfur and additives) so over time that old giant tank of premium gas that only you may be buyiny, well by the time its getting empty that premium gas might have detiriorated to regular gas or lower not to menssion condensation and ground waters. the regular usually gets bought quick so its usually very fresh gas.

just some brain food, run what you want, i ran premium in everything i owned for 20 years, in the last 3 years ive ran regular. i use shell cause they dont use MMT.

fabrizzio71

@bcjet- On my 99 3.0 I've noticed a similar occurrence but not a real issue yet as it is with yours. When I start the car up cold it starts normally, but when it's still warm and I start it, the rpms go low (around 400) but then the car regulates and the rpms go back to normal idle speed. I run 89 octane Shell in mine. I'm wondering if it could be the Idle Air Control Valve?

pitbullLOVER

could be, they can get dirty, easy to clean, im ripped and will let this gentalmen do the work of telling you how to clean it.

bcjet

Thanks I agree with all above going to try regular gas next fill up. I had a boat that would only run on 87 octane.

Fab yes that is exactly what mine does only doesn't recover it dies but it tries to run.