(SIC)

i have a mmats d500.2 amp.....if anybody has this amp or knows anything about it your subwoofer suggestions would be much appreciated

this will be going in a 97 2.2 CL

im looking for something mabye $250 or less

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

What size sub, and how many? You want 1 sub for under 250? What size, 10, 12, 15?

98SilverSurfer

I have a nice Infinity perfect 12.1 I think it's called. Real nice sub.
Had a Rockford b4 but wanted somethin better and the low end mtx's was a mistake. Right b4 the Infinity I had an Alpine, I think type S sub. Wasn't as good in sound at all.

Jamz

I just ordered a Polk MOMO 10" sub that UPS should have for me today

hopefully it'll sound better than my 10yr old Kicker I'm replacing (which still sounded pretty good)

chosenrosen

For $250.00??? Don't get a subwoofer for 250.00, unless you can get a band pass box w/speaker from a friend for that price. I would recommend running 2 6x9s and get the most for your money, and avoid the subwoofer for only 250. For that money, you should be able to get decent pair of Pioneers, or Kenwood’s and run your 2-channel amp to them. Remember to run your amp at around 50-70 percent, or you will encounter more distortion at lower volumes, applies to non-competition amps. 500x2 tells me your amp runs 2 channels at 250 watts. If you run that at half (125) that’s loud as hell for inside speakers. In that configuration, I would adjust your fader control to get just the right amount of sound from the front… but you don’t want too much, or the sound waves in your car will crash and produce terrible sound at higher levels… the less front, the better

If you choose to add the subwoofer, don't forget soundproofing... unless you like the sound of rattling I know we all here too much from amateurs, then make sure you soundproof. I use Extreme Dynomat because it works great and it’s light. My entire car from firewall to tail lights is dynomatted.

Take it from experience… once you begin, you don’t stop. So do it right from the start. Think of it as an investment and spend some money on mid to high end inside speakers. Also, when installing Dynomat, it’s best to do the entire section (e.g. for subwoofer, do entire trunk). It’s a little more money, but will be worth the investment once you go to upgrade to something more hardcore.

I’ve installed many systems, but got lazy as I could afford to have someone else do it. I have a Kenwood Excelon deck, running two Kenwood Amps (800x1 & 600x4) with a capacitor that are pushing one 12” sub in a band pass box, and a pair of Boston Acoustic Pro 6x9s (rear), and 6.5 Components (front) in 2003 CLS AT. Some have systems louder then mine… a few… but I haven’t found someone that can overpower mine. I usually get’em in loudness and clarity.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Very good advice, you probably would want to start with the 6x9's. But 800W on one speaker isn't ~that loud. My 1440 watt amp and 2 12's knock way louder than that.

kamdawg

Jl audio. period.

hairybonch

Had JL in every car, love 'em.

wilp99

dont knock mtx.. they used to be aiit back in 1993. i had a set of 15" roadthunder blues.. them things bumped.

chosenrosen

Doesn't matter about the wattage or the amount of speakers... I'll piggie back on the JL threads... My one 12 has beat out two 12s before too. I could light an inferno in my truck if I went with a JL 1000x1... then again... the sub is only 1/6 the system. My inside speakers are not easy to match... you would have to get the $1,000 a pair MB Quart to compete. What about dynomat and cables? All of my connectors are professional grade, including time correcting speaker wire.

Leon

I have one 15 kicker solo L7, the new silver ones with 1200 watts rms in a huge box, cant keep my winshield wipers on my window. they bounce off of the winshield like crazy when I turn it up

dragon084

save ur money and go JL

Mulk

anyone have phoenix gold? i've got the Ti15d and it sounds nice, but i dont have much to compare to at all

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

JL is teh pimp