Tools needed:
- wrenches
- socket wrenches
- jack and jack stand

1. Jack the car up and put on a jack stand. You will need the jack later in the install to support the suspension. Once the car is up in the air remove the wheel.

2. In order to install the camber kits you will need remove some bolts in the engine bay. Lift your hood and take the strut bar off. Once you have done this you will need to remove the two fuse boxes (circled in picture) that cover the two necessary bolts to remove the control arm (there isn’t any fuse boxes on the drivers side).


3. After the fuse boxes have been removed support the suspension with the jack before you unbolt the bolts.


4. Once you have removed the fuse boxes unbolt the two bolts holding the control to the body. The two bolts are circled in the picture.


5. When the two bolts are removed the control should drop down. If not lightly tap it with a rubber mallet and you should be good.



6. Each stock camber kit (don’t know the correct term for the stock camber kit) has a bolt attaching it to the control arm. These bolts will need to be removed to take the old kit out and replace it with a new one.



7. Once you have removed the old camber kits go ahead and put the new ones in. Depending on what camber kit you buy, the way or direction the camber kit is installed will differ. If you buy the ingalls, which were installed in this DIY on klepto’s car, the shaft that corrects the camber kit slides up and down. The worse your camber is the closer the shaft needs to be the edge of the kit. In the pic you will notice the old ingalls camber kits that were on the car was as far from the edge as possible because the camber on the car wasn’t very bad. Once you know how where you want the shaft to be go ahead and tighten the nut which is connected to the shaft. The good thing with the ingalls is you don’t really have to know how bad your camber is because when u take it in for an alignment they just move the shaft back and forth.

If you buy the knock off camber kits from ebay there isn’t a shaft that moves. Rather, the long screw is installed in one of two holes. Just look at the illustration which comes with the directions to see which hole to screw the bolt in to fix what degree of negative camber.


8. Once you have determined the degree of camber that needs to be fixed, go ahead and install the new camber kit back onto the control arm and reverse steps 2-5. To install the camber on the opposite side repeat these steps except for step 2. The drivers side doesn’t have any fuse boxes to worry about.


We can thank klepto’s car for being the guinea pig for this diy. The install should take you about 45 minutes to an hour for each wheel. The difficulty of this project is pretty low. If you are able to work on your car you will be able to do this. Have Fun!

 

this is exactly what i needed!! THANX

 

thanx man. good write up

 

ive got the ingalls installed but every time i hit a fat bump it hits the wheel well. do you know which part to cut off? i cut some off a little chunk(helps a lil) where the two peices of the frame meets.

do you know which peice? it only happens on the driver side. i think the person that adjusted gave me + camber on one side.

 

umm i think that might be your control arm, some people shave it down a little bit, but you dont want to shave it down [i]too]/i] much

 

i did the install.. i havent gotten an alignment yet.. how important is that?

after i installed the camber.. i fastened down everything.. put the wheels back on.. and i cruised around.. and there where two LOUD pops.. on from my left side.. and one from my right.. im not sure if i messed up on something.. or if this is normal..

and every time i shift my car into reverse.. the car kinda makes a light knock on wood sound.. like thump.. thump.. but its really quiet..

i hope i didnt mess anything up..

as for the camber.. it seems pretty straight to me..

o.. and the steering got alot less stiff.. is this normal? i was driving around with bad camber adjustment for so long that i forgot how the CL handles with regular camber...

anywho.. any answers to these questions would be much appreciated

 

bump ^^

 

check to see if your control arm is hitting the top of the fender. does it make noises all the time or just when youre going over bumps etc? you should get an alignment asap

 

i take it that the alignment is a pretty big deal.. haha..

as for the sound.. it usually comes up when i hit a bump while reversing..

very odd..

 

It is my understanding that the kits with rubber bushings make less noise than the kits with the polyurathane bushings, however, they don't last as long and are more expensive.

Is this your expirence? Do the rubber bushings make less noise?

 

i thought it was the other way around..

 

http://www.ingallseng.com/faq.htm


Polyurethane bushings are designed for a performance like ride. Polyurethane may squeak if not properly lubricated. You should use a lubricant that will not wash away. Once the lubricant is washed out or contaminated from road grime the lubricant will no longer be effective. This can cause premature wear on the bushings. You will need to re-lubricate.
Rubber bushings are designed for the "street" use only vehicle. They provide a more factory like ride. These bushings do not need to be lubricated, but will not provide you with that "tight" suspension feel.

 

the two popping noises that u heard when u first drove is normal. its just everything setting in place.

the thumping u hear when u go in reverese i dont know about. i havnt had that problem nor have i read about it.

like klepto said. u should shave down ur control arm a little and shave the innner finder where there is a crease (sp). that helped my bottoming out issue a lot.

rubber bushings make no/little noise wheras the polyurethane bushings make a whole lot of noise. they have to be constantly lubricated or all u'll hear is squeaking.

 

cool, sweet! thats all i needed to know

thanx for the write up guyz

 

how do you do the ball joint type camber kit for the front? i got the eibach ones and cant get the factory ball joints out.

is it just easier for the alignment shop to install it or is there a special tool i need to get them out?

 

im not sure about the ball joint kit.. i didnt even know they made it for the 94-97 accord..

probably taking it to the shop would be a better choice when it comes to ball joints and control arms.. i heard those can be dangerous if u dont know what you're doing..

 

Just gonna bump this because it's useful :-)

 

So If I understand this right, you use 2 of the camber kit pieces on the front left and 2 of them on the front right?? so do you not do the back or do you need something else?? im a little lost...help??