I stumbled into a blown F22B1 last week. Got it for $50 . Been completely stripping it down to the bare block. So far this is what it looks like.





Need opinions on either:

1. Rebore the stock sleeves (supposedly good to 15 or so psi) or
2. Get the block sleeved by golden eagle ($650 good to 40 psi).

Since the turbo is still running awesome I'm in no hurry so #2 is an option but I'd rather spend that $650 + proceeds of selling the VAFC, FMU, Profec B to get the AEM EMS......

Help me decide.

BTW #3 and #4 piston ring lands were broken on this little gem. Supposedly left a trail of smoke behind it before it was pulled. No wonder. You can see part of the ringland laying on the cardboard in the pic above.

 

Are you planning to replace your current engine with this "rebuildable" engine?

 

Yeah, my thought was building a bullet proof 20 psi f22b1.

Havn't found anything on this engine that new pistons wouldnt take care of.

Might up the compression to 9.5 from 8.8 to 1 to spool the turbo quicker and get more out of the boost.

I figure I'll wait till the one I've got blows or use it as the guinea pig for the EMS and then throw this one in.

 

If time and money were not an issue, I would DEFINITELY do option #2!

Good luck with your decision! :envy:

 

make sure you test it and run it the way you want it to, before you're going to run the current engine to the ground.

If you engine blows and the rebuild engine blowzz... you're stuck w/ no engine.

 

...thats what the civic hatchback is for. Daily drivers rule. No worries.

 

open deck

i would get it re-sleeved and bump the compression. custom slugs take forever to get made (as one of my frineds found out the hard way).

get some upgraded rods cower... i dont recall JE making any for the f22 ... but i could be out of date.

cams? still cant find one... i called Gude to see about their products and was not too pleased with the result.
they want fawking $511 for regrinds of the stock cam.

just get it rebored... 15 psi is plenty for that car. JMO

 

I hate to be that guy but where did you buy that engine? I've been wanting to do the same thing and I definently wouldnt mind having any one of the H22 series motors for $50 blown or in 90 different pieces

 

correct me if Im wrong but I heard some where that pistons and rods for the H22A work on our cars....

 

All f22b1's are open deck

Good luck getting an H22a for $50. Even blown your gonna spend 10X that.

No the H22A has different internals

 

Got a problem. Gotta get the pistons before I can get the sleeving done (have to hone to the piston diameter).

Wanting to get pistons and rods. Liking JE and eagle. Want to bump compression up to 9.5.

Problem:

Where do you get internals for an F22B1? raceeng.com is the only place I can find listing the f22. Looks like they might have to be all custom.

 

Went ahead and got the internals from raceeng. 8.8:1 Weisco pistons and crower rods. Ordered them last Monday and they came today. Got the 8.8:1 since they had em on their shelf and I got plenty of power out of they stock compression with uncomplicated tuning.



Gotta start crating the block up.

 

personally if it was my motor and i was building a weekend "play around car" and you want a good amount of performance here's the steps i'd take
#1 have the blocked sleeved
#2 get the WHOLE lower end Forged(pistons,crank, con rods)(that way if you should down the road add NOS Forged takes NOS better and plus it's stronger)
#3 add a mild cam(a lot of your american motor builders do this but at the same time you'll lose milage)
#4 put in bigger injectors
#5 install a larger fuel rail(this is a good way to pick up power)

 

so are the H22's after 95

 

Do you know where to get a crank for an F22B1?

 

..wow.. i just wrote sumthing really long that didn't make sense.. lol.. anyways.. to my knowledge h22a and f22a bottom ends are the same.. so get some h22a JE pistons, and crower rods.. put a better headgasket.. and run boost.. if you have more money to get it sleeved and what not.. get it copper o-ringed as well.. and see if you can get ARP headstuds for an f22a.. or just put all the money into the top end.. i've seen a lot of turbo honda's with stock bottom ends.. .. if you do it right.. you'll make power with it

 

The rods on a H22 are longer. The pistons are different as well with the H22 compression being 10.X:1.

Our heads use bolts not studs j/k. You have a source on where to get arp stuff for an f22?

 

If you got the cash to build up that motor then I just read the current issue of Sport Compact Car Magazine and it has a huge section on ACCORD PARTS. Gude head kits, cams, throttle-bodies, pistons, rods etc.

Check it out, very good resource.

