Ive heard quite about a bit about both the unichip and the vafc, and I know im going to get killed for asking this, but whats the difference? Ive never really understood how they differ. Also which one would be better for the 3.0? thanks.

 

unichip will not be available for the first gen unless we get 30 people to put a deposit down to go towards a test module so that there is one. currently there is only one for the 2nd gen only

the vafc has i think more potential and more adjustability than the unichip but then the unichip is plug and play and the vafc has to be professionally tuned properly

i have the vafc on my 3.0 and i love it

gains for teh 3.0 have shown to be around 15hp from the vafc according to cocoa

do a search, youll find a lot about this discussed about the vafc controller

hope this help sya out

 

Unichip made one for the accord 98-2002 so it should work with our car -> 97Acura3.0CL

unichip have preset mode. EX. : MOD 1 : header,cam,etc ; MOD 2 : S/C, cam, header, etc.
So if you add something more to your car and want to extract all the power, you have to take it to dealer that can tune your unichip with the new mod.

VAFC is more tunable for a prof. and should cost less (200$ vs 700$) but isn't plug 'n play.
The cost of tuning the VAFC will be higher I think in the long run if you add many mod in some space between.

I keep my cash 4 unichip my 2cent.

 

they are set for the accord, we are for the 94-97 accord at least the 97's are, the accords have differnt fuel mapping from what i have heard

 

Yup. I think there would be a few people with the Uni-Chip if it was available for the CL's..

Uni-Chip isn't an option right now. It would probably be cheaper to get the vafc and have it tuned anyways.

 

k weird because we use the same engine (accord 98- 2000) but we use the old accord body <97. If I'm right why honda would change fuel mapping between our car and the accord motor. Anyhow thk 4 the info. I'll check mine

 

In my opinion, I believe many of us won't be doing soooo many mods to the CL to the extent to where we'll have to keep retuning it. I believe the VAFC would be
significantly enough for the average tuner.

 

Just FYI, the Unichip has more resolution and thus greater tuning capability. But that is only if you can get to someone with the proper software.

 

^^yeah i think that the unichip has more potential^^

the vafc is what ill probably get anyway, but i was just wondering if the unichip was better (if there was one for our cars). Ive seen some dynos of the unichip and there pretty impressive, but there are so many variables so its hard to tell. Also what is the stock whp/trq for the 99' 3.0?

 

vafc is a waste of time. get a hondata if ur serious about making power.

 

Talk to your local tuners, that actually are making power and ask them what they recommend as far as piggy back units. Let's face it, you can't tune it yourself, so you should see what the tuners around your area are using.

 

it all comes down to what you want to do with your car, and what your budget is. if you want maximum tuning capabilities, you should go with a standalone setup. like what baka_t had mentioned, check with a local tuner and see what units they specialize in. theyll have set base maps to tweak on, and there will be less time spent on fine tuning your vehicle.

 

i know not a venom 400, but why not a vafc? and what is the best one out of all and why? also im having problems finding performance stores near by. Ones a rice store and is small and crappy and way over priced and the guy just wants to sell his products and rip you off. And the other store is like all american muscle and the guy that I talked to wasnt helpful at all.

 

Just to add into the mix another option; the GReddy E-Manage. It can do nearly everything the Unichip can do but is user programable. It and the Unichip can do siginificantly more than the VAFC.

 

It's plain and simple. Invest in a stand-alone unit if you're serious about making power. Do things right the first time.

 

All 3.0 CL's were automatics. A stand alone DFI will not control the transaxle nor will the factory ECU correctly control then transaxle without also controlling the engine. So to go to a stand alone DFI system you would also need a stand alone transmission controller; which they are available but not cheap for this application.

So instead of < $1000 in a piggy back system and tuning, you would be in for > $4000 for both a DFI and transmission controller with programming. I don't see any 1st gen CLs even close to the point to where a piggy back ECU wouldn't do the job.

IMO, follow the lead some of us 2nd gen owner have paved. If over 450 crank HP can be made with a piggy back system (will probably eclipse the 600 mark soon) on the J32A2, 400 crank hp could easily be made on the J30A1 with a piggy back system. No one is close to that right now and until someone is the suggestion of a stand alone DFI is irrelevant.

 

Just tell me the exact product(s) that I need to buy to "do it right the first time." A lot of this is way over my head, dont bother explaining just tell me what to buy lol. Its not too important anyway because this is like #10 on my list of mods.........jw though

 

I can honestly agree; speaking to everyone in general.