Is there really a reason to spend the extra $130 more for the second ones? Isnt it all the same crap?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HYPER...spagenameZWD1V
Or the more expensive ones
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-97...spagenameZWD1V


Comments?

 

That will probably take so long to install all of those!

 

I thought the same thing when I saw that Ad.

 

lol.. you really answered his question..

 

It's a bitch and very involved, if I had to do it over again, since I have the first kit, I'd get the more expensive one, that comes with more stuff

 

OMG do you need all of that to get rid of squeaky springs?!?!

 

On our 10 y/o rust buckets yes But no it's not for squeaky springs, it's to replace all the crappy rubber bushings that are disintegrating from age, believe me my front suspension colapsed on me. I have the master kit, but it doesn't replace all the rear arm bushings. It's a bad ass kit though, I'd much rather have the full kit, that kit wasn't available when I got the master

 

So the second one comes with more stuff? Thats the difference?

 

 

id get it if i were planning on keeping the car for a while.

in my case, proably yeah.

i might get it, i wonder how much it costs to have it installed?

 

And its a pain in the ass to do it yourself? How long would it take?

 

Hours, depends on what equipment you have. I paid my suspension guy to press in all the bushings for me and it took him a few hours, hardest part he said was breaking all the old bushings and balljoints out. Pressing them in isn't hard, he had a lift, air tools, and a hydraulic press. Cost me a couple hundred of labor, but was well worth it.

 

When we changed my clutch it was pretty evident that I needed newer front suspension... Half the stuff was basically falling apart...

 

That def happens on our cars hardcore, my front right suspension collapsed from faulty bushings

 

My front drivers side started squeeking when I put everything back on after the clutch. I'm not sure what it is, but I need some serious work up there to keep myself happy.

 

Well, this may be my last ditch effort to get this bitch ridding normal.. If this does not work, she is gone. Im not sinking any more money into it, just on a wing and a prayer.

 

If you're doing the whole bushing set, your suspension will be totally different. I know mine was, and like I've said before, my bushings were disintegrated, it's amazing what new ball joints and bushings will do for a suspension.

 

to me it just looks like ur paying for the Name Brand. Prothane Vs. Generic.

email the guy selling the cheap one and ask if thats all it comes with

 

Different how?

Right now, the way my car is, if I go over a bump with the right tire, the steering wheel will jerk to the right.. Vice versa with the other side... If the road is uneven I will have to fight the steering wheel.... On a perfectly straight smooth road with no bumps or dips, its perfect, rides awesome... Anytime the road take a turn for the worse, so doe my steering.

So if the bushings wont fix that... Im at a loss...

 

The big difference is the control arm bushings and sway bar bushings in the prothane that aren't in the energy kit, i guess i dind't really need the prothane kit, since I got all poly bushings for my sways with my new sways.

 

That sounds like a wheel bearing or alignment issue, if you're fighting the steering wheel, check to see if you have any play in your wheel bearings, are you getting wheel vibrations or noise at all?

 

Nothing. No noise, other than the squeek from the camber kit. Alignment was just done... Like I said, the only time I fight the wheel is when the road is fubar'd. One a perfect flat road the car drives damn nice.

If it was a wheel bearing, why would it do it on both sides? OR could it be the bearings on both sides.

 

my passenger side did the same thing. I think its because we had to beat at the ball joint for two hours to get it to seperate. penetrating lube FTW.