H22a Swap Into 97' 2.2 Cl
#1
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H22a Swap Into 97' 2.2 Cl
I JUST RECENTLY SWAPED IN A H22 INTO MY CL. AFTER COMPLETION I NOTICED THAT THE ECU FOR THE H22 WAS A P13 OBD1 AND MY CL WIRING HARNESS IS A OBD2. I WENT ABOUT GETTING A P72 OBD2 OUT OF A 96' GSR. I THEN HOOKED IT UP AND I HAVE A STOCK REDLINE OF 6500 RPMS AND NO PERFORMANCE WHAT SO EVER. I CANT REALLY EVEN FEEL THE VTEC KICK IN. I KNOW THAT THE REDLING SHOULD BE 7400 BUT I CANT GET THERE. DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS OR HAS ANYBODY DONE THIS SWAP? PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
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#4
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try asking this question in the 1st gen forum and not the gallery - you might get some better answers out there. if f0de was around he's the H22 expert
#5
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chances are it was an automatic tranny on the prelude so go to a junk yard and see if u can try to find a manual tranny ecu because the same thing happened to my friend he blew his gsr motor in his integra and now he has an ls motor in it and instead of going to 7 grand it redlines at 6500 because it was out of an automatic ls integra so that may be it unless u are running ur stock tranny then thats why i hope i could help
#6
i know how you feel buddy..
i had the stock computer in for a week you feel no diffrents..
what i did was got the wiring diagram for the honda prelude and the cl
and started cutting welding wirers together for obd1
then i put in the h22a computer..
wow trust me, once your done that you see a big ass diffrences.
or you can go and buy a jumper cable it about 200 and just plug that into your stock harness. and you got obd 1
i had the stock computer in for a week you feel no diffrents..
what i did was got the wiring diagram for the honda prelude and the cl
and started cutting welding wirers together for obd1
then i put in the h22a computer..
wow trust me, once your done that you see a big ass diffrences.
or you can go and buy a jumper cable it about 200 and just plug that into your stock harness. and you got obd 1
#7
i see you lost you powerstreeing..
i try to keep everything a close as stock
kept everything like ac, powerstreeing petty much everything from my old motor, but my crusie control
i try to keep everything a close as stock
kept everything like ac, powerstreeing petty much everything from my old motor, but my crusie control
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#10
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I am a newbie... but I owned a 94 VTEC Lude... for 6 yrs and 173k miles!
however, the solution would be a 1996 VTEC Lude ECU. no autos in that vintage. and OBDII compliant. should be plug and play. the GSR used a smaller B series vtec motor...
I don't understand why the PS was lost... the chassis on the 1st gen CL is the basically same as the 4th gen prelude and the 5th gen accord.
however, the solution would be a 1996 VTEC Lude ECU. no autos in that vintage. and OBDII compliant. should be plug and play. the GSR used a smaller B series vtec motor...
I don't understand why the PS was lost... the chassis on the 1st gen CL is the basically same as the 4th gen prelude and the 5th gen accord.
#11
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YOU HAVE TO RE-WIRE YOU HARNESS TO THE OBDI ECU!!!
You are having no performance because you hooked up your cl ECU right? Right!
Take your car to a shop and have it re-wired to OBDI. I had a shop do that and it only cost $300.
Or when i get my car back this week I will go completly out of my way and hook you up with the correct wires. which ones go where etc.
Do you have the prelude wire harness?
You are having no performance because you hooked up your cl ECU right? Right!
Take your car to a shop and have it re-wired to OBDI. I had a shop do that and it only cost $300.
Or when i get my car back this week I will go completly out of my way and hook you up with the correct wires. which ones go where etc.
Do you have the prelude wire harness?
#12
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<Memory Flash>
I read in Sport Compact Car that ALL Honda ECU's had VTEC programmed in them, it just had to be tuned.
Now, this was related to installing an H22 in a Civic.
Does that not apply here? Could the ECU be reprogrammed? What about a VTEC controller?
I read in Sport Compact Car that ALL Honda ECU's had VTEC programmed in them, it just had to be tuned.
Now, this was related to installing an H22 in a Civic.
Does that not apply here? Could the ECU be reprogrammed? What about a VTEC controller?
#13
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the cl ecu doesn have VTEC in it but why would you want redline at 6000 on a prelude motor?
It is almost (if not is) impossible to reprogram an OBDII ECU.
There absolutely no point not to change the ecu. You can plug the h22 up to your ecu and it will run but like shit and your fuel maps etc will all be off and it won't perform like it should.
It is almost (if not is) impossible to reprogram an OBDII ECU.
There absolutely no point not to change the ecu. You can plug the h22 up to your ecu and it will run but like shit and your fuel maps etc will all be off and it won't perform like it should.
