Front POLY Motor mount Inserts
12-11-2005, 04:00 PM
#1
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Front POLY Motor mount Inserts
OK Today kids, we are going to install a front poly motor mount insert from Energy suspension
First off I would like to say that if you don’t want the vibration of the car when idling, please don’t do this.
The purpose for the Poly inserts are to stiffen the motor mounts so there is limited rocking of the motor. Less rocking more power to the wheels.
LINK TO PRODUCT: http://www.racerwheel.com/e12-161108-g.html
THE COLOR DOESNT MATTER: HOWEVER< THE black ones are infused with a new material that will prevent sqweaking
When your package arrives you will recieve two inserts for the front only. The front is known as the "torque mount". This mount helps keep the motor from flexing in the engine bay, but does a poor job at it if your car is getting to the older stage in life, or you drive very hard
TOOLS: There are several Tools and Items you will need:
Motor Mount Inserts
10mm, 14mm, and 17mm socket
Ratchet(if possible a air ratchet)
Jack
And most important tool, Your Brain!!
Caution: Do not remove bolts when engine is hot. This will cause the bolts to sheer off.
FRAME MOUNT BOLTS : Note: These bolt are bolted down very securely, this will take a lot of force to loosen up these bolts. You dont need to take them off though and ill show you why.
On to the Install:
Take a good look at your engine bay: And get ready
FIRST Grab a beer and take a sip.
Now, take a pocket jack or regular jack and support the motor so the mount can be taken off. ( just apply enough pressure to see the motor lift 1/16 of an inch.
When your done with your beer, put it down.
To get to the fan removal, first take the bolts im pointing to out and remove the brackets that hold the radiator so it can move in more, for easier fan removal.
Remove the fan that’s in front of the motor mount. First, push the radiator in so you have room to wedge the fan out. There will be four bolts to remove. Completely remove the two upper bolts and the two lower bolts. After doing so disconnect the wiring harness that is on the fan, tward its left, if your viewing the assembly from the front of the vehicle.Pull fan out of the way. Its a tight sqweeze to get it out, but just wedge it in and out.
The lower two bolts as well
and the bolt to the left of that one as well ( not picture )
I would recommend you leave that bolt out since its a bitch to put back on and you wont need it. Three bolts is good enough.
Once all that is done, Be sure to take another sip of your beer. Then, proceed to the three bolts that are holding the motor mount to the block. These require force and you will have to grow some mucles or use an air tool/torque wrench. I, personaly found these bolts to be 80 foot pounds tightend, so you'll need about 100 to loosen them, depending on age.
Once those are off, remove the the bolt that holds it all together inside the rubber mount assembly. THIS BOLT REQUIRES ALOT OF TQ TO GET OFF. I use a 150 ft pound breaker bar for this and an impact wrench. AIR TOOLS ARENT REQUIRED but wanted on something like this.
Once that bolt is off you'll see your objective. Take the two motor mount inserts and you will notice three dimples on the inside of them. Make sure these go in the right way by matching the dimples to the raised rubber mount peices ( look like thick hair on the motor mount assembly ) and Tap them into place with a hammer or your air tool.
You'll now need a clamp. You can pick one up at any auto store or homedepot..etc.
go around each corner and twist the clamp down and undo. Do this on each of the four corners and tward the middle.Im pointing to the clamp point. You'll need to go around ALL corners.
Once its in your DONE !!! The Installation is complete and all you need to do is manipulate the Top portion of the motor mount back into place and do the reverse process of the disasembly.
When done crank the car and watch the engine. It should have vertually no movement. If there is movement there is a bolt loss or missing.
OH and a sneek peek at the Catch can Install
First off I would like to say that if you don’t want the vibration of the car when idling, please don’t do this.
The purpose for the Poly inserts are to stiffen the motor mounts so there is limited rocking of the motor. Less rocking more power to the wheels.
LINK TO PRODUCT: http://www.racerwheel.com/e12-161108-g.html
THE COLOR DOESNT MATTER: HOWEVER< THE black ones are infused with a new material that will prevent sqweaking
When your package arrives you will recieve two inserts for the front only. The front is known as the "torque mount". This mount helps keep the motor from flexing in the engine bay, but does a poor job at it if your car is getting to the older stage in life, or you drive very hard
TOOLS: There are several Tools and Items you will need:
Motor Mount Inserts
10mm, 14mm, and 17mm socket
Ratchet(if possible a air ratchet)
Jack
And most important tool, Your Brain!!
