My 2nd swap
#1
Cruisin'
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I previously owned a 2005 Civic ES1 that I did an an A2 swap on for vtec which was pretty easy. I now own a '97 Acura CL 2.2, 5 Speed. I am in the begining stages of gathering parts for an H22A4 swap. I've found a local parts supplier with a 1999 H22A4 with 90k on it and no valves for $250. I'll prolly also go with a p13 ECU as well. I am open to any suggestions and if anyone could help point me towards any good guides I'd greatly appreaciate it. I work at an autobody shop and have pretty much any tool under the sun at my finger tips so hopefully this goes smoothley.
#3
Senior Moderator
There's a few of us that have H swaps in our 2.X's, it's a pretty straightforward swap for an h22. H23a requires more work. Also there's an H22 swap guide, if u believe you need it PM Allan (username: tehCL).
Some advice i would give you is to get Hasport mounts, I wish i did that in the 1st place, and get the euro-R intake manifold if you're looking to upgrade because the skunk2 one will hit your brake booster unless you do a little modifications. I have the skunk2 and love the power increase, but the clearance issues are a pain. And DO NOT buy a skunk2 throttle body! Mine would constantly stick, and came apart and dropped a screw in cylinder #1 and caused me to have to do a complete rebuild. Also if you have a 97, make sure you get the obd2A to obd1 adapter to run the p13, 98's and 99's use the obd2B adapter. Other than that, searching is your friend
Some advice i would give you is to get Hasport mounts, I wish i did that in the 1st place, and get the euro-R intake manifold if you're looking to upgrade because the skunk2 one will hit your brake booster unless you do a little modifications. I have the skunk2 and love the power increase, but the clearance issues are a pain. And DO NOT buy a skunk2 throttle body! Mine would constantly stick, and came apart and dropped a screw in cylinder #1 and caused me to have to do a complete rebuild. Also if you have a 97, make sure you get the obd2A to obd1 adapter to run the p13, 98's and 99's use the obd2B adapter. Other than that, searching is your friend
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#4
Cruisin'
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There's a few of us that have H swaps in our 2.X's, it's a pretty straightforward swap for an h22. H23a requires more work. Also there's an H22 swap guide, if u believe you need it PM Allan (username: tehCL).
Some advice i would give you is to get Hasport mounts, I wish i did that in the 1st place, and get the euro-R intake manifold if you're looking to upgrade because the skunk2 one will hit your brake booster unless you do a little modifications. I have the skunk2 and love the power increase, but the clearance issues are a pain. And DO NOT buy a skunk2 throttle body! Mine would constantly stick, and came apart and dropped a screw in cylinder #1 and caused me to have to do a complete rebuild. Also if you have a 97, make sure you get the obd2A to obd1 adapter to run the p13, 98's and 99's use the obd2B adapter. Other than that, searching is your friend![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Some advice i would give you is to get Hasport mounts, I wish i did that in the 1st place, and get the euro-R intake manifold if you're looking to upgrade because the skunk2 one will hit your brake booster unless you do a little modifications. I have the skunk2 and love the power increase, but the clearance issues are a pain. And DO NOT buy a skunk2 throttle body! Mine would constantly stick, and came apart and dropped a screw in cylinder #1 and caused me to have to do a complete rebuild. Also if you have a 97, make sure you get the obd2A to obd1 adapter to run the p13, 98's and 99's use the obd2B adapter. Other than that, searching is your friend
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#5
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here we go again
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#6
Suzuka Master
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no Chris ive been talking to this kid on AIM for a while, he seems like hes gonna do it.
i would also suggest getting the H23A manual tensioner conversion. if could save you a big headache down the road. i posted a thread in the DIY/FAQ section with all the part numbers.
i would also suggest getting the H23A manual tensioner conversion. if could save you a big headache down the road. i posted a thread in the DIY/FAQ section with all the part numbers.
#7
Suzuka Master
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Thanks for all the info man. What do you recommend as far as the mounts go? Leave my stock CL mounts and only replace the drivers side? For the time being will the F series IM/TB mount on to the H series head? As far as the P13 I was looking to get the '97 OBD2 version without an immobilizer to save some time with wiring, I did read however that this ECU is not chipable. I will prolly be hitting up Ghost on AIM later tomorrow to get some more information as well, he is only like an hour away from me ![Big Grin](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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#8
Senior Moderator
idk of an obd2 ecu that u can chip either, but i've seen people use the last gen of prelude ecu to stay obd2 after their swap. I also recommend using all hasport or innovative mounts.
#10
Cruisin'
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Since I seem to have gained the attention of the rest of the class I suppose I will post my PM'd questions publicly.
LOL okay well I'm def doing the the G22 swap looks like I am going to go with an H22A4.
Can you give me a quick run down of the parts I need and which belts I need.
Do I need an H series harness? Which ECU is the best? I was thinking of getting the OBD2 P13 because it sounds like there is less wiring involved. Do I use the F series distrib? I can use the F series TB and IM correct?
Of the top of my head I know I need this:
H22A4
ECU without immobilizer
F22b1 head gasket
Driver's side engine mount
H22 water pump
Also does it make a difference with the year A4 I get whether it's an OBD2 or 1? It does seem like I will end up having to get an OBD1 ecu, will a late model A4 have any issues with that? If I can use my F series harness would it be easier to get an OBD2 gen head or is it all the same?
The last week or so I have been digging through the internet trying to find some answers
Hopefully these questions aren't too dumb
LOL okay well I'm def doing the the G22 swap looks like I am going to go with an H22A4.
Can you give me a quick run down of the parts I need and which belts I need.
Do I need an H series harness? Which ECU is the best? I was thinking of getting the OBD2 P13 because it sounds like there is less wiring involved. Do I use the F series distrib? I can use the F series TB and IM correct?
Of the top of my head I know I need this:
H22A4
ECU without immobilizer
F22b1 head gasket
Driver's side engine mount
H22 water pump
Also does it make a difference with the year A4 I get whether it's an OBD2 or 1? It does seem like I will end up having to get an OBD1 ecu, will a late model A4 have any issues with that? If I can use my F series harness would it be easier to get an OBD2 gen head or is it all the same?
The last week or so I have been digging through the internet trying to find some answers
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#11
Cruisin'
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Also this guy seems to claim he can reprogram the P13
http://ff-squad.com/ecu2/?page_id=65
and remove the immobilize from well almost any OBD2
http://ff-squad.com/ecu2/?page_id=76
http://ff-squad.com/ecu2/?page_id=65
and remove the immobilize from well almost any OBD2
http://ff-squad.com/ecu2/?page_id=76
#12
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no Chris ive been talking to this kid on AIM for a while, he seems like hes gonna do it.
i would also suggest getting the H23A manual tensioner conversion. if could save you a big headache down the road. i posted a thread in the DIY/FAQ section with all the part numbers.
i would also suggest getting the H23A manual tensioner conversion. if could save you a big headache down the road. i posted a thread in the DIY/FAQ section with all the part numbers.
#13
Senior Moderator
you can take off the immobilizer but u can't reprogram the basemaps of the P13, its a pain in the ass. P28 is way better for that. Are you gonna do the G22 or the H22?
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