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Lets try this again... it is not impossible to reprogram an OBDII ECU, perhaps its more accurate to say you cannot reprogram a Honda/Acura OBDII ECU.
I know, for a fact, that OBDII ECU's are reprogrammable, why else are Corvette ZO6's getting 750hp??? From OBDII compliant ECUs?
Now, Dinan used to provide a chip for OBDI Preludes. Bumped the limiter to 8100 or so. I am shocked that no one else makes such a chip, or, its not easily done. If there is such a chip for the Prelude VTEC, I would be willing to bet money it would work in a CL ECU. The programming is the key, and its all on the chip. If there is anything that Honda has done, is create commonality in parts. So many parts across platforms are common. Its great. Power window motors are the same within a chassis platform... power locks are the same, period... amazing. Its a shame other makers don't take the hint. Well, BMW does.
Back on track, tho. In the GM world, they have power programmers that allow the user to just plug in and change all sorts of parameters. Then, reproduce them at a whimsy.
I know, for a fact, that OBDII ECU's are reprogrammable, why else are Corvette ZO6's getting 750hp??? From OBDII compliant ECUs?
Now, Dinan used to provide a chip for OBDI Preludes. Bumped the limiter to 8100 or so. I am shocked that no one else makes such a chip, or, its not easily done. If there is such a chip for the Prelude VTEC, I would be willing to bet money it would work in a CL ECU. The programming is the key, and its all on the chip. If there is anything that Honda has done, is create commonality in parts. So many parts across platforms are common. Its great. Power window motors are the same within a chassis platform... power locks are the same, period... amazing. Its a shame other makers don't take the hint. Well, BMW does.
Back on track, tho. In the GM world, they have power programmers that allow the user to just plug in and change all sorts of parameters. Then, reproduce them at a whimsy.
#15
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Listen,
My good friend prgrams chips in his shop.
I ran my h22 on the cl ecu. Do you want to tell me how it ran?
The OBDI prelude chip going into a cl ecu.....YEAH RIGHT! I would love to see someone try that.
I did the swap. I spent $6000 because of little things like this. So $6000 worth of screw ups and wrongly purchased parts can give you some knowledge. This is the only point i am making.
IT IS NOT WORTH IT!
If he listens to me he will save alot of money and have a good running motor. I know this from going the wrong route.
ASK DCSQUIRM who went through the same exact thing.
My good friend prgrams chips in his shop.
I ran my h22 on the cl ecu. Do you want to tell me how it ran?
The OBDI prelude chip going into a cl ecu.....YEAH RIGHT! I would love to see someone try that.
I did the swap. I spent $6000 because of little things like this. So $6000 worth of screw ups and wrongly purchased parts can give you some knowledge. This is the only point i am making.
IT IS NOT WORTH IT!
If he listens to me he will save alot of money and have a good running motor. I know this from going the wrong route.
ASK DCSQUIRM who went through the same exact thing.
#16
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I am not challenging your direction, just the options that apparently don't exist.
Thats my bad.
it simply does not make sence that the ECUs are gonna be this ignorant.
Rewiring the OBDI will work, sure, but in CA its nothing short of a bitch.
And the way the north east is going, its not going to be any easier here.
Since the CL under my pseudo care is not mine, there is little chance it will ever be converted.
If I want a fast CL, I will save my pennies for one of those way bad 3.2 Type-S's!!!! COOL!
Thats my bad.
it simply does not make sence that the ECUs are gonna be this ignorant.
Rewiring the OBDI will work, sure, but in CA its nothing short of a bitch.
And the way the north east is going, its not going to be any easier here.
Since the CL under my pseudo care is not mine, there is little chance it will ever be converted.
If I want a fast CL, I will save my pennies for one of those way bad 3.2 Type-S's!!!! COOL!
#17
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understood.
The point of my first post was that since i have this done already, once i get my car back i will give him the colors specs for every wire he would need to change. At that point it will be like hooking up a car stereo. re-ran my wires to the OBDII ecu but soon found out about the immobilizer system. What a mess. If he goes OBDI then he can send his ecu out to hondata after he has all his mods and never have to worry about converting to OBDI.
This is why they sell OBDII to OBDI conversion harnesses because there really isn;t anything you can do with OBDII that numbs anyones hoodin.
The point of my first post was that since i have this done already, once i get my car back i will give him the colors specs for every wire he would need to change. At that point it will be like hooking up a car stereo. re-ran my wires to the OBDII ecu but soon found out about the immobilizer system. What a mess. If he goes OBDI then he can send his ecu out to hondata after he has all his mods and never have to worry about converting to OBDI.
