Hey guys so i have the hh2 swap with the m2a4 tranny
no i need help my driver side wheel bearing keeps blowing out i know that the car does not have a CL axel on driver side it has a female connector so it must be from the prelude. now i need to know how diffrent are the axles and can that be binding my bearing to blow evey 40 miles or wtf can it be. i changed bearing hub knuckle upper arms all joints and tie rods. i cant find nothing on the axles PLEase help im getting to the point were i want to sell the cl

 

Hey all you h22 guys what h22 and tranny do you have
i have a h22a with m2a4 tranny i keep blowing out my driver side wheel bearing. im about to buy a axle and i know the cl one in not the same. what Axles do i need what axles do all of you run Please help ! are the prelude axles the same of do i have to modify

 

I have no clue what would make one blow like you say yours is doing. I hope someone will be able to help you figure it out. I would think the things you changed would have fixed any problems myself and the only other thing I know of it could be would be an axle but since I am new to these types of cars I am in no position to even offer any helpful information

 

can it have anything to do with the half shaft i see the pass side axel is same as our cl but the driver side have a female connector in the axle. leading me to belive its a prelude axle.
now the question is. is the axle to long ? causing my bearing to bind

 

possible but i think you would get some noise from the axles though, let alone horrible torque steer and such, and more issues then the wheel bearing only going out (ie: cv joints); so i would say more then likely not your issue
but my next question is still related to the axle though, what are you torquing the axle nut to?


and does that torque seem to come on very quickly, like the nut is possibly bottoming out on the threads, before it is pre-loading the bearing; but giving you the false seance that it is tightened to spec (it should be a very progressive tightening down, not an all of a sudden hitting the torque spec?

and before you completely blow that out of the water, i have had the very thing happen on my car, completely stock (a 5th gen accord too), when i replaced the axles on it with FACTORY REBUILT AXLES (so not aftermarket; and a factory bearing/hub too), and as soon as i put a washer under the nut, all the play went away because it got proper preloading



so maybe the axle stub shaft is that fraction of an inch, not allowing the bearing to be properly preloaded (btw it took me a good year to figure that one out, and even then it was coincidental too, that i noticed it, i forgot what i was doing, when i noticed it)

 

just thought of this one also...


or even possibly the splines on the axle stub not being cut far enough down the stub, which again will could cause the bearing to be improperly preloaded, due to the spline bottoming out, instead of the axle pushing on the inner race instead, and squeezing the assembly tighter (if you take a pic, i can put an arrow to the parts i mean [back side of the bearing, and another of the axle stub)






is it hard to get the stub out of the bearing, cause being how many times you have had it apart, you should basically be able to push the stub out with your hands once the nut is taken off (or at least push back); aka it's not binding in there

 

wow thanks dude. after taking it apart so many times i know what your talking about the axle spleen not tighting the on the bearing to torque. or its hitting it fast. im going to try and put a washer under the axle nut. i have noticed that if the car is on the ground and u reach behind and grab the axle you can pull it back and fourth a bit. white the other side u cant. do you think i should buy a new axle too ?

 

NP, and that sounds like it, with absolutely no preload on the bearing



nothing wrong with the axle itself really other then being for a different car, i would personally probably just put a washer under that axle nut (but you have to find one that is big enough though, while also being narrow enough to fit in that pocket the nut sits in; so i don't know what you have access to exactly, but i got mine from the old bolt bin at work [auto tech btw, and quite a few axles would come with a new nut and such, so we just toss the hardware in a bin at times], so i have no idea of what it came off exactly )

btw with it having so much gap/play you might have to put two washers to make sure the nut still does not bottom out, and not preload the bearing fully (on mine it was still preloaded some, so the bearing did stay intact)
also idk the current condition of your bearing, but you might have to get a new one again




so if you can't find a washer that will fit correctly, you might have to go the new axle route (money better spent on MORE mods )

 

I used stock CL axles on mine and only had an issue once when I didnt have the lugnuts on tight enough and the axle was clicking. I'd start with the washer trick fries was talking about and then work from there.

 

i tried getting a cl axle and it dosent fit into the half shaft the axle has a female connector can i use a cl half shaft on the m2a4 tranny ? what halfshaft did you use what tranny did u have ??

 

also OP, forgot to mention i would still pop that axle out of the hub/bearing to at least inspect the splines and such for any possible damage, since it had been sliding back and fourth some (since you can move it by hand), you never now what you might find (try and keep from just putting a damaged axle if it is, back in)

 

are you trying to put the cv axle, on the shaft that goes across the back of the motor ( can't think of the correct term right now)

if so, that probably needs to be changed out also, not just the cv axle part

 

yea thats what im trying to figure out since da said he used his cl axle. the other cl axle i got wont fit the shaft ( intermidiate shaft) that goes accros the back of the motor.

