Rear deck/Rear speaker removal and vibration reduction
07-18-2011, 12:41 PM
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Rear deck/Rear speaker removal and vibration reduction
Disclaimer: by using these guides, you are removing me from any liability that is related to any injury that might occur. I would suggest having a friend help you on these installs, if you are unsure about your abilities for any of these projects, get a professional to do it
I was not going for looks here, just clarity of sound. I am sure that there are better ways of stopping the rattle than the method I used, but money was tight and I could not stand the rattle from the sub any longer. Also, I wrote this up really fast on my lunch break, and it is my first time doing one so let me know if any other information or clarity is needed.
Tools/supplies: large socket wrench w/10mm socket and extension, small socket wrench w/ 8mm socket and extension, large and small flathead screwdrivers, exacto knife,rubber (I used 4” wide strips), sound deadening material, new 6 x 9’s (optional).
Heres the materials I used
DSCN1108.jpg?t=1311010455
DSCN1107.jpg?t=1311010490
1. First step is to take out the back seat. Lift up the bottom cushion to give access to the 4 bolts that hold the seat back on. This is where the large 10mm socket comes in. I suggest to leave the front hinge points on the bottom cushion so you can fold it back down to have something to kneel on while your back there doing the rest of the work. After the four bolts are removed push up on the seat back to free it from the 3 hooks holding the top in. Remove seat.
DSCN1103.jpg?t=1311009727
2. Next is getting the rear deck piece out. First grab your 8mm socket to take out the 2 nuts holding the 3rd break light in place, these are located in the trunk through access holes (hence the extension). I suggest removing the plug before removing the nuts to keep it from moving around. Next are the 3 black Christmas tree clips revealed after removing the seat back (small screw driver). Then take the seatbelts out of the slots. Now the rear deck panel should be loose except for the Christmas tree clips near the rear window. You will need to lift the panel and use the large flathead to get at these. I was too lazy to remove the rear A pillars, but was able to bend the panel enough to free it from behind them. Note that the panel is quite flexible so I wouldn’t be too worried about snapping or deforming it. Good luck with these rear Christmas tree clips, I could not locate them from the trunk so the only way I found to free them was to carefully pry them with the large screwdriver. After those clips are removed, the panel should come free.
DSCN1104.jpg?t=1311009796
DSCN1105.jpg?t=1311009845
3. Next is removing the speakers, easiest stock speakers I have removed. Just remove the wire connection plugs and remove the 8 screws, should be the 8mm socket, just without the extension.
DSCN1113.jpg?t=1311009948
4. Now, depending on if you are installing new speakers or not, use the template that comes with the new speakers or make your own by tracing the hole in the rear deck. Now, cut out the rubber rings that will be mounted between the deck and the speaker. They also make pre-cut sound deadening kits for this, but they can be expensive. After that just stick them to the deck so the speaker will make a complete seal.
DSCN1114.jpg?t=1311009987
DSCN1119.jpg?t=1311010064
5. If you are reinstalling the old speakers, do that next and skip to step. If you are installing new speakers with spade connectors, I found a nice trick to save some time and effort. They stock plug is nothing more than a case for female spade connectors. The case folds open as shown, then just use a thumb tack or something of the sort to push in the inside metal pins and they come right out. This gives you the option of installing the old connector and spears later if necessary. Now just install the new speakers (I had to use the hardware that came with the new ones because of clearance issues.
DSCN1123.jpg?t=1311010107
6. Next, comes the part that just takes good judgment in deciding where to put the rubber. Unless you just buy dynamat or something like that and just cover the whole rear deck. I personally didn’t feel like forking out $80+ for the stuff. Just look for all of the high points that look like they wouldn’t hit the foam on the rear deck panel. Also around the speaker grill where those plastic clips might not be covered by the foam. See pictures for main points. Another spot I put a small amount of rubber on was the top of the 3rd break light. It looks like there was only very small clearance between it and the back window.
Untitled1.png?t=1311010188
Untitled2.png?t=1311010222
7. Once you are satisfied with the coverage and are certain that all rubbing/vibration points are covered, reinstall the rear deck panel. Try and get as many of those Christmas tree clips back in as possible to keep it from hitting the back window. It’s tough, but I got 3 of the 4 back in lining them up with the large screwdriver.
8. Next is the back seat to be put back in following the reverse steps, but before you do that make sure that metal hooks all have the original plastic sleeves on them, or use electrical or duct tape like I did to prevent any metal to metal contact.
DSCN1120.jpg?t=1311010273
DSCN1121.jpg?t=1311010309
9. Last I repositioned my sub so that the port faced the ski pass. Then I wrapped my insulation around it so that it formed a seal between the back seat and the front of the sub box to prevent pressure buildup in the trunk reducing rattling of trunk and rear deck. As I stated, it may not be the prettiest thing, but produced maximum clarity.