This is why they sell OBDII to OBDI conversion harnesses because there really isn;t anything you can do with OBDII that numbs anyones hoodin.
#18
this will help you guys abit if you want
Wiring Conversion OBD2 to OBD1
OBD2 --- OBD1 ------Terminal Description
A4 ------- A1----- #1 Injector
A3 ------- A3----- #2 Injector
A2 ------- A5----- #3 Injector
A1 ------- A2----- #4 Injector
A11------ A25----- IGN Power 1 for ECU
A24 ----- B1----- IGN Power 2 for ECU
A10 ----- A23----- Power Ground 1 for ECU
A23 ----- A24----- Power Ground 2 for ECU
A9 ------- A26----- Logic Ground 1 for ECU
A22 ----- B2----- Logic Ground 2 for ECU
A15 ----- A20----- EVAP Purge Control Solenoid
A8 ------- A4----- VTEC Solenoid
A16 ----- A7----- Fuel Pump Relay
A18 ----- A13----- Malfunction Indicator Lamp
A27 ---- A21----- Radiator Fan Control
A12 - ----A9----- IACV (EACV)
D7 ------ D14----- Primary O2 Signal
A6 ------ A6 ----- Primary HO2 Heater Control
A26 ----- A17----- IAB (GSR)
A27 ----- A12----- Radiator Fan Control
C2 ------ B15----- CKP P
C12 ----- B16 ----- CKP G
C2 ------- B15 ----- CKP P
C12 ------- B16----- CKP G
C3 -------- B13----- TDC P
C13 ------- B14 ----- TDC G
C4 ------- B11----- CYP P
C14 ------ B12 ----- CYP G
A 17 ------ A15----- A/C Clutch relay
C5 ------ B5----- A/c Switch
C6 ------ B9 ----- Starter Switch Signal
C7 ------ D4 ----- Service check signal (Ignition timing adjusting cont)
C10 ----- D1----- DTC memory voltage
C15 ----- D6 ----- VTEC oil pressure
C16 ------B8 ----- Power steering pressure switch
D5 ------- D2----- Brake switch signal
C17 ----- D9 ----- Alternator FRsignal
A19 ----- A16 ----- Alternator control
D2D4 ------ D13 ----- ECT
D16 ------- D10----- ELD
D8 ------ D15 ----- IAT
D1 ------ D11----- TPS
C18 ------ B10 ----- VSS
D10 ------ D20----- Sensor voltage
D11 ------ D22----- Sensor ground
D3 ------ D17----- MAP
D4 ------ D19 ----- Map sensor voltage
D12 ----- D21----- MAP sensor ground
D6 ------ D3----- Knock sensor
i hope this will help you in your wiring problems....
make sure you get everything correct, if not you got yourself an engine light....
i think it better off showing this diagram to someone that knows these things...
just follow this chart you be alright.
i had to do the convertion, trust me it worth it, shifthing at 8 grand, wow what an improve ment, plus you get to play around with the computer. like add yourself a mugen chip.
Wiring Conversion OBD2 to OBD1
OBD2 --- OBD1 ------Terminal Description
A4 ------- A1----- #1 Injector
A3 ------- A3----- #2 Injector
A2 ------- A5----- #3 Injector
A1 ------- A2----- #4 Injector
A11------ A25----- IGN Power 1 for ECU
A24 ----- B1----- IGN Power 2 for ECU
A10 ----- A23----- Power Ground 1 for ECU
A23 ----- A24----- Power Ground 2 for ECU
A9 ------- A26----- Logic Ground 1 for ECU
A22 ----- B2----- Logic Ground 2 for ECU
A15 ----- A20----- EVAP Purge Control Solenoid
A8 ------- A4----- VTEC Solenoid
A16 ----- A7----- Fuel Pump Relay
A18 ----- A13----- Malfunction Indicator Lamp
A27 ---- A21----- Radiator Fan Control
A12 - ----A9----- IACV (EACV)
D7 ------ D14----- Primary O2 Signal
A6 ------ A6 ----- Primary HO2 Heater Control
A26 ----- A17----- IAB (GSR)
A27 ----- A12----- Radiator Fan Control
C2 ------ B15----- CKP P
C12 ----- B16 ----- CKP G
C2 ------- B15 ----- CKP P
C12 ------- B16----- CKP G
C3 -------- B13----- TDC P
C13 ------- B14 ----- TDC G
C4 ------- B11----- CYP P
C14 ------ B12 ----- CYP G
A 17 ------ A15----- A/C Clutch relay
C5 ------ B5----- A/c Switch
C6 ------ B9 ----- Starter Switch Signal
C7 ------ D4 ----- Service check signal (Ignition timing adjusting cont)
C10 ----- D1----- DTC memory voltage
C15 ----- D6 ----- VTEC oil pressure
C16 ------B8 ----- Power steering pressure switch
D5 ------- D2----- Brake switch signal
C17 ----- D9 ----- Alternator FRsignal
A19 ----- A16 ----- Alternator control
D2D4 ------ D13 ----- ECT
D16 ------- D10----- ELD
D8 ------ D15 ----- IAT
D1 ------ D11----- TPS
C18 ------ B10 ----- VSS
D10 ------ D20----- Sensor voltage
D11 ------ D22----- Sensor ground
D3 ------ D17----- MAP
D4 ------ D19 ----- Map sensor voltage
D12 ----- D21----- MAP sensor ground
D6 ------ D3----- Knock sensor
i hope this will help you in your wiring problems....
