Originally Posted by 972xghost

current ride height:
[IMG]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c331/2point2CL/Picture254.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c331/2point2CL/Picture251.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c331/2point2CL/Picture214.jpg[IMG]

Originally Posted by 972xghost

current ride height:

Originally Posted by irresponsiblekid

beautyful - you open to selling after you source the new replacement shit?

Originally Posted by 972xghost

i guess i would if your willing to buy a 2yr old suspension. their still in good shape and all but im just saying

and thanks chris. i miss the hood. i sold it to shaun. i dont have the time or money to have it fixed. hopefully he does.

Originally Posted by Outlaw

Personally, I think they're uncomfortable. Definitely go with custom spring rates if you decide to get them. I switched mine out from 13k/7k to 7k/6k and it made a big difference, but the real difference is in the damper design.

D2s/Ksports are actually more similar to the Tein Mono Flex setup. D2s/Ksports/F2s/Mono Flex all have monotube dampers. Tein SS/Type Flex have twin tube dampers.

Found this on H-T:
"Monotube - the fluid and gas inside are highly pressurized and are separated with a movable piston.

Advantages:
1) It gives more fluid volume --- energy from spring oscillation is mainly being dissipated in a form of heat and absorbed by the fluid. So higher fluid volume equals higher heat capacity. Remote reservoir has almost double the fluid volume and the reservoirs can be located away from the heat source (ie. inside the driving compartment.)
2) Valve diameter is big. It gives the same amount of energy dissipation with shorter stroke. It performs well even with very little shock travel. So it is ideal for low ride height and stiff springs (1000 lbs+ springs).
3) Highly pressurized gas and fluid eliminate cavitation (air bubble in fluid) so performance is consistent.

Disadvantages:
1) Highly pressurized means higher construction cost.
2) More fluid means heavier unsprung weight (but still lighter than most twin tube dampers). So some monotube dampers are made with aluminum shell -- expensive.
3) Large diameter valve responses very well to transitional load (cornering, accelerating, braking) but responses very slow to bumps so it is not ideal for street use.

Twin Tube - A smaller tube is inside the outside shell and the valve is inside that smaller tube. Fluid and gas are in direct contact and are lowly pressurized.

Advantages:
1) Low construction cost and easy to rebuild.
2) Responses well to bumps and transitional load, but need longer shock travel.
3) Ideal for street and occasional track use.

Disadvantages:
1) Cavitation may occur under extreme use (track use) because of low pressure fluid inside.
2) Cannot handle high spring rates like the monotube.
3) Ride height needs to be set according to the amount of shock travel, usually means a bit higher ride height."

I've driven my friend's Evo 8 with the Tein Type Flex (twin tube) setup 12k front/10k rear and the ride is WAY more comfortable and smoother than my D2s (monotube), even with the EDFC set at the stiffest setting.

About F2s, I was searching Youtube on how to adjust the height on the Tein SS (since you have to adjust the height along with the spring load) and came across this:

"Well mine were underdampened to the max. I bottomed out on every single little dip and dive in the road. It was over stuff that was like an inch deep that I wouldn't even think twice about in on my Teins. They were bouncing, as in they were too soft. The springs were much stiffer than my Teins' but the shocks were horrible so they just felt like crap. Handling was diminished and they weren't very comfy..."

So I guess they're pretty soft. Here's the link:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=tLRdo8atXbM

It all depends on what you want. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by GhettoNinja06

yes i searched but quick n00b question...
Shocks are Struts right?

Originally Posted by fliplyricist1

Well if you wanna go super dumped, then go D2's. I'm dropped about 2 inches all around and slightly tucking rubber and still have another 2.5-3 inches of thread to work with. You can hammer the shit out of your car with D2's. And if you do plan on riding with rim near fender, you're going to want the super stiff ride so that you dont bottom out so much. With going that low, you're going to have to sacrafice things, most notably ride quality. But since its a full coilover sleeve, the preload remains the same so the only thing you have to do is mess with the damper dial to find where your comfort 'sweet spot' is.

Originally Posted by ZeroCL

wow, his car did get owned..

also, the quick ass turn/slide in this is pretty slick..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUHmT...eature=related

too bad my car has to be over pebbles or it has to be wet to do it..maybe im just retarded.

Originally Posted by ZeroCL

wow, his car did get owned..

also, the quick ass turn/slide in this is pretty slick..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUHmT...eature=related

too bad my car has to be over pebbles or it has to be wet to do it..maybe im just retarded.

Originally Posted by CLpwner

No offense, but you're just retarded...

You gotta jerk the wheel and pull the e-brake simultaneously.

Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL

^^^^ omni's are stiff as hell, too stiff, their one downfall is that you can't adjust the dampening, that's why i sold mine

Originally Posted by 972xghost

at this point im really leaning toward the GC/Koni's. i have not head anything bad about them. even talked to local friends in the Vdub and bimmer scene and even those guys swear by that setup.

Originally Posted by 972xghost

umm wtf happened to intelligent conversations about slamming CL's.

get this shit out.

Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL

i saw them cheap on h-t for about $600

Originally Posted by Germ

im sorry whats h-t?