Sway bars- Worth it on stock suspension?
#4
haha ok I plan on doing my suspensino eventually, but I'm doing the turbo first, so suspension won't be for a while, but I figure they would be a good help. Should I get the front or back, can't afford both..
#6
I heard that the highest powered ever cl had stock suspension lol, and I do plan on doing suspension, but after the turbo, I figure this sway bar would help with the turns and such...does anyone know the thickness of our stock sways? I'm curious what you gain with the tanabe's, I know they're 30.4mm in the front, and 20.0mm in the rear
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#8
I was going to do suspension then turbo, but changed my mind cause I really want to turbo now, I just don't want to wait, and I don't drive my car much during the year anyways due to college, so I won't be driving the car a whole lot with the turbo and no suspension.. so do you think front or rear?
#17
A thicker front sway will not help at all with that set up, or for any FWD for that matter in a stock form.
FWD = stiffen rear for more oversteer (since they have the tendency to understeer)
RWD = stiffen front for more understeer (since they have the tendecy to oversteer)
It's more of a basic principle (but it may not be true for ALL cars). Doing as above helps neutralize the car during cornering. There is A LOT more that comes into play and into the equation.
An easy way to see how tuning of suspension affects drivability is to play GT4 or GT3. Perfect a lap in stock form, then tune the suspension and see how it runs.
FWD = stiffen rear for more oversteer (since they have the tendency to understeer)
RWD = stiffen front for more understeer (since they have the tendecy to oversteer)
It's more of a basic principle (but it may not be true for ALL cars). Doing as above helps neutralize the car during cornering. There is A LOT more that comes into play and into the equation.
An easy way to see how tuning of suspension affects drivability is to play GT4 or GT3. Perfect a lap in stock form, then tune the suspension and see how it runs.
#20
I started with the suspension first...after number 3 I started to mod the engine but I tried to keep up with the suspension and frame stiffening.
1. 2" drop
2. Comptech sway bars
3. Neuspeed front strut bar
4. Cusco lower subframe bar (1st scrape today from having it on for a while and sounded horrible.) speed bumps FTW!!!!!
5. rear tie bar
6. C-pillar bar
1. 2" drop
2. Comptech sway bars
3. Neuspeed front strut bar
4. Cusco lower subframe bar (1st scrape today from having it on for a while and sounded horrible.) speed bumps FTW!!!!!
5. rear tie bar
6. C-pillar bar
#22
uhm has anyone herd of upgrading your brakes first before adding more power? it should be suspension and brakes. Anyway sway bars won't really do much on a stock suspension. Getting stiiffer springs or coilovers will make it greatly noticable.
#23
Originally Posted by CNDC
uhm has anyone herd of upgrading your brakes first before adding more power? it should be suspension and brakes. Anyway sway bars won't really do much on a stock suspension. Getting stiiffer springs or coilovers will make it greatly noticable.
#24
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From: ShitsBurgh
Originally Posted by CNDC
uhm has anyone herd of upgrading your brakes first before adding more power? it should be suspension and brakes. Anyway sway bars won't really do much on a stock suspension. Getting stiiffer springs or coilovers will make it greatly noticable.
#25
Originally Posted by GreenMachine
A larger or large rear sway bar makes a bigger difference on a FWD car...wth u talking about Cleetus? Go educate urself before you post.
#26
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From: ShitsBurgh
Originally Posted by CNDC
O man trust me. You wont really know you have a sway bar. The stock spring rate is too soft. Just adding a sway bar won't make a noticable difference. You'll still have most of the body roll. Sways with coilovers or springs and shocks = crazy cornering.
Sways on stock suspension = stupid, you won't notice a difference. Combined with full suspension =
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