make sure you get everything correct, if not you got yourself an engine light....
i think it better off showing this diagram to someone that knows these things...
just follow this chart you be alright.
i had to do the convertion, trust me it worth it, shifthing at 8 grand, wow what an improve ment, plus you get to play around with the computer. like add yourself a mugen chip.
#19
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Originally posted by turbotk
understood.
The point of my first post was that since i have this done already, once i get my car back i will give him the colors specs for every wire he would need to change. At that point it will be like hooking up a car stereo. re-ran my wires to the OBDII ecu but soon found out about the immobilizer system. What a mess. If he goes OBDI then he can send his ecu out to hondata after he has all his mods and never have to worry about converting to OBDI.
This is why they sell OBDII to OBDI conversion harnesses because there really isn;t anything you can do with OBDII that numbs anyones hoodin.
understood.
The point of my first post was that since i have this done already, once i get my car back i will give him the colors specs for every wire he would need to change. At that point it will be like hooking up a car stereo. re-ran my wires to the OBDII ecu but soon found out about the immobilizer system. What a mess. If he goes OBDI then he can send his ecu out to hondata after he has all his mods and never have to worry about converting to OBDI.
This is why they sell OBDII to OBDI conversion harnesses because there really isn;t anything you can do with OBDII that numbs anyones hoodin.
conversion harness would make that a piece of cake.
now, this is a totally silly question... what would happen if you got the keys, ignition, locks and ECU? Would that override the immobilizer?
#21
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I am willing to bet you have never driven a Prelude VTEC.
If you had, you would understand.
The H22 is an amazing motor. Revs all day long, has power up to redline. Never runs out of breath.
Add a header, intake and catback, and man, its a real screamer.
Do a cam and some porting, raise compression, wow.
The H22 is the REAL Japanese version of the Small Block Chevy. So much power stock, light, increadably durable. I have NEVER heard of one blowing up.
If you had, you would understand.
The H22 is an amazing motor. Revs all day long, has power up to redline. Never runs out of breath.
Add a header, intake and catback, and man, its a real screamer.
Do a cam and some porting, raise compression, wow.
The H22 is the REAL Japanese version of the Small Block Chevy. So much power stock, light, increadably durable. I have NEVER heard of one blowing up.
#22
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Originally posted by bogus
damn. Honda makes this tough, don't they?
conversion harness would make that a piece of cake.
now, this is a totally silly question... what would happen if you got the keys, ignition, locks and ECU? Would that override the immobilizer?
damn. Honda makes this tough, don't they?
conversion harness would make that a piece of cake.
now, this is a totally silly question... what would happen if you got the keys, ignition, locks and ECU? Would that override the immobilizer?
yes, but you don't even have to do all of that. You can take it to honda when you rewire to the h22 ecu and they will hook it up to there little honda machine and re-program it to the new ecu.
The thing is, it wil cost at least $100 and you still have to re-wire the h22 OBDII ecu. This is why I just went ahead and went OBDI because to me it makes more sense. Point being, if you wired to OBDII then you might save $100 but you will eventually want to go OBDI especially on the h22, so if you do it twice you will end up paying around $600-$900 total for both wire jobs. I say just go OBDI and wait till all the little mods are on and send it out to hondata to get the master program. It just a better route. I did my swap purely for power, so of coarse if this is the case then OBDI is your friend otherwise OBDII can be a FUR BALL stuck in the back of your throat. lOL
#23
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Originally posted by bogus
I am willing to bet you have never driven a Prelude VTEC.
If you had, you would understand.
The H22 is an amazing motor. Revs all day long, has power up to redline. Never runs out of breath.
Add a header, intake and catback, and man, its a real screamer.
Do a cam and some porting, raise compression, wow.
The H22 is the REAL Japanese version of the Small Block Chevy. So much power stock, light, increadably durable. I have NEVER heard of one blowing up.
I am willing to bet you have never driven a Prelude VTEC.
If you had, you would understand.
