Rear washer camber "trick"
07-06-2005, 06:04 PM
#1
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Rear washer camber "trick"
The rear washer "trick" is basically using a longer bolt and adding washers, thus pushing your control arm out and correcting your rear camber.
Disclaimer: by using these guides, you are removing me from any liability that is related to any injury that might occur. I would suggest having a friend help you on these installs, if you are unsure about your abilities for any of these projects, get a professional to do it.
Credit goes to lemansteve (gte191u@mail.gatech.edu) for the original write up
Tools:
14mm socket
small socket wrench
torque wrench
1 jack and 1 stand, or 2 jacks
WD-40 or similar penetrant I would highly recommend getting a friend to help you do this project.
1. jack the rear corner up that you will be working on. be sure you have two jacks handy, since you will need one to compress the suspension later.
2. remove the wheel. this makes it easier to access the two bolts on the upper suspension arm.
*NOTE*
The next step would probably be easier/safer if the suspension were loaded up a bit. I did not preload it, and the upper arm popped out at me a little when i took out the 2nd bolt.
3. soak the bolts in WD40 or some other penetrating lube as a precaution. remove the two bolts holding the upper arm to the frame. my car has about 131k and about 7 New Jersey winters on it, and nothing was rusted, so yours probably isnt; dont worry about breaking a bolt.
4. if you havent already, load the suspension with the second jack, using the bottom of the knuckle as the jack point. i pushed it up about 3 inches. it will be almost impossible to install the new bolts if the suspension is not loaded first.
5. Ingalls says 1 washer adjusts camber about +0.25 degrees, and the kit comes with 6 washers, giving about +0.75 degrees of adjustment. insert washer(s) between arm and chassis, thread bolt into hole, and tighten to 28 ft-lbs. you are done.
Thats basically it. i'd say the most important part is having two jacks, since it was nearly impossible for me to get the new bolts started while trying to push and hold the upper arm in place.
Disclaimer: by using these guides, you are removing me from any liability that is related to any injury that might occur. I would suggest having a friend help you on these installs, if you are unsure about your abilities for any of these projects, get a professional to do it.
Credit goes to lemansteve (gte191u@mail.gatech.edu) for the original write up
Tools:
14mm socket
small socket wrench
torque wrench
1 jack and 1 stand, or 2 jacks
WD-40 or similar penetrant I would highly recommend getting a friend to help you do this project.
1. jack the rear corner up that you will be working on. be sure you have two jacks handy, since you will need one to compress the suspension later.
2. remove the wheel. this makes it easier to access the two bolts on the upper suspension arm.
*NOTE*
The next step would probably be easier/safer if the suspension were loaded up a bit. I did not preload it, and the upper arm popped out at me a little when i took out the 2nd bolt.
3. soak the bolts in WD40 or some other penetrating lube as a precaution. remove the two bolts holding the upper arm to the frame. my car has about 131k and about 7 New Jersey winters on it, and nothing was rusted, so yours probably isnt; dont worry about breaking a bolt.
4. if you havent already, load the suspension with the second jack, using the bottom of the knuckle as the jack point. i pushed it up about 3 inches. it will be almost impossible to install the new bolts if the suspension is not loaded first.
5. Ingalls says 1 washer adjusts camber about +0.25 degrees, and the kit comes with 6 washers, giving about +0.75 degrees of adjustment. insert washer(s) between arm and chassis, thread bolt into hole, and tighten to 28 ft-lbs. you are done.
Thats basically it. i'd say the most important part is having two jacks, since it was nearly impossible for me to get the new bolts started while trying to push and hold the upper arm in place.
07-25-2005, 04:02 AM
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Here's a little extra info:
you can only do 3 or so washers ont eh stock bolts, but if you plan on fixing more than 1 degree (about 3 washers) get longer bolts. these kind: 4 M10 x 1.25 x 50mm long bolts
good washers to use: SAE 3/8" (9,5 mm)
I used 7 or 8 washers on each bolt (same amount on each bolt per side, don't want any toe in/out) which corrected a little over 2 degrees camber. I just put teh bolts/washers on, then put the tire back on, and used a level and put it up against the tire. I am super picky so I made the bubble stay right in the middle, but as long as it's mostly in teh middle your good.
you can only do 3 or so washers ont eh stock bolts, but if you plan on fixing more than 1 degree (about 3 washers) get longer bolts. these kind: 4 M10 x 1.25 x 50mm long bolts
good washers to use: SAE 3/8" (9,5 mm)
I used 7 or 8 washers on each bolt (same amount on each bolt per side, don't want any toe in/out) which corrected a little over 2 degrees camber. I just put teh bolts/washers on, then put the tire back on, and used a level and put it up against the tire. I am super picky so I made the bubble stay right in the middle, but as long as it's mostly in teh middle your good.
07-25-2005, 04:19 AM
#3
Im No Superman
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YES! thanks for posting this one up klepto i got ur pm months ago on this and lost the link to the DIY.. eventually i wanna end up trying this.. any other tips anybody?
10-06-2005, 09:48 PM
#5
Insert Sarcasm Here
also, is it a bad idea to add the washers to only one side? I know my camber is only off on one side, so I would really only need to do that side.
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07-10-2006, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ghost_masterCL
Here's a little extra info:
you can only do 3 or so washers ont eh stock bolts, but if you plan on fixing more than 1 degree (about 3 washers) get longer bolts. these kind: 4 M10 x 1.25 x 50mm long bolts
good washers to use: SAE 3/8" (9,5 mm)
I used 7 or 8 washers on each bolt (same amount on each bolt per side, don't want any toe in/out) which corrected a little over 2 degrees camber. I just put teh bolts/washers on, then put the tire back on, and used a level and put it up against the tire. I am super picky so I made the bubble stay right in the middle, but as long as it's mostly in teh middle your good.
you can only do 3 or so washers ont eh stock bolts, but if you plan on fixing more than 1 degree (about 3 washers) get longer bolts. these kind: 4 M10 x 1.25 x 50mm long bolts
good washers to use: SAE 3/8" (9,5 mm)
I used 7 or 8 washers on each bolt (same amount on each bolt per side, don't want any toe in/out) which corrected a little over 2 degrees camber. I just put teh bolts/washers on, then put the tire back on, and used a level and put it up against the tire. I am super picky so I made the bubble stay right in the middle, but as long as it's mostly in teh middle your good.
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