Caution: Do not remove bolts when engine is hot. This will cause the bolts to sheer off.
FRAME MOUNT BOLTS : Note: These bolt are bolted down very securely, this will take a lot of force to loosen up these bolts. You dont need to take them off though and ill show you why.
On to the Install:
Take a good look at your engine bay: And get ready
FIRST Grab a beer and take a sip.
Now, take a pocket jack or regular jack and support the motor so the mount can be taken off. ( just apply enough pressure to see the motor lift 1/16 of an inch.
When your done with your beer, put it down.
To get to the fan removal, first take the bolts im pointing to out and remove the brackets that hold the radiator so it can move in more, for easier fan removal.
Remove the fan that’s in front of the motor mount. First, push the radiator in so you have room to wedge the fan out. There will be four bolts to remove. Completely remove the two upper bolts and the two lower bolts. After doing so disconnect the wiring harness that is on the fan, tward its left, if your viewing the assembly from the front of the vehicle.Pull fan out of the way. Its a tight sqweeze to get it out, but just wedge it in and out.
The lower two bolts as well
and the bolt to the left of that one as well ( not picture ) I would recommend you leave that bolt out since its a bitch to put back on and you wont need it. Three bolts is good enough.
Once all that is done, Be sure to take another sip of your beer. Then, proceed to the three bolts that are holding the motor mount to the block. These require force and you will have to grow some mucles or use an air tool/torque wrench. I, personaly found these bolts to be 80 foot pounds tightend, so you'll need about 100 to loosen them, depending on age.
Once those are off, remove the the bolt that holds it all together inside the rubber mount assembly. THIS BOLT REQUIRES ALOT OF TQ TO GET OFF. I use a 150 ft pound breaker bar for this and an impact wrench. AIR TOOLS ARENT REQUIRED but wanted on something like this.
Once that bolt is off you'll see your objective. Take the two motor mount inserts and you will notice three dimples on the inside of them. Make sure these go in the right way by matching the dimples to the raised rubber mount peices ( look like thick hair on the motor mount assembly ) and Tap them into place with a hammer or your air tool.
You'll now need a clamp. You can pick one up at any auto store or homedepot..etc.
go around each corner and twist the clamp down and undo. Do this on each of the four corners and tward the middle.Im pointing to the clamp point. You'll need to go around ALL corners.
Once its in your DONE !!! The Installation is complete and all you need to do is manipulate the Top portion of the motor mount back into place and do the reverse process of the disasembly.
When done crank the car and watch the engine. It should have vertually no movement. If there is movement there is a bolt loss or missing.
OH and a sneek peek at the Catch can Install
12-12-2005, 08:49 AM
#4
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Nice diy, I like how u clearly point to all the bolts. Nice work 
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12-12-2005, 09:04 PM
#9
nice thanks alot man. even though energy are good im gonna get original honda ones because i work at a honda dealership and it will be cheaper for me. i hope to do this myself unless ofcourse im busy other wise ill let the honda mechanics at work do it.
by the way whats all that shit in that test tube looking thing??
by the way whats all that shit in that test tube looking thing??
12-13-2005, 12:34 AM
#10
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All that shit in that "tube" is Oil !!! OIL that would normaly go straight to your intake manifold, dirty-ing it up. Think.. that oil in my catch can is only from 2 weeks of driving 
i empty it every 2 weeks the shiney shit is course steal wool. I used it as a baffle, to keep the oil down in the catch can /tube.
i empty it every 2 weeks the shiney shit is course steal wool. I used it as a baffle, to keep the oil down in the catch can /tube.
08-19-2008, 12:33 AM
#11
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Where does this catch can go on the engine and is it factory or aftermarket? I always have oil in the intake manifold but I'm not quite sure if it's coming in through the PCV system or not.
Originally Posted by ayougo
All that shit in that "tube" is Oil !!! OIL that would normaly go straight to your intake manifold, dirty-ing it up. Think.. that oil in my catch can is only from 2 weeks of driving i empty it every 2 weeks the shiney shit is course steal wool. I used it as a baffle, to keep the oil down in the catch can /tube.
i empty it every 2 weeks the shiney shit is course steal wool. I used it as a baffle, to keep the oil down in the catch can /tube.
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