I need to find out if a cl intermidiate shaft will fit the m2a4 transmission i cant find it anywere online. thats the only way i could use cl axles sine the prelude axle is female and the cl axle is male ??

im goin to try this today ill keep you guys up to date
thanks for the help X100000 !!

 

that's the name , could not think of it yesterday



NP on the helping bit

 

well the washer trick did not work i put in a new axle and bearing. i drove arround the block 3 times and the bearing was shot. i have no idea what can be wrong im down to trying a cl intermidiate shaft with a cl axle and if that dosent work. im gona be forced to sell the CL. There goes bearing #5

im gona leave the car at the mechanic on wed hes gona devote the whole day to this good hes my buddy and only charges me next to nothing. Any idea what eles it can be

 

ur getting rid of the car cause of a bearing?
ok....
matt, you want your car back?

 

the car has a little secret i havent told anyone about yet
nothing under 6k with wheels

 

For the life of me i couldnt figure out the bearing problem either. But PLEASE dont sell the car because of this. lol

What axel's are you using right now? i am almost positive i was not using Prelude axel's. I was using Accord axel's.

 

Drop it off at my shop and u'll be good to go...

 

so this has been going on for a while then.....



if so has the knuckle already been replaced at attempting to fix it?

 

the axle i put in now is from a 93 prelude. we put a washer after the axle nut. put a little extra presure. it seems to be holding up. i also replaced the sway bar links. the whole susspension is now all new. im hoping to god the bearing issue goes away.

oh and a 94 accord axle did not fit my half shaft my half is a male to female on the axle. i dont understand why people say it fits. yo ghost by the way when did the problem start to happen. do you remeber ?

oh and the car is almost ready for the rota's in 17/9.5 i just have to figure out a good tire combo not to get alot of rubbing. the fenders are gona get rolled. i have decided to go in a diffrent direction with the cl. Not for racing but a nice stance and cool motor to show

ill keep updating

 

i have changed every single suspension component on both sides mostly dealer parts

 

were's your shop at dude

 

next question, cause really doing all that should have fixed those issue


could the frame or subframe possibly be bent? starting to get to the extremes now, but there is always a possibility though


this is starting to get into major checking of it, but might be needed though

also next thing i would say is, take the spring off the the shock (disconnecting the sway might also help too), then reinstall just the shock, so that you can cycle the suspension through out it's travel, while also turning the wheel left and right at times, and see if anything binds up

also don't forget to crack all the bushings bolts "loose" so that the bushings do not resist your movement of the suspension (if they have not been replaced with urethane or such)

 

deer park, ny. pm me your number and ill have them call you.

 

use an accord intermediade shaft with CD axles

 

im sorry but 94-97 intermidate shaft ?
and the axles ? from 94- 97 i just wana make sure

so the shaft will go right into the tranny with no problem ?

 

Correct. I have done quite a few H22 swaps in accords and used the intermediate shaft and axles for the corresponding year of accord without issue.

 

it started a few months after i did my H22 swap in august of 2007.

i recommend Hankook Ventus V4 ES tires.

 

thats the tires i have now lol .. besides that
so u say it started happening after the swap do you remeber hitting any huge holes ?
did you crash b4 the swap or after cause the car has lightly been hit on that side. do you remeber anything going wrong durring the swap. i really need to know how to fix this. so i can finaly start fitting the ROTA'S that are sitting by my bed

 

Seriously........ use the accord stuff I mentioned. Or to be honest, if your original motor was 5 speed, you can use the intermediate shaft and axle from the car. Using the stuff from the accord or Cl should put all the tolerances back to factory specs and keep proper loading on the bearings.

 

and thats what im goin to try next

 

it was happening before the accident which was after the swap. The swap went with out any issues and was done at a reputable shop that used to be in Queens and is now called E-Shift Pro LLC.

 

didnt you replace the coils with just springs and struts?

 

I don't think the car ever had coils on it

 

well when i recived the car it had tokito with spotlines the car was slammed retarted. i had to drive 10 mph everywere. i didnt mind that but it was a little to impractical. but yes i have changed all the suspension parts. im gona work on the rear for now. get the arms and i have to find a shaft from a 5 speed cl. ALL of this has haulted the AiR Bag Suspension. =(

 

sportlines are springs not coils, and I know how low the car was, I've seen it in person. I was just saying that the car didn't have coils because spencer asked. Matt never installed the coils he bought for it

 

ill let you all know what happens when i put in the new shaft and axle

 

yeah i never got around to be putting the coilovers on it.