The H22 is an amazing motor. Revs all day long, has power up to redline. Never runs out of breath.
Add a header, intake and catback, and man, its a real screamer.
Do a cam and some porting, raise compression, wow.
The H22 is the REAL Japanese version of the Small Block Chevy. So much power stock, light, increadably durable. I have NEVER heard of one blowing up.
well said. An h22 motor is the ROOT TO REAL HONDA POWER.
I didn't think it would add as much power as it did. I was very amazed and confident of completly leaving people at a stand still. Especially when I ripped a V8 stang. Well not ripped but beat him. Of coarse he was stock but still....
When you put headers, inatek, exhaust, etc. on an h22 the power gains (throught ALL the rpm's) are quite amazing. I did all the bolt-ons and my buddy has the same swap in an accord and I tour him a new exhaust hole. IT IS WELL WORTH IT. I WOULD HAVE NEVER GOT THAT MUCH POWER OUT OF MY F23.
The torque througout the powerband is ill and once those DOHC's start winding it is just sooo much fun.
ZING ZING ZING! LOL
#24
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The H22 is an amazing motor.
Its simply stunning how those things feel. When that VTEC kicks in, wow. Hold on.
Its akin to the old school V8's when the secondaries kick in!
Add a turbo and you are off and running!
Its simply stunning how those things feel. When that VTEC kicks in, wow. Hold on.
Its akin to the old school V8's when the secondaries kick in!
Add a turbo and you are off and running!
#26
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oh, man. the sound is incredable.
a friend of mine, who is a professional mechanic, was shocked the first time he heard it his VTEC. He was sure the engine was gonna jump out from under the hood!
It is demonic. Really really impressive.
The best thing is to light it up under an overpass or in a tunnel with the sunroof open - sounds like a Formula 1 car!!!!
a very impressive rip!
a friend of mine, who is a professional mechanic, was shocked the first time he heard it his VTEC. He was sure the engine was gonna jump out from under the hood!
It is demonic. Really really impressive.
The best thing is to light it up under an overpass or in a tunnel with the sunroof open - sounds like a Formula 1 car!!!!
a very impressive rip!
#30
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Seems like I missed all the fun. I never check out the gallery. Next time post stuff like this in the 1st gen section were it belongs.
Turbotk way to take care of things. He knows what he's talking about him and I have done and are doing the same swap. My friend that owns a shop has done alot of work on both our cars.
Theres no way around obd1 is the only way to go. Yeah sure you can use an obd2 ecu if you have the complete ignition system and key from the car the ecu came from but face it, it would be almost impossible to find. Obd1 is easier and better in the long run. If you come across a jdm p13 then you can even install a chip and theres tons of companys that make them from skunk2, mugen, jun and many more.
By the way I think you guys scared him away
.
Turbotk way to take care of things. He knows what he's talking about him and I have done and are doing the same swap. My friend that owns a shop has done alot of work on both our cars.
Theres no way around obd1 is the only way to go. Yeah sure you can use an obd2 ecu if you have the complete ignition system and key from the car the ecu came from but face it, it would be almost impossible to find. Obd1 is easier and better in the long run. If you come across a jdm p13 then you can even install a chip and theres tons of companys that make them from skunk2, mugen, jun and many more.
By the way I think you guys scared him away
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#31
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LOL.
Your car is gonna rip bro!
I got mine back from eba with a few check engine lights but I got them all off lastnight. upgrading to the prelude oxygen sensor really made my motor run smoother.
Lots of fun! I was also running some tests with a chipped p28 ecu and I liked the response that ecu has. Throttle response was great but the vtec did not kick like the p13, although I didn't mess with the idle/butterfly enough. I am going to work with it some more and i will let you know.
I can't wait till your car is done man. I hope you have LSD because I have a hard enough time not peeling alll the way through first and most through 2nd.
Your car is gonna rip bro!
I got mine back from eba with a few check engine lights but I got them all off lastnight. upgrading to the prelude oxygen sensor really made my motor run smoother.
Lots of fun! I was also running some tests with a chipped p28 ecu and I liked the response that ecu has. Throttle response was great but the vtec did not kick like the p13, although I didn't mess with the idle/butterfly enough. I am going to work with it some more and i will let you know.
I can't wait till your car is done man. I hope you have LSD because I have a hard enough time not peeling alll the way through first and most through 2nd.
#32
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Originally posted by turbotk
LOL.
Your car is gonna rip bro!
I got mine back from eba with a few check engine lights but I got them all off lastnight. upgrading to the prelude oxygen sensor really made my motor run smoother.
Lots of fun! I was also running some tests with a chipped p28 ecu and I liked the response that ecu has. Throttle response was great but the vtec did not kick like the p13, although I didn't mess with the idle/butterfly enough. I am going to work with it some more and i will let you know.
