front rotors
front rotors
Has anyone taken off the front rotors on the 2.2? I tried this weekend and failed misrebly. please help this poor boy!!!! 
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'97 2.2 CL (very white)|DC DAC Intake |DC SS cat-back |DC Short shift adapter |Custom interior and grille

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'97 2.2 CL (very white)|DC DAC Intake |DC SS cat-back |DC Short shift adapter |Custom interior and grille
What seemed to be the problem?? was it those pain in the ass little screws?? They are not that hard to take off, unless your car has some major mileage on it, they should be relatively easy to get off. First you have to un-bolt the caliper, 2 17mm bolts from the back side of the caliper, and I believe there are 2 philips head screws holding the rotor on (its been too long since i've had mine off), which really do not need to be replaced, so if you break them, its not a big deal. Then usually with a rubber mallet or a strong foot, you can break the rotors loose from the hub. I dont know where your problem was, but I hope I was of some help, let me know if not.
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1997 ACURA 3.0 CL PREMIUM
Apex-i cat-back Exhaust, AEM Intake, Clear Bumper Lenses, 18" ADR Cyrax rims, Ground Control Coilovers, Wings West Chin Spoiler, Acura Rear spoiler, Piaa Fog Lights, Tinted Windows, Boston Acoustics tweets, mids and subs.
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1997 ACURA 3.0 CL PREMIUM
Apex-i cat-back Exhaust, AEM Intake, Clear Bumper Lenses, 18" ADR Cyrax rims, Ground Control Coilovers, Wings West Chin Spoiler, Acura Rear spoiler, Piaa Fog Lights, Tinted Windows, Boston Acoustics tweets, mids and subs.
My front rotors dont have little screws, my rear do. My front has four bolts that I did unscrew but it didn't come off. I basicly took apart the whole assembly but couln't get it off
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'97 2.2 CL (very white)
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'97 2.2 CL (very white)
- DC DAC Intake
- DC SS cat-back
- DC Short shift adapter
- Custom interior and gille
I just replaced the front rotors on my 1998 3.0 CL.
There are two small 6 mm retaining phillips machine screws that must be removed. From experience I have found it is best to remove these screws with an impact screwdriver because there is typically corrosion "bonding" them tightly in place. Sears makes an excellent impact driver. Also, these screws seem to be made of a relatively soft alloy so the head can bugger up very easily.
The rotor will probably not easily come loose from the hub. You will note two threaded holes in the rotor that are 90 degrees displaced from the non-threaded holes that the two small retaining phillips screws were in. If you screw two machine screws (8 x 1.25 mm)into these holes, they will push the rotor off the hub. Tighten down on these screws symmetrically so you do not risk warping the rotor. The factory service manual reccommends no more than two turns at a time. The rotor might suddenly jump free but it is not likely to just fall off the hub. In any case I would suggest you be ready to catch it.
Hope this helps.
There are two small 6 mm retaining phillips machine screws that must be removed. From experience I have found it is best to remove these screws with an impact screwdriver because there is typically corrosion "bonding" them tightly in place. Sears makes an excellent impact driver. Also, these screws seem to be made of a relatively soft alloy so the head can bugger up very easily.
The rotor will probably not easily come loose from the hub. You will note two threaded holes in the rotor that are 90 degrees displaced from the non-threaded holes that the two small retaining phillips screws were in. If you screw two machine screws (8 x 1.25 mm)into these holes, they will push the rotor off the hub. Tighten down on these screws symmetrically so you do not risk warping the rotor. The factory service manual reccommends no more than two turns at a time. The rotor might suddenly jump free but it is not likely to just fall off the hub. In any case I would suggest you be ready to catch it.
Hope this helps.
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asahrts
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Sep 4, 2015 05:55 PM



