Rabbit97

I am looking for some information.

ABS
The dealer has told us that the modulator has an internal leak causing the pump to energize intermitantly. The want $1300+tx to replace, they sell the set for $950 remanufactured. It looks relativly simple to change out from it's front location. I do not want to buy the parts from a junk yard and my wife does not want to plug a bypass. Is their any other source I can check for this assembly other then the dealer? Is it a seal in the modulator which is leaking? Is there a rebuild kit?

Other
For several years on long trips, after several hours at 80 mph the transmission feels like it kicks into cost for a second and repeats several times. When this occurs the dashboard drive light goes out in concert. The dealer did a diagnostic (for a price of coarse) and could not find an explanation. A previous post indicated a shift solenoid may be the culprit. Any body have this problem that fixed it? Is the solenoid reasonable located for accessability?

Thanks for any pertinant information in responding posts!

saiko_cl_duck

check www.acuraautomotiveparts.org for parts, they have just about every part you should need, but it's still gonna be kinda costly, but their parts are perfect OEM.

as far as the cruise control, i dont know. Do you have a MT or an AT?

TexasHonda

If it truly is an internal modulator leak, and I would not take their word, then modulator replacement is the only fix. Short the service check connector and count the ABS light flashes. Post the code and I'll tell you the possibile faults.

I had an internal leak in a 97 2.2CL and took the unit completely apart attempting to discover the fault. While I learned a lot, I didn't fix the modulator.

I think you're missing a bargain on a used modulator vs. a new modulator. Cost of a decent, used modulator w/ a working garuntee from salvage yard will be no more than $100-150. I've bought them for < $50 on ebay. They are not perfect and you must be prepared to perhaps replace w/ a substitute if first unit is a bad part. It happened to me once. W/ a 13/1 cost ratio, you will be at least $1000 ahead on parts, even w/ bad luck.

It is a relatively easy replacement. First be sure you buy a 10mm, flare tubing wrench to loosen the tubing nuts. This will prevent rounding the nuts w/ an open-end wrench. A set of flare tubing wrenchs cost me $5 at a local tool outlet store. Best investment I ever made for these type of connections. Disconnect the 6 tubing lines. Look at the arrangement of tubes and decide which to remove first. I like lower row first, back-front and upper row, 2nd front-back. Disconnect electrical connector and 3 hold down nuts, and lift out. Installation is simple reversal of removal.

After reinstalling, make sure the modulator reservoir is full, brake master cylinder reservoir is full, and bleed the brakes of air trapped in brake lines from modulator. Check MC reservoir while bleeding to be sure it stays near full. Modulator will purge air by running till pressure builds and holds. It is possible to bleed modulator, but usually not necessary.

good luck