DSCN1126.jpg?t=1311010389
DSCN1125.jpg?t=1311010349
I hope this helps some of you. I didn’t think I was going to be doing a write-up so I didn’t have as many pictures as I would have liked, but hopefully this at least gives you a good idea of what I did.
Patrick
I was not going for looks here, just clarity of sound. I am sure that there are better ways of stopping the rattle than the method I used, but money was tight and I could not stand the rattle from the sub any longer. Also, I wrote this up really fast on my lunch break, and it is my first time doing one so let me know if any other information or clarity is needed.
Tools/supplies: large socket wrench w/10mm socket and extension, small socket wrench w/ 8mm socket and extension, large and small flathead screwdrivers, exacto knife,rubber (I used 4” wide strips), sound deadening material, new 6 x 9’s (optional).
Heres the materials I used
DSCN1108.jpg?t=1311010455
DSCN1107.jpg?t=1311010490
1. First step is to take out the back seat. Lift up the bottom cushion to give access to the 4 bolts that hold the seat back on. This is where the large 10mm socket comes in. I suggest to leave the front hinge points on the bottom cushion so you can fold it back down to have something to kneel on while your back there doing the rest of the work. After the four bolts are removed push up on the seat back to free it from the 3 hooks holding the top in. Remove seat.
DSCN1103.jpg?t=1311009727
2. Next is getting the rear deck piece out. First grab your 8mm socket to take out the 2 nuts holding the 3rd break light in place, these are located in the trunk through access holes (hence the extension). I suggest removing the plug before removing the nuts to keep it from moving around. Next are the 3 black Christmas tree clips revealed after removing the seat back (small screw driver). Then take the seatbelts out of the slots. Now the rear deck panel should be loose except for the Christmas tree clips near the rear window. You will need to lift the panel and use the large flathead to get at these. I was too lazy to remove the rear A pillars, but was able to bend the panel enough to free it from behind them. Note that the panel is quite flexible so I wouldn’t be too worried about snapping or deforming it. Good luck with these rear Christmas tree clips, I could not locate them from the trunk so the only way I found to free them was to carefully pry them with the large screwdriver. After those clips are removed, the panel should come free.
DSCN1104.jpg?t=1311009796
DSCN1105.jpg?t=1311009845
3. Next is removing the speakers, easiest stock speakers I have removed. Just remove the wire connection plugs and remove the 8 screws, should be the 8mm socket, just without the extension.
DSCN1113.jpg?t=1311009948
4. Now, depending on if you are installing new speakers or not, use the template that comes with the new speakers or make your own by tracing the hole in the rear deck. Now, cut out the rubber rings that will be mounted between the deck and the speaker. They also make pre-cut sound deadening kits for this, but they can be expensive. After that just stick them to the deck so the speaker will make a complete seal.
DSCN1114.jpg?t=1311009987
DSCN1119.jpg?t=1311010064
5. If you are reinstalling the old speakers, do that next and skip to step. If you are installing new speakers with spade connectors, I found a nice trick to save some time and effort. They stock plug is nothing more than a case for female spade connectors. The case folds open as shown, then just use a thumb tack or something of the sort to push in the inside metal pins and they come right out. This gives you the option of installing the old connector and spears later if necessary. Now just install the new speakers (I had to use the hardware that came with the new ones because of clearance issues.
DSCN1123.jpg?t=1311010107
6. Next, comes the part that just takes good judgment in deciding where to put the rubber. Unless you just buy dynamat or something like that and just cover the whole rear deck. I personally didn’t feel like forking out $80+ for the stuff. Just look for all of the high points that look like they wouldn’t hit the foam on the rear deck panel. Also around the speaker grill where those plastic clips might not be covered by the foam. See pictures for main points. Another spot I put a small amount of rubber on was the top of the 3rd break light. It looks like there was only very small clearance between it and the back window.
Untitled1.png?t=1311010188
Untitled2.png?t=1311010222
7. Once you are satisfied with the coverage and are certain that all rubbing/vibration points are covered, reinstall the rear deck panel. Try and get as many of those Christmas tree clips back in as possible to keep it from hitting the back window. It’s tough, but I got 3 of the 4 back in lining them up with the large screwdriver.
8. Next is the back seat to be put back in following the reverse steps, but before you do that make sure that metal hooks all have the original plastic sleeves on them, or use electrical or duct tape like I did to prevent any metal to metal contact.
DSCN1120.jpg?t=1311010273
DSCN1121.jpg?t=1311010309
9. Last I repositioned my sub so that the port faced the ski pass. Then I wrapped my insulation around it so that it formed a seal between the back seat and the front of the sub box to prevent pressure buildup in the trunk reducing rattling of trunk and rear deck. As I stated, it may not be the prettiest thing, but produced maximum clarity.
DSCN1126.jpg?t=1311010389
DSCN1125.jpg?t=1311010349
I hope this helps some of you. I didn’t think I was going to be doing a write-up so I didn’t have as many pictures as I would have liked, but hopefully this at least gives you a good idea of what I did.
Patrick
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