The Final H22 Swap Q & A

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Old 08-19-2004, 05:42 PM
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The Final H22 Swap Q & A

ok i hope to make this thread perfect info for the H22 swap, so I would really like it if people with good info posted. and not being a dick about it but well you know.
Many people want to get the H22 swap but have tons of questions about what tranny to put in, what OBD to use, ECU, all that. Even myself wish to get the H22 in one of these days but again I dont know where to get started. so here we go.

1. H22's that are engine only - no tranny no ECU - are they worth it? can they just be installed directly? Can we use the F22 tranny on it ?

2. What is the difference between OBD 1 and 2? Which one is better?

3. What really is needed to make the swap? Mounts? ECU? H22 Tranny?

Anything else that can help the n00bs out with this would really be appreciated.

Thanks for anyone that has the time and patience for this but I'm sure I speak for alot of us that are tired of looking up info and affriad to make a buy on something that sounds to good to be true. again thanks in advance for everything. - dep3che
Old 08-19-2004, 06:13 PM
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roomate has a CL too
 
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1. the h22 short block needs extra things to make it run. an ECU. the h22 can be installed directly into engine bay. yes f22 tranny works.

2. OBD1 is easier to mod with.
Old 08-19-2004, 06:24 PM
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Is the Short block Vs. Long block a big difference to how it fits in the bay? Pro and Cons for both would really help -- more for thread !!

also what are the extra things to "make it run"
Old 08-19-2004, 06:27 PM
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I think short block means it does not come with a transmission. thus the block is short. a long block has the transmission attached which makes it long. I could be wrong.
Old 08-19-2004, 06:45 PM
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a short block is a motor with out stuff like the head and all intake manifold and everything on top, pretty much just a block w/ pistons, crank and rods. a long block is usally complete motor.
Old 08-19-2004, 09:07 PM
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damn dude ur gonna confuse more people than you help with this thread

Heres the answer to all of your noob questions.

If you don't know a ton about cars, just take your car to a local shop and do the whole swap through them. Install, parts everything. You can get it done for less than $3000 out the door, installed and everything. (like me ) Plus they might give you money for your old motor. My swap cost me $2400 cause they gave me 500 for my f23.

btw- obd1 is on the 92-96 h22's. obd2 is on the newer 97+ ones. OBD1 pulls a tiny bit harder, maybe a carlength or two in the 1/4.
Old 08-19-2004, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SooDARK
btw- obd1 is on the 92-96 h22's. obd2 is on the newer 97+ ones. OBD1 pulls a tiny bit harder, maybe a carlength or two in the 1/4.

1996's were OBD-II

First year honda went to the lowered emissions for the h22a1
Old 08-19-2004, 10:11 PM
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05' 350z 6spd.
 
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Originally Posted by Mach30SiR
1996's were OBD-II

First year honda went to the lowered emissions for the h22a1
really? hmmm oh well guess i just assumed it changed when the body changed for some reason. so 96 ludes are slow too
Old 08-19-2004, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SooDARK
really? hmmm oh well guess i just assumed it changed when the body changed for some reason. so 96 ludes are slow too
i woudln't say they are slower when comparing stock to stock obd 1 and obd 2

obd 1 reacts better to mods, and ever sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooo slightly at that, this bit about 1-2 car lengths is not true at alllllll.
Old 08-19-2004, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mach30SiR
i woudln't say they are slower when comparing stock to stock obd 1 and obd 2

obd 1 reacts better to mods, and ever sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooo slightly at that, this bit about 1-2 car lengths is not true at alllllll.
dude the OBD1 motors, (JDM and 92-95) pull harder for sure. The times are always better too. People try to say it's cause the 4th gen is lighter, but it's only 200 lbs. That helps, but then how do you explain the hybrid accords and cl's that run high 14's stock just like the older ludes could. The accords and cl's weigh 2800-3100 lbs, but they all usually have JDM motors cause they are cheaper than US ones. Untill you pay to illegally smog it OBD1 h22's pulls harder stock.

I've raced a few of my friends ludes that have more mods than my e/i, and they lose to me... From any gear roll, or off the line.
Old 08-20-2004, 01:39 AM
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[QUOTE] damn dude ur gonna confuse more people than you help with this thread
If you don't know a ton about cars, just take your car to a local shop and do the whole swap through them. Install, parts everything. You can get it done for less than $3000 out the door, installed and everything. (like me ) Plus they might give you money for your old motor. My swap cost me $2400 cause they gave me 500 for my f23. [QUOTE]


Yes we all know we can go to a shop to have it done. But I'm trying to make this thread, like all the others, to avoid having to go through the shops. I'm looking to install and do all the work on my own. People gotta learn what they are doing

And thanks for everyone in posting. and since were getting lots of post of what years pull harder vs. the newer years, how can we tell what year the engine is that we would be buying??
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