I can't wait till your car is done man. I hope you have LSD because I have a hard enough time not peeling alll the way through first and most through 2nd.
LOL.
Your car is gonna rip bro!
I got mine back from eba with a few check engine lights but I got them all off lastnight. upgrading to the prelude oxygen sensor really made my motor run smoother.
Lots of fun! I was also running some tests with a chipped p28 ecu and I liked the response that ecu has. Throttle response was great but the vtec did not kick like the p13, although I didn't mess with the idle/butterfly enough. I am going to work with it some more and i will let you know.
I can't wait till your car is done man. I hope you have LSD because I have a hard enough time not peeling alll the way through first and most through 2nd.
Glad to see your car is finally running good. How much did the lude o2 sensor run you? I think I might have one somewhere in eba's shop. Let me know what ecu works best with you.
Congrats on finally finshing your car, I hope mines done soon. Eba wants to enter my car in a car show on march 29 at the homstead race track, so will see.
#33
congrats man, your going to have so much fun with it...
your missing out on all the fun, the LSD is the best thing ever made
what a diffrence, i have a friend that has a lude no LSD
peels out like a champ, mine hooks right out of the hole...
awsome
but i'm trying to find a mechanic to do another swap for me
i'm want to buy a honda accord tranny, and swap my LSD over
honda accord have longer gears, good for turbo, plus when i do this swap
i need a flywheel and a new centerforce, so why not do it all at once.
your missing out on all the fun, the LSD is the best thing ever made
what a diffrence, i have a friend that has a lude no LSD
peels out like a champ, mine hooks right out of the hole...
awsome
but i'm trying to find a mechanic to do another swap for me
i'm want to buy a honda accord tranny, and swap my LSD over
honda accord have longer gears, good for turbo, plus when i do this swap
i need a flywheel and a new centerforce, so why not do it all at once.
#34
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just use your CL tranny. Did you get rid of yours? The gears should be as long. I still have mine if your interested.
Heads up on DC's swap though, he upgarded everything!
Cams
Pistons
P&P
NOS
-EVERYTHING!
The whole head and block are re-done.
The kid is going to woop some ass. LOL
DC - I got the O2 for about $20 from a friend. I got better throttle response and no more choking on low rpm's. I found out that the P13 is best but I think the p28 only ran my car smoother because it has a good TDC Sensor Module and for some reason mine doesn't, so i need to get that fixed. The p13 just rips soooo much more in vtec but the p28 had more power low end. When I bypassed my butterfly solenoid so that it is open at all times it seemed to make it better in low end but what I really think is holding i back is the TDC sensor. We will see.
Lastnight I straight piped the cat and bypasses my EGR VAlve and Butterfly Solenoid. That made the car run a lot better as well.
Once I get the module in my ecu fixed I am hoping that the TDC working will rocket me some more.
LSD- Pacific performance in ft. lauderdale has a phantom grip LSD for $260. It isn't the whole differential, it is the block thats distributes to the other side i guess but I have heard awesome reviews on it such as:
As reliable as $1000 lSD's
Even weight distribution on starts
distributes turning weight depending on turn radius
tested to 100,000 miles with no problems at all
easy to install etc.
I think I am going to try that one out so i can save money and get the type "s" cams at the same time.
One thing I have tosay about the swap is that JDM is faster stock on stock. My boy has the JDM swap and It just seems that his Vtec kicks in sooo much stronger. Maybe its the jdm cams and high octane fuel they rund over there.
I am not sure but I don't care. LOL
My shit is reliable, quick, and fun.
I can't complain.
Take it easy guys.
Heads up on DC's swap though, he upgarded everything!
Cams
Pistons
P&P
NOS
-EVERYTHING!
The whole head and block are re-done.
The kid is going to woop some ass. LOL
DC - I got the O2 for about $20 from a friend. I got better throttle response and no more choking on low rpm's. I found out that the P13 is best but I think the p28 only ran my car smoother because it has a good TDC Sensor Module and for some reason mine doesn't, so i need to get that fixed. The p13 just rips soooo much more in vtec but the p28 had more power low end. When I bypassed my butterfly solenoid so that it is open at all times it seemed to make it better in low end but what I really think is holding i back is the TDC sensor. We will see.
Lastnight I straight piped the cat and bypasses my EGR VAlve and Butterfly Solenoid. That made the car run a lot better as well.
Once I get the module in my ecu fixed I am hoping that the TDC working will rocket me some more.
LSD- Pacific performance in ft. lauderdale has a phantom grip LSD for $260. It isn't the whole differential, it is the block thats distributes to the other side i guess but I have heard awesome reviews on it such as:
As reliable as $1000 lSD's
Even weight distribution on starts
distributes turning weight depending on turn radius
tested to 100,000 miles with no problems at all
easy to install etc.
