Hi, my 97' CL 2.2 has this problem with the ABS...the dashboard light is almost always lit up, sometimes it turns off thuogh. However, I dont think theres actually anything wrong with the ABS. Could it be some kind of wiring problem? Anyone else had this before? I did a search and couldnt find anything

 

add some fluid to the abs resivoir and see if that fixes it.

ryan

 

Grab the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), probably give you a good idea what to check.

 

I have the same problem. An earlier post indicated that the light may stay on if you start the car with your foot on the brake. Since I always do that I have tried to break myself of this habit but my AMS light still comes on. The fellow I bought the car from won't be at work until later this week. I'm going to ask him if it was on before I bought it as I did have minor brake work done on it to safety.

How do you find out your diagnosic code short of going to the mechanic?

Completely off topic, I want to say how proud I am that after three weeks I have finally got the car to eject the cd from the player. I have a very nice Sony cdplayer/radio combo which came with a dance music cd in the tray. It's lots of fun and booming but I've heard it now and want something different. I downloaded the equipment instructions to find out how to get rid of the cd and it looks like info how to build the skylab. You can see my priority here as the ABS light is on but I've spent all my time trying to eject a cd. First things first.

 

There's a service check connector (2-wire) located on the passenger side under the dash. I believe it's plugged into a dummy socket (forgot).

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Then connect a paperclip/wire to the Connect the Service Check Connector. The Service Check Connector is on the front passenger side above the kick panel.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Make sure NOT to have the brake pedal depressed. Having the brake pedal depressed will start the DTC erasure procedure.

The ABS indicator light comes on for about two seconds then goes off for about 4 seconds. Then the ABS light will indicate each DTC using slow blink(s) (1.3sec) followed by fast blink(s) (0.3sec).

For example a DTC of 4-2 (or 42), will have 4 slow blinks then 2 fast blinks.

There is a 3 to 4 second pause between each DTC. The ABS system can hold multiple DTCs. So supposed you had 3 DTC of 21, 12, 11; Your ABS light will react as the following:

Ignition ON (II)
- Bulb check (6 seconds)
- 4 sec pause
DTC 2-1 (or 21)
- 2 slow blinks
- 1 fast blink
- 4 sec pause
DTC 1-2 (or 12)
- 1 slow blinks
- 2 fast blink
- 4 sec pause
DTC 1-1 (or 11)
- 1 slow blinks
- 1 fast blink
- 4 sec pause

 

Get the ABS codes as Nakamichi described. This is best clue to your problem.

Look around your ABS modulator for evidence of leakage from the modulator. There are 6 body plugs that will leak. Fix is to remove the modulator, remove and reseat each plug w/ proper torgue. I recently fixed modulator on my daughter's 2.2 CL w/ this problem. There is a TSB that describes this fix. PM for a copy if you want to do this repair.

The oring on the base of the modulator accumulator (tall aerosol can sized part) can also leak and cause loss of fluid. Oring is not available from Honda and requires a "match" from oring stock.

Modulator only holds perhaps 3-4 oz of brake fluid. A small leak will eventually result in low fluid level and pump will "run on" at startup until ABS controller shuts modulator down after a fixed number of tries to achieve correct modulator standby pressure in the accumulator.

Some internal valve leaks cannot be fixed and require a replacement modulator. There are plenty of used modulators avialable from parts yards to swap in. All 94-97 Accord modulators are same part. Car-part.com is an excellent tool to find these used parts. Expect to pay $50-$100 for a working unit. The parts yards don't know if the modulators are working or not so you may get a dud first time. A local yard is a better option.

good luck

 

nakamichi what does the service check connector look like ?

 

Either your brake fluid is low and needs topped off, or one of your wheel speed sensors (you have 4) is bad.

 

pictures would be greatly appreciated...

 

just a thought,clean batt terminals/check leads.my abs went retarted when she wasn't gettin enough juice........

 

Yeah I would try the paper clip trick to find out what exactly is wrong with it. It can't hurt.

 

I am also having ABS problem in my 97 Acura CL 3.0. I got most of the answers I needed except one.

Few day ago when I started my car, that rolling noise from the passanger side started as usual and I believe that the ABS re-adjusting itself. I got used to with that noise. But that day the noise didn't stop, instead sounded like it got stuck and the motor is keep spinning. I stoped the car and restared and that sound didn't come back but he ABS light came up. well that continued to happen for few days. but now suddenly it corrected it self and the sound stops after re-adjusting it self at the first start and the ABS light doesn't come up.

Question:
1. which part makes that rolling noise. what is the name of it ?
2. is it easy to access that parts and possibly replace it ? or lube it, if needed. I have a feeling that its gonna come back and I don't wanna give the mechanics anymore money for this car.

thanks.

 

Your ABS modulator aka pump is being kept open, the quickest fix is to yank the ABS fuse in the ABS fuse panel under the hood, it's usually a bad sensor or lack of juice that causes it, otherwise it's a bad wheel speed sensor, or bad o-ring in the ABS mod.