esoterikpunk

Hey I was wondering what oil you all use.

My car has developed a lower engine knock and I'm curious as to switch to a thicker oil to remedy it. Currently I run Castrol 5w-30 dino on a 2.2 CL with 160k on the clock.

Palayah8ta

I use Valvoline 20-50w race oil, its like maple syrup for ur car!

shineynitelite

lol mobile 1 10w30 or royal purple 10w30

FULLRACE

mobile one synthetic. hamp oil filter

TexasHonda

If you have a constant lower engine crank/rod knock, you will need service soon. No oil will long stop the knock from getting worse. The knock is the rod hitting the crank (and bearing) w/ force. Wear accelerates and at some point the connecting rod may fail leading to engine block damage.

A rod knock is a deep unmistakable, clonk, clonk, clonk. Most have heard this after an oil change on engine startup. Before oil pressure rises, their may be a knock or two until the oil reaches the bearings.

Higher pitched knocks may be loose piston wrist pin, valves, camshaft damage, etc.

good luck

Nakamichi

Using Amsoil Synthetic 0w-30.

I agree with TexasHonda, you should fix the problem instead of putting a band-aid on it. This way you can fix the isolated problem before it starts damaging other parts of the engine. More repair = More money + More Time.

starboy2nv

iTrader: (2)

well said... both texashonda and nakamichi...

Mach30SiR

i use what ever the stealership puts in. i'm to lazy to change it my self.

98 CL

Mobil One is probably( in my opinon), the best product for your money. Pretty inexpensive for a great product.

Jtbecool

Quaker State Synthetic FTW! Cheapest brand name synthetic I can find. What do you guys pay for Mobil one, It's $38.99 (4.4l) where I'm at.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Mobil 1 5W40 Delvacc

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

STL+3.0CL

so none of you are using a 5w - 30 ?

BigDaddyRohrs

Castrol Syntec 5w-30, w/ Fram extended guard filter. Change every 5 or 6k.

CBloc-CL

I just switch from havoline Syn 5W-30 to Mobil 1 10W-30, and already I can tell the differnce, my engine is so much quieter. *99 2.3 CL 86,651 Miles*

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Mobil 1 ftw

asianspec

iTrader: (1)

if want to go hardcore then go with Eneos

supaman8118

mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic 100,400 miles

98 CL

i meant using mobil one non-synthetic for being cheap. Synthetic is too fucking spendy like the clean 7500 works for me

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

7500 is just regular oil, synthetic is worth the money. I spend at least $50 an oil change, and my labor is free

mcajka

Royal Purple...

97Acura3.0CL

5w 30 full synthetic

also a mobil one top of the line filter, I have read that you can use it up to 2 oil changes

WineRed2.2CL

i use Valvoline High Mielage and its pretty freakin good. i live in florida where heat is a problem and the thicker the BETTER.

i run 20 50w

Dan3952

Any oil filter is probably good for two oil changes.. I am skeptical of the new expensive ones that keep cropping up.

PimpCL23

i use KY Jelly.... it stays lubed for a good while

SwervinCL

Mobile 1 FTW

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

STL+3.0CL

Are any of you guys switching depending on the season? I just started switching to 10w -30 in the summer and 5 -30 in the winter. Does any one else do this?

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Redline.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Nope, I run 5W-40 so I don't need to switch it. Plus my car's being winterized to spend a nice winter in the garage. But I've never switched weights for summer/winter. But I've always used synthetic anyway.

acuracl2297

Mobile 1 5W-30

PimpCL23

has anyone changed the weight of the oil due to their mileage yet??? cause i see a lot of 5w-30's still being used

Dan3952

I have had a couple of reputable mechanics say that using a thicker oil helps lessen oil burning/use with an older car. Only reason I have 5W30 is because I may be facing -25 deg. C. cold starts three months from now. Block heater will help with that though for those in cold climes. For protecting your engine upon startup I think 10W would be superior especially when it's hot. I think the W20 oil grade Ford calls for now is a load of crap, it's just so they can claim slightly higher fuel economy ratings on some of their cars.

G22_Powered_YA1

OK since im searching and dont wanna create a new thread and be accused of not searching. . . really I just dont wanna be on the recieving end of one of BlackAck's noob pics



anyways, how are those out there running on oils other than 5W-30 going, I see some 10Ws and some 20Ws . . . anybody run 0W oils???

I wasthinking on running 5W-40 instead of te regular 5W-30 and 10W-30s ive used in the past. . . but seeing as how im in wonderful Texas, and summer is here, I might try out the 20W as some of you have. . . SPEAK UP people. . . lemme know

im currently running Motul 300V 5W-30, straight up race oil. . . I looked into Eneos like that other guy mentioned, and I found a source where I can get it cheaper than what im paying for Motul right now. . . Eneos also only has 0 and 5 weights available

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I got ones for when you search too man I'll spare you this time though. I run 5W-40 delvac for diesel and truck engines. Runs great, I love that weight for some reason.

ethenol

Water

Mr_Xclusive808

10W30 Royal Purple With K&N Oil filter changing every 4-5K miles. Currently at 103,000 Miles Now.

Eband27

Im running Synthetic Mobil 1 5W30 All year long. Winter and summer.

What does 10W30 does different? Or 5W40? I dont get those numbers! HELP THE OIL NOOB!!

G22_Powered_YA1

1st number is the weight, 2nd number is the viscosity index. . . the lower weight oils help with colder starts and fuel economy, higher weights tend to be better lubrication at temp. . . the viscosity number at the end also more or less tells you how well it does at temp