I think I am going to try that one out so i can save money and get the type "s" cams at the same time.
One thing I have tosay about the swap is that JDM is faster stock on stock. My boy has the JDM swap and It just seems that his Vtec kicks in sooo much stronger. Maybe its the jdm cams and high octane fuel they rund over there.
I am not sure but I don't care. LOL
My shit is reliable, quick, and fun.
I can't complain.
Take it easy guys.
#35
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do you still have those diagrams or know where i can find them. i have already hacked up my stock ecu and in the process of making my own jumper. the only problem that i found is the obd1 harness that i purchased has different colored wires than the diagrams that i have.
Originally posted by vtecpowersumo
i know how you feel buddy..
i had the stock computer in for a week you feel no diffrents..
what i did was got the wiring diagram for the honda prelude and the cl
and started cutting welding wirers together for obd1
then i put in the h22a computer..
wow trust me, once your done that you see a big ass diffrences.
or you can go and buy a jumper cable it about 200 and just plug that into your stock harness. and you got obd 1
i know how you feel buddy..
i had the stock computer in for a week you feel no diffrents..
what i did was got the wiring diagram for the honda prelude and the cl
and started cutting welding wirers together for obd1
then i put in the h22a computer..
wow trust me, once your done that you see a big ass diffrences.
or you can go and buy a jumper cable it about 200 and just plug that into your stock harness. and you got obd 1
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#36
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Originally posted by turbotk
YOU HAVE TO RE-WIRE YOU HARNESS TO THE OBDI ECU!!!
You are having no performance because you hooked up your cl ECU right? Right!
Take your car to a shop and have it re-wired to OBDI. I had a shop do that and it only cost $300.
Or when i get my car back this week I will go completly out of my way and hook you up with the correct wires. which ones go where etc.
Do you have the prelude wire harness?
YOU HAVE TO RE-WIRE YOU HARNESS TO THE OBDI ECU!!!
You are having no performance because you hooked up your cl ECU right? Right!
Take your car to a shop and have it re-wired to OBDI. I had a shop do that and it only cost $300.
Or when i get my car back this week I will go completly out of my way and hook you up with the correct wires. which ones go where etc.
Do you have the prelude wire harness?
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#37
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Originally posted by vtecpowersumo
this will help you guys abit if you want
Wiring Conversion OBD2 to OBD1
OBD2 --- OBD1 ------Terminal Description
A4 ------- A1----- #1 Injector
A3 ------- A3----- #2 Injector
A2 ------- A5----- #3 Injector
A1 ------- A2----- #4 Injector
A11------ A25----- IGN Power 1 for ECU
A24 ----- B1----- IGN Power 2 for ECU
A10 ----- A23----- Power Ground 1 for ECU
A23 ----- A24----- Power Ground 2 for ECU
A9 ------- A26----- Logic Ground 1 for ECU
A22 ----- B2----- Logic Ground 2 for ECU
A15 ----- A20----- EVAP Purge Control Solenoid
A8 ------- A4----- VTEC Solenoid
A16 ----- A7----- Fuel Pump Relay
A18 ----- A13----- Malfunction Indicator Lamp
A27 ---- A21----- Radiator Fan Control
A12 - ----A9----- IACV (EACV)
D7 ------ D14----- Primary O2 Signal
A6 ------ A6 ----- Primary HO2 Heater Control
A26 ----- A17----- IAB (GSR)
A27 ----- A12----- Radiator Fan Control
C2 ------ B15----- CKP P
C12 ----- B16 ----- CKP G
C2 ------- B15 ----- CKP P
C12 ------- B16----- CKP G
C3 -------- B13----- TDC P
C13 ------- B14 ----- TDC G
C4 ------- B11----- CYP P
C14 ------ B12 ----- CYP G
A 17 ------ A15----- A/C Clutch relay
C5 ------ B5----- A/c Switch
C6 ------ B9 ----- Starter Switch Signal
C7 ------ D4 ----- Service check signal (Ignition timing adjusting cont)
C10 ----- D1----- DTC memory voltage
C15 ----- D6 ----- VTEC oil pressure
C16 ------B8 ----- Power steering pressure switch
D5 ------- D2----- Brake switch signal
C17 ----- D9 ----- Alternator FRsignal
A19 ----- A16 ----- Alternator control
D2D4 ------ D13 ----- ECT
D16 ------- D10----- ELD
D8 ------ D15 ----- IAT
D1 ------ D11----- TPS
C18 ------ B10 ----- VSS
D10 ------ D20----- Sensor voltage
D11 ------ D22----- Sensor ground
D3 ------ D17----- MAP
D4 ------ D19 ----- Map sensor voltage
D12 ----- D21----- MAP sensor ground
D6 ------ D3----- Knock sensor
i hope this will help you in your wiring problems....
