azian_rain

Most people would recomend you remove the hub-over-rotor assembly with a puller or press from the knuckle, but it is much simpler than that.

What I did was took the knuckle-hub/rotor assembly off the car and then backed out the bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle:




Then I used a hammer and tapped on the bolt heads to get the hub out of the knuckle:





Be careful and tap all bolts evenly so it comes out smooth.

iansanderson

lol. You obviously live somewhere it never snows.

This is a nice write-up for those who live in the South. I wish it worked like that for everybody, but if your CL has been exposed to road salt, this procedure may not work.

azian_rain

LOL, yeah I don't live where it snows. What would you do if it is rusted to knuckle then? Replace the whole assembly?

iansanderson

No.. the hub can become frozen in the knuckle from the use of road salt and you need a very strong press to separate the two. It makes the process of replacing front disks even more of a job.

I had an Accord I bought from Florida and the two separated just like yours did.. it was heaven.. On the other hand, my Accord before that one lived its life in Ohio. I had to take both knuckles off and to the dealer.

They used this industrial press to separate the two and when they finally came apart, the brake disc exploded on the floor from all the pressure.

kmlance

only things i will ad is that the best way i found was to place two 4x4's on the bench and allow rotor to sit on this. otherwise hub hits bench after moving 1/4". also, when viewing from the back (where the hub bolts go) the entire "center section" will come out. so if you have a large socket or pipe that will fill the diameter of the whole that will work along with hammering on bolts. DO NOT hit bolt heads!!!! make sure they are in at least 3 full turns and then put a socket on the heads before hammering! not as bad as it seems!!!!

YL Al

tapped on mine for 2 months now, i ended up going up to the second floor and luanching the assemebly down on the concrete lol

i go down and take a look,...nothing changed

1997 Acura CL 2.2 Premium

Is this for all CL's? I have a '97 2.2 and I am certain that the passenger side front is needing replacement. Are the backs just bolt on? I would think to just replace all four along with rotors and brake hoses considering the age.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

It's for all 97's yes, if you're going to replace them, look into a rotor over hub conversion

ACL512

I have to ask doesn't this strip the bolts? just asking I mean if your hammering a bolt wouldn't it mess up the threads?

Eband27

No, because the threads are on the hub part, not the knucle, so by hammerring those bolts, your separating the hub/wheel bearing assemble from the knuckle. Tap it following an X pattern, so u dont get the wheel bearing jammed in its race.

I did the same job on my mom's 1992 accord. The have the same design. It took me 5 hours to replace both discs and both driveshaft axles. Btw guys, i live in Montreal, our stupid city probably uses more salt in the winter than there is in the world.... its really, really bad, if ur interested, google it. And that accord has been in our winter since 1992.... the bearing assemble came out, well, it wasn't easy, but it came out. Didn't take more than 10 minuts of banging and crowbaring and chiselling. But it came out! So dont worry about your CL's

1997 Acura CL 2.2 Premium

I am having trouble finding rear bearings, does this car have them? 97 2.2 CL

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-95...item4837f099ee

Crouching

This doesent apply to 99 3.0's does it?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

nope, only the 97's

skatinnatin

How about the 98 3.0 CL? Does it have the same design as the 97 or the 99?

TexasTony6777

If it went together. A little love and a BFH can solve anything.

Iagent

This is by far the best explanation of how to seperate without presses or pullers.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xIUAMl-oRQ

Enjoy!