Oil Change
#2
BAD!!! jk no big deal since its nice and warm out where i am. The brand of motor oil really shouldn't matter but the weight you should be using is 5W-30. I would suggest using a non-synthetic because of your engines age. I recently used some type of oil that was for older engines and i would recommend it to you if i knew what it was called. Its in a green 1 gallon bottle and it was only like 15 dollars at my local autozone.
#3
my1STcar..praise GOD!
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: wisconsin
Age: 35
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
full synthetic FTW... mobil 1...smoOooOoth
unless uve been using "dino oil" for the past oil changes..
yeah 5w-30 unless u live where its always hot then 10w-30 is K..
unless uve been using "dino oil" for the past oil changes..
yeah 5w-30 unless u live where its always hot then 10w-30 is K..
#4
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
Don't get full synthetic with that many miles, especially if the car hasn't had synthetic all along, I would get a high mileage oil like valvoline max life
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
I use mobil 1 synthetic 5w40 delvac Still say that many miles you don't wanna switch to synth, I'd get a high mileage oil
#10
#12
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta
Age: 49
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't used 5W30 in my 2.3 for three years.. most of the mechanics say go to 10W30 with an older car it's more advantageous to have a thicker oil upon startup.
You only need 5W30 if the temperature is going to below 0 deg. F and even if it does, your engine won't blow up with 10 weight particularly if you use a block heater.
Make sure you don't overfill, even by a little bit, if you use a synthetic, I had the rear main start to leak after misreading the level and overfilling 1/2 qt. with Mobil 1.
If you burn oil the MaxLife will help somewhat. Going from dino to a regular synthetic will clean out all the gunk which may be preventing oil from getting past your aged seals.
You only need 5W30 if the temperature is going to below 0 deg. F and even if it does, your engine won't blow up with 10 weight particularly if you use a block heater.
Make sure you don't overfill, even by a little bit, if you use a synthetic, I had the rear main start to leak after misreading the level and overfilling 1/2 qt. with Mobil 1.
If you burn oil the MaxLife will help somewhat. Going from dino to a regular synthetic will clean out all the gunk which may be preventing oil from getting past your aged seals.
#13
Drifting
I actually just bought oil for my first change, but my fiancee is driving around with my tools in her taurus(since you kinda need every tool you own in a taurus at all times).
Anyways, I bought a synthetic blend 5w-30, not fully synthetic. The car has 79k mi, is this a good move or bad? it had been using dino oil.
Anyways, I bought a synthetic blend 5w-30, not fully synthetic. The car has 79k mi, is this a good move or bad? it had been using dino oil.
#14
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta
Age: 49
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The blends aren't all that good I don't think compared to a group III full synthetic, they are closer to a dino oil. See Bob is the Oil Guy for specific forums, it has more info than anywhere else. They also say Fram oil filters are crap.
If you don't burn or leak oil, your oil choice won't be that critical, I have both problems with mine
If you don't burn or leak oil, your oil choice won't be that critical, I have both problems with mine
#15
Drifting
thanks, dont worry I dont use Fram. My thinking was use a blend first and switch over to full synthetic.
#16
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
The kitten is strong in this thread...
#17
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bahston, MA
Age: 38
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am going to do a change this weekend, I thought I read somewhere that our car uses a special gasket or something you need to replace where you take the bolt out of the oil pan to drain it? Anyone have any more info?
#18
go to home depot take the bolt with you or search the web for the size and buy some sythentic washers for like 99cents....I had the same problem and did this worked for me....and for 99cents I have some to spare....lol.....
#19
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bahston, MA
Age: 38
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#21
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
I go to honda for oil filters, and get crush washers and drain plugs from them all the time
#22
Drifting
noob here... i've changed my oil a couple times, and used fram oil filters every time... what's wrong with the frams, and what's the cost difference to go to honda?
#23
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
Not much difference between honda and fram, maybe 1-2 bucks. And nothing's wrong with fram, they're just more generic
#24
'99 2.3 CL
for what its worth tho, the crappy aftermarket filter that came with the car was leaking oil on the A pipe and smoking. It was on tight too. I used a Honda filter and crush washer and no more leaking. Honda makes very high quality maintenance parts so I would always recommend using their stuff.
#26
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta
Age: 49
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#27
Drifting
isn't the problem with fram that they dont use enough filter material, which leads to the filter clogging up much faster than normal. What brands are best I dont really know, last change I used a Mobil 1 filter.
#28
'99 2.3 CL
The reason I choose genuine honda filters over aftermarket or fram is best explained with this picture
#29
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta
Age: 49
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The one you've indicated is the Filtech Honda filter.. PLM-A02 which is the Fram. Honeywell = Allied-Signal = Fram = cardboard end pieces and plastic valve. Honeywell doesn't make too many things on their own.. like GM they put their name on a lot of things they don't manufacture. I've been using Bosch as the local Canadian Tire only sells Fram.. they must be getting some sort of kickback to carry only that brand at a store that has many other, hard to find parts. If I can find a PLM-A01 might use that one next time.
Actually, Honda filters for the US and Canada are manufactured by Honeywell and before that, Filtech. I don't believe fram was ever a supplier for Honda/Acura filters.
The reason I choose genuine honda filters over aftermarket or fram is best explained with this picture
The reason I choose genuine honda filters over aftermarket or fram is best explained with this picture
#31
Drifting
thank you Dan, you've certainly answered my question, Honda filters it is.
After losing my Camry to sludge(threw a rod through my block and burst into flames), I dont cut corners when it comes to oil.
After losing my Camry to sludge(threw a rod through my block and burst into flames), I dont cut corners when it comes to oil.
#32
6spd FTW
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: is everything.
Age: 37
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
Received 49 Likes
on
33 Posts
Wow, not buying fram anymore. When I got my car it had a honda OEM one on it, buying fram is an injustice to my car if they use that horrid cardboard on all of them. I usually buy the toughguard ones.
#33
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
I like the mobil 1 filters, but they're damn expensive
#35
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
#37
Use 5W-30 Castrol Blend
I use the K&N filter for my oil and I love it. No oil wrench is needed. It has an actual hex head on the bottom for an actual wrench which is super nice and it keeps from destroying the filter.
The Blend is a safe way to go with high miles, which I am sure at this point all of our CL's have high miles on them.
I use the K&N filter for my oil and I love it. No oil wrench is needed. It has an actual hex head on the bottom for an actual wrench which is super nice and it keeps from destroying the filter.
The Blend is a safe way to go with high miles, which I am sure at this point all of our CL's have high miles on them.
#39
purolator is an average brand and they make purolator pureone filters which are even better. Just curious why you used 10w-40 instead of 5w-30? but i guess as long as temps in tx dont get too low then you should be good.