make sure you get everything correct, if not you got yourself an engine light....
i think it better off showing this diagram to someone that knows these things...
just follow this chart you be alright.
i had to do the convertion, trust me it worth it, shifthing at 8 grand, wow what an improve ment, plus you get to play around with the computer. like add yourself a mugen chip.
this will help you guys abit if you want
Wiring Conversion OBD2 to OBD1
OBD2 --- OBD1 ------Terminal Description
A4 ------- A1----- #1 Injector
A3 ------- A3----- #2 Injector
A2 ------- A5----- #3 Injector
A1 ------- A2----- #4 Injector
A11------ A25----- IGN Power 1 for ECU
A24 ----- B1----- IGN Power 2 for ECU
A10 ----- A23----- Power Ground 1 for ECU
A23 ----- A24----- Power Ground 2 for ECU
A9 ------- A26----- Logic Ground 1 for ECU
A22 ----- B2----- Logic Ground 2 for ECU
A15 ----- A20----- EVAP Purge Control Solenoid
A8 ------- A4----- VTEC Solenoid
A16 ----- A7----- Fuel Pump Relay
A18 ----- A13----- Malfunction Indicator Lamp
A27 ---- A21----- Radiator Fan Control
A12 - ----A9----- IACV (EACV)
D7 ------ D14----- Primary O2 Signal
A6 ------ A6 ----- Primary HO2 Heater Control
A26 ----- A17----- IAB (GSR)
A27 ----- A12----- Radiator Fan Control
C2 ------ B15----- CKP P
C12 ----- B16 ----- CKP G
C2 ------- B15 ----- CKP P
C12 ------- B16----- CKP G
C3 -------- B13----- TDC P
C13 ------- B14 ----- TDC G
C4 ------- B11----- CYP P
C14 ------ B12 ----- CYP G
A 17 ------ A15----- A/C Clutch relay
C5 ------ B5----- A/c Switch
C6 ------ B9 ----- Starter Switch Signal
C7 ------ D4 ----- Service check signal (Ignition timing adjusting cont)
C10 ----- D1----- DTC memory voltage
C15 ----- D6 ----- VTEC oil pressure
C16 ------B8 ----- Power steering pressure switch
D5 ------- D2----- Brake switch signal
C17 ----- D9 ----- Alternator FRsignal
A19 ----- A16 ----- Alternator control
D2D4 ------ D13 ----- ECT
D16 ------- D10----- ELD
D8 ------ D15 ----- IAT
D1 ------ D11----- TPS
C18 ------ B10 ----- VSS
D10 ------ D20----- Sensor voltage
D11 ------ D22----- Sensor ground
D3 ------ D17----- MAP
D4 ------ D19 ----- Map sensor voltage
D12 ----- D21----- MAP sensor ground
D6 ------ D3----- Knock sensor
i hope this will help you in your wiring problems....
make sure you get everything correct, if not you got yourself an engine light....
i think it better off showing this diagram to someone that knows these things...
just follow this chart you be alright.
i had to do the convertion, trust me it worth it, shifthing at 8 grand, wow what an improve ment, plus you get to play around with the computer. like add yourself a mugen chip.
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#38
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Originally posted by dcsquirm88
Seems like I missed all the fun. I never check out the gallery. Next time post stuff like this in the 1st gen section were it belongs.
Turbotk way to take care of things. He knows what he's talking about him and I have done and are doing the same swap. My friend that owns a shop has done alot of work on both our cars.
Theres no way around obd1 is the only way to go. Yeah sure you can use an obd2 ecu if you have the complete ignition system and key from the car the ecu came from but face it, it would be almost impossible to find. Obd1 is easier and better in the long run. If you come across a jdm p13 then you can even install a chip and theres tons of companys that make them from skunk2, mugen, jun and many more.
By the way I think you guys scared him away
.
Seems like I missed all the fun. I never check out the gallery. Next time post stuff like this in the 1st gen section were it belongs.
Turbotk way to take care of things. He knows what he's talking about him and I have done and are doing the same swap. My friend that owns a shop has done alot of work on both our cars.
Theres no way around obd1 is the only way to go. Yeah sure you can use an obd2 ecu if you have the complete ignition system and key from the car the ecu came from but face it, it would be almost impossible to find. Obd1 is easier and better in the long run. If you come across a jdm p13 then you can even install a chip and theres tons of companys that make them from skunk2, mugen, jun and many more.
By the way I think you guys scared him away
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