 

.whats it matter that the pistons are different compression, if your buying aftermarket parts.. you choose your compression.. i'm not certain on the rods.. but i'm pretty sure they're the same...call arp up for a headstud kit

 

They are bolts not studs.

 

I love F22's so cheap and underrated. Look what came in the mail today.



Not bad. An entire tranny for $125 shipped to my door. (OK, $200 for the tranny and fly shipped, but sohfast.com buys the flywheels for $75).

Just need to find a quaife or kaaz lsd to put in now.

Just need an intake manifold to have a second complete f22b1 to drop in when I get done building it.

 

Not a bad price, I paid like $450 for an h22a4 tranny picked up. Do you think an h23 tranny would be a better tranny for your setup? Just curious on your opinion.
By the way any luck with the valve springs? I you still want I can take pics next to a ruler of my skunk2 h22 valve springs.

 

From what I've read the F22 tranny has longer gears and allows you to stay in boost longer.

If you can get a pic of the length and diameter that'd be great.

 

Dug up this old thread since I sent the block and pistons off to golden eagle today. Cant wait to get it back and start reassembling.



Check 'em out. Good to 40 psi once it comes back (not near enough fuel to go with that).

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeves.htm

 

:-D

 

the gears on the f23 trannys are even longer im preety sure

 

Pretty happy with the F22 ratios so far.

More worried about an LSD now.

 

where did you get a entire tranny for 125 shipped??
i need one really bad, i still don't have 5th
sohfast.com bought your stock fly for 75? wow you think they'll take mine

 

Got it from a guy on honda-tech.com (accord forum). Tons of swaps leave the market flooded with F22/3 parts. Got a manifold and t/b shipped to me for $100. Its like an online junkyard if you look hard enough (classifieds forum too).

This is my second sale of a fly to sohfast. It all depends on if they need 'em.

 

thanks for the site
i just posted, hopefully i'll get a tranny for cheap

 

5 Weeks later....





Sizing the bearings tonight.....

25 psi anyone?

 

DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
you da man...hope everything works out for you.
"Happy turboing"

 

Got the following parts today from

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

91214-PR4-A01 OIL SEAL (80X100X10) (NOK) 1
91314-PH7-003 O-RING (31.2X4.1) (NIPPON OIL-SEAL) 1
13014-P11-800 WASHER SET, THRUST (DAIDO) 1
13321-PT0-003 BEARING A, MAIN (BLACK) (DAIDO) 1
13322-PT0-003 BEARING B, MAIN (BROWN) (DAIDO) 6
13323-PT0-003 BEARING C, MAIN (GREEN) (DAIDO) 3
19313-PT0-000 GASKET, THERMOSTAT CASE 1
13404-PT0-004 ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT (NIPPON SEIKO) 1
13407-P0A-000 SPRING, BELT ADJUSTER 1
14510-PT0-004 ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT (NIPPON SEIKO) 1
14516-P0A-000 SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER 1
13406-PT0-003 METAL, THRUST BALANCER SHAFT (F) 1
19200-P0A-003 WATER PUMP COMP. 1
91312-P0A-000 GASKET, THERMOSTAT CASE 1
13025-P14-800 BEARING D SET, CONNECTING ROD (GREEN) (DAIDO) 3
13026-P14-800 BEARING E SET, CONNECTING ROD (YELLOW) (DAIDO) 1


They sent me halves of the rod bearings instead of sets so I cant do the rods yet...but will start on the crank tomorrow.

They also left the rear main seal out of the shipment. Anyone else deal with these idiots?

BTW, the only parts that are cheaper at http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.net/ was the oil pump ($20 difference).

Should be ready for the head stuff (gasket/timing belts) after XMAS.

 

Good luck!

 

Keep up the good work.

What manual are you using if any? Or do you just know it in your head? I'd be afraid to forget some small but important thing.

How much did the bearing set cost?

 

Full set of bearings (mains and rods) was $160 or so.

Using my factory service manual. Best $60 I ever spent.

 

Went to the machine shop Friday. They said they needed the clutch and flywheel to do the balancing prior to my rebuild of crank, rods, and pistons. So.......I pulled the engine and tranny out this weekend since I only have one clutch and flywheel.

 

so this means you can now run 25 psi with your turbo?

how much will this increase your time? how much is it costing you total to do it all?

 

GE only warranties the block to 60 psi....:P

The balancing of all the internals, crank pulley, fly, etc....$120

The labor is free for the most part.

 

What's the status of your engine (clutch/flywheel) balancing)?

Are you coping ok without the CL?????