Jabuhanna

I was at the mechanic today doing some repairs to my CL when I noticed that my rear brakes are about dead. at the same time, my steering wheel shakes everytime i brake so i figured that my front rotors are warpped. to make a long story short, I'm looking at changing front and rear rotors and brake pads (they are not all bad "front brakes and rear rotors are in great shape", but i thought: what the hell.. just change the whole thing at once)

No i always liked the slotted and drilled rotors so i have been looking around to get them. but i thought it would be real helpful to share some of my concerns with you guys and get some advice:

Does it really make a big difference in braking preformance to have slotted and drilled rotors? (I mean i know the advantage of them but is it really worth it?)

If i get drilled and slotted rotors, do i need special brake pads?

Now if you believe that its worth it, can you direct me to the right ones (brakes and rotors)?

As i said i have been looking around and I'm not sure how to judge what is good and what is not!

I have seen a set of two rotors for like $150, but have also seen a set of four rotors and brakes for like $150 . I have seen one rotor of $80 as well... so i'm confused.. I dont want to buy cheap stuff that ends up warpping after a month and at the same time i dont want to buy just a brand name for $x,xxx if it gives me the same results as a $200 set.
I even tried to look on here for like the sponsered sales,but i ended up with dead links.

I would really appreciate any advice.

I'm not trying to spend all i have on brakes, but at the same time i like my acura to look good and drive good.

btw, I have 1997 2.2 CL manual transmission.

MoSp33d

drilled/slotted rotors will also eat your brake pads faster and IMO its not worth it. for our cars, the rear rotors really dont matter. front ones r the ones u should worry bout. brake pads u can get them at autozone for 40-50 bucks. but im sure some guys in here will direct u to better pads and rotors, once again. drilled/slotted rotors is pointless IMO.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

drilled slotted warp very quickly, you're better off just getting some rotora slotted, I'm on my 3rd set of drilled slotted and not planning to get another set, my current ones are fine becaue I bed them in really well, but if you daily drive it you want slotted only

DoubleSh0t

iTrader: (1)

Do the Prelude/Legend upgrade.

Dicorp

you're not making enough power to warrant a brake upgrade IMO. so dont waste money on slotted rotors. just obtain some brembo blanks and a decent set of ceramic pads and you'll be fine.

be prepared to spend extra money on fronts, as you have a 97 CL, which has hub over rotor brakes.

Dicorp

i was reading about that on PP.com and it turns out it, more complicated than we though, or atleast people are making it to be.

the issue being the difference in thickness of the rotors, requiring either shims on the pads or redrilling the legend rotor. sounds like a PITA.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

If you end up choosing ROTORA slotted rotors check out our web store and use promo code AZ ROTORA for an additional discount.

http://store.excelerateperformance.c...d/g-51736.aspx

Eband27

I think using cross/drilled discs for 97 2.2cl is good because of the hub over disc design, the disc overheats faster. I'v got brembo blanks i put on last year, i think they are allready warped... 200$ out the window right there... Im getting Rotoras corss drilled as my next rotors.

But for the other models, that don't have the hub over disc, u dont really need it!

Anhedonia

im thinking of doig the rotara slotted's when i need new brakes.. i know my rear pads are pretty shot and my right rear rotors pretty fucked from the caliper siezing. oh well.

Dicorp

who know this how? have you researched this? please provide an insight to back this up.

and how much hard braking are you doing?

as BlackAck already mentioned cross drilled rotors warp faster, meaning you'd change them more often, and more time consuming on the 97 models.

TrueNorth

That being said, if one were to go for cross-drilled slotted rotors, which would be better:

a) Cadmium rotors Vs Zinc Rotors?

b) Ceramic Pads Vs Semi-metallic Pads?

also How are these sets:

1)

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...WNASIF:CA:1123

Or this

2)

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ACURA-CL-1997-4Cy...1%7C240%3A1318

Anhedonia

ceramic pads last longer, although with them being drilled, they might get chewed up faster seeing as there a softer material then most semi-metallic pads.

as for rotors, fuck if i know.

TrueNorth

I've read mostly that Cadmium are superior to Zinc for anti-corrosion.

Also, I've read that Ceramic are better for daily driving and semi-mettalic for commercial or racing use.

Makes no sense to me. Most opinions point to the best combo being Cadmium Rotors with Ceramic Pads.

Anhedonia

i get it all confused.. but from what i know, dont ceramic pads offer the least amount of dust and semi metallic offer the least amount of brake fade over extended periods of continued driving?

Eband27

isn't cadium and zinc just a coating? Disc brakes are just a big hump of steel, of slightly different composition depend on the company and different making process. And then they are coated or painted (black rotora center).

Am i right? or completly off the hook?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

you're pretty much right

Blazin Si

That's about right. Don't pay so much attention to name brands. Nearly all rotors are made in China. There is no longer any production of rotors in the U.S.. Companies like Raybestos, Bendix, Wagner, and EIS are merely a shell of what they once were.

If you want something that looks nice behind your wheels, a set of zinc coated, slotted rotors would be your best option. EBC Green Stuff pads are a good upgrade for a street car. Lots of people give them good reviews and I liked them when I had a set.

98redcl

I've got a 98 3.0 CL Prem. with at least one stock front disc warped. I've been looking for a reasonable upgrade and ran across the Powerstop upgrade, which includes 2 drilled, slotted discs for the front and 4 ceramic pads. I see the posts above saying drilled discs are not the route you want to go.

Has anyone had any experience with Powerstop? This kit is roughly $200, so I wondered if it would be money wasted, or if it might be a decent upgrade.

RemieGino14

You know to be honest, as much as everyone bags on "Durafast" (I mean Duralast) Pads and Rotors, I wouldn't mind paying $150 for front and rear, pads and rotors that'll last at least a year. I been running on my stock rotors for over 4 years not realizing that all of my rotors were warped, had heat spots, and were cracking. I remember for 7 months ago, I couldn't make out what this loud squeaking noise was till I realize after 4 years, it was about time to change my rear rotors. (I had changed my front rotors 2 years prior) It wasn't hard (I guess for 3.0s Its not hard since you don't have to press anything, just hammer out the old rotor, only thing that was hard since I didn't have the right tool was getting the brake piston back in.) Same brand, Duralast rotors and Ceramic Pads. Got them at Autozone, but since I'm a student at an automotive school, I get discounts at the local Autozone.

Just saying. Save yourself a few bucks. Honestly in my opinion, slotted/drilled rotors are for show or performance only. As a daily, I suppose it wouldn't be quite realiable.

Just my 2 cents.

- RemieGino14 -

97'CL2.2

autobarn.net has brembo blanks in 11.1" for $47...ask me how i know...

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Drilled/slotted is a crap shoot, if you don't bed them in just right, they will warp very fast.

TAco23

Blazin you got a PM or you should.

And I would go with the slotted. And IMO ceramic has caused my rotors to get glazed over on the front more than I would like. Good luck changing out the fronts. a shop quoted me at $350 for rotors pads and labor to do just the fronts. 2.2 hrs of labor. plus the manager there has a 97 3.0 too. So he knows it is a PIA.