oil change???
oil change???
ok i;m tired of paying 20 bucks for something that seems to be real simple. i go to the dealer and it takes em like 15 minutes to change that shit. i wanted to know if it was worth it, cause i was thinkin my satisfaction for doing it myself plus save money would equal up to more than 20 bucks. its it hard?? what tools do i need? any one got a picture step by step lol.
It's real easy. Put the jack under the frame, grab a 15mm or 17mm wrench and loosen the bolt that is under the oil pan. Let the oil all drain out. I leave my car sitting for about 30 minutes. You don't have to leave your car draining for that long but I ensure all the old oil is out. Loosen the oil filter and put a new one in (I use Fram oil filters). Replace with 5 1/2 quarts of oil and you're done. Don't forget to tighten that 15mm bolt.
ok lets see if i can step by step this for you, i've done it so many times i might miss something.
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...oil+AND+change
Read that thread first there are some tips in there I don't want to retype, yup I'm lazy and its early.
First off you'll need a jack and some jack stands, I can't stress the importance of the stands it will keep the car from crushing you if the jack fails (doesn't happen that often but hey always better to be safe) and its hard to get under the car around the jack since the jack point is about ~6" back from the front of the car, dead center to the front of the liscense plate mount.
* You will need a pan to catch the old oil in (~4.5 quarts)
* I would reccomend a ratchet to break the driain plug loose
(17mm I think, but don't quote me on it
)* You might need a filter wrench to get the filter off, available at
any autoparts store
* A new oil filter
* 5 quarts of oil. Our cars use 4.5 so you will have a little left
over
* Lots of paper towls or a few shop rags, it gets a little messy.
I think that is it for items you need. You will want to drain the oil with the engine warm, when the oil is warm it is more viscous and will drain easier and more complete. Once you get the car up and you are under the you can easily spot the oil pan and drain plug, the filter is almost directly above the oil pan, you can see it if you have a light, it should be blue since you go to Honda for the changes (I might be wrong on this since I haven't seen a Honda filter in ages). Pull the drain plug and open the oil fill under the hood, this helps the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain out, replace the plug (See tips in posted thread), now on to the filter. It just twists off counter-clockwise, try to position your pan below the filter since there is some oil in it and it may leak out, also why you don't want your face under it. Put your new fliter on. Make sure it and the plug are tight. Lower the car, add your 4.5 quarts of oil, check the stick (should be just at the upper hole). Start the car and let it run and look for leaks, oil on the pavement/cement. And dispose of the oil in a safe manner for your area.
That should be it. If i missed anything hopefully someone will fill it in in a later post. Hops this helps!
do it your self and get good oil, whenever you go some where to do it they use the cheapest oil possible because they get it in bulk. use castrol gtx or formula 1... you will end up spending about the same... 20 bux for oil and filter.
-shawn
-shawn
teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
in all honesty, you will be paying that much anyways once you buy your own oil etc. Dealers and Shops that do oil changes get mad discounts on oil.
I change my own, 23$ for Mobil 1 Synthetic
3$ for filter.
one thing that sucks about doing your own is you have to dispose of the oil yourself.
I change my own, 23$ for Mobil 1 Synthetic
3$ for filter.
one thing that sucks about doing your own is you have to dispose of the oil yourself.
yeah, i can take it to the local recycling center. I prefer doing that stuff on my own; oil/fliter, small maintenance, etc. At least that way when something goes wrong I can only blmae myself, and I know where to start looking to fix the problem.
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Originally posted by truraysa
i use redline about 12bucks a quart and extreme fram filter, i think thats what its called, the one that comes in the can not the box
i use redline about 12bucks a quart and extreme fram filter, i think thats what its called, the one that comes in the can not the box
That fram filter you're talking about it the Fram double guard or some shit. It comes in a silver can. It's the same one I use and it's about $5.
You guys shouldnt be using anything but a Honda oil filter. Honda filters are made for Hondas. They have special baffles inside to keep the oil from draining back into the filter when the car is not running. Anything less is CRAP.
Originally posted by Mark Davison
You guys shouldnt be using anything but a Honda oil filter. Honda filters are made for Hondas. They have special baffles inside to keep the oil from draining back into the filter when the car is not running. Anything less is CRAP.
You guys shouldnt be using anything but a Honda oil filter. Honda filters are made for Hondas. They have special baffles inside to keep the oil from draining back into the filter when the car is not running. Anything less is CRAP.
Originally posted by uiskibum
yeah, i can take it to the local recycling center. I prefer doing that stuff on my own; oil/fliter, small maintenance, etc. At least that way when something goes wrong I can only blmae myself, and I know where to start looking to fix the problem.
yeah, i can take it to the local recycling center. I prefer doing that stuff on my own; oil/fliter, small maintenance, etc. At least that way when something goes wrong I can only blmae myself, and I know where to start looking to fix the problem.
Aren't the US made Honda filters almost identical to the Fram x2 filters?
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
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