slow scoob

i know alot of you will probably tell me to search, but im looking to talk to someone that has actually completed this or a similar swap...

i have a 97 3.0 cl, 172,000 miles, i have replaced all bushings with a poly kit, new brake calipers, rotors and pads (front and back).

i purchased a totalled 01 cl-s, the body is destroyed but drivetrain is almost perfect with 77,000 miles.

my transmission and engine are starting to show signs of age, it slips from second to third, and the check engine light is on. also a very very slight tick at idle, egr valve needs to be replaced, etc.

so what i would like to do is replace at least the engine and tranny with the type s pieces. i know that they will bolt up fine, but im curious as to what the wiring issues will be. the complete electrical system on the type s is in excellent shape as well...

i guess what im looking for is some guidance on where to go with this. i have decent mechanical skill, i have swapped a civic and second gen rx7, along with a 93 impreza. i dont know a terrible amount about the wiring and engine control/ emissions system. if any can help me out, please do. i am looking to start the swap in the middle of june, so id like to get everything ready parts wise by the end of may...

thanks for reading the long post i know it was rather long

spencer_homer

should be sick when your done. good luck

slow scoob

i want to use the whole type s ecu and transmission control, but thats the part i know nothing about, as far as bolting up the motor and tranny, that part is easy. i just dont want to end up over my head like i did with the subaru, and have to get help mid-swap, id really like to know what to expect this time.

and maybe save a few dollars.... i doubt that though

spencer_homer

the man u want to talk to is cocoa. he did a big swap kinda similar

spencer_homer

he swapped a J35 3.5L odyssey block, and a CL-S head with 6 speed tranny into his

slow scoob

we should get him to chirp in on this, i dont want to bother him

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Wiring is gonna be a BITCH that's all I know

slow scoob

why do you say that? do you know of specific problems?

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

As for going with the CLS auto tranny, you might want to take a look at the dimensions and compare it with the stock tranny. This will let you know if you're going to need cutom mounts or not. I'm not aware of the auto tranny size compared to our stock one so this is something you will need to find out. If it's larger (longer from left to right let's say), then that would require for you to relocate the front mount a bit to the left some and get a custom mount made for the rear and tranny. (That's what I ended up having to do since the 6 speed tranny was longer by about 2 inches or so).

As for the wiring, it is a bitch. I did have written down in my notes as to why it was, but I lost my notes over my countless trips and moves back and forth from Texas and Cali as this was a 17 month project. I'm not going to lie, I suck as well with wiring, but am capable of pulling motors, changing cluthes, and just about everything else with a car.

As for what was done with my wiring, the shop integrated the wiring from my stock harness with the CLS harness. This would mean you'll have to look over every single individual wire and where it would connect with the ECU and go from there. There will be a lot of splices and use of the original wires. The reason for this had something to do with how the wiring was done for both cars. Apparently the way information delivered from the stock j30 was completely different than the CLS's. So there was no unplugging and replugging of the new wiring harness with the ECU and such like other swaps. Again, I dont have a clue as to what it takes to wire this thing. All I know is that when they explained it to me, I was just glad someone else had to firgure it out, and not me.

There is no plug and play harness, so you will def start from scratch with the wiring. I recommend having someone that knows what they are doing to help with just the wiring and mounts if custom ones are needed.

Also, you have to remember that the CLS engine sits about 2-3 inches higher than our stock engine and you will have issues closing the hood. That's not a big problem as that can be fixed with spacers on the hood, or cutting of the metal cover on the inside of the hood. Cosmetics are the last thing to worry about.

Since you have the CLS on hand, you wont need to worry about buying sensors and not, but please remember to have the right sensors to the right ECU. So since you are going with the CLS ecu, you will def need to keep the crank positioning sensor on the CLS tranny to match the CLS ECU.

To get the Butterfly valve to work, you will need to find the module that runs it inside the car. I believe they are located somewhere in the back seat. You will need that in order to get your butterfly to work, which I'm more than sure you know what it does. Just something to remember...

Where are you located?

Also, if you want easy power, you can go with the 02' Odyssey short block and bolt that sucker up using all your stock plugs and sensors. If you do that work yourself, it should only run you the cost of the block itself, and you'll have yourself a 3.5L CL.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Did you copy my comment from the other thread? looks exactly like what I typed

hornedfrog2000

he swapped a J35 3.5L odyssey block, and a CL-S head with 6 speed tranny into his

agranado

he swapped a J35 3.5L odyssey block, and a CL-S head with 6 speed tranny into his

slow scoob

im in CT.

the cls is drive by wire?

the only reason i dont want to swap just the motor is because my tranny has tops ten thousand miles left in it, so id much rather do it all in one fell swoop.

is there any possibility to run the cls off my ecu and sensors?

who did you have do the engine mounts for you? and how much did they cost?

where did you get your six speed? how much more work was that.. just the hole in the firewall and mount the master cylinder?

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

The mounts were $1000 only because of trail and error. Went through I dont know how many, but they also said they would never make them again. I've asked already for other fellow members, so that will have to be from scratch.

The 6 speed, yea, like I said, it required a custom mount for it, the usual things you need for a auto to manual conversion still applies, nothing big. The pedal was actually put together from two different pedals as one and the other did not work by itself. I mixed the 94-97 accord pdeal with the CLS pedal. Dont ask why one wouldnt work over the other, but it just didnt and I was there when we mixed the two up. We used something off the CLS pedal for the 94-97 accords pedal. In order to run the 6 speed though, you need the 6 speed CLS Ecu as the others wont work.

To run the CLS head with our wiring would require modifications as well. That has been done before and there was a write up on it on the forums we cant mention "v 6 p e r f o r m a n c e . n e t" without all the spaces. You can do a lot of different things, but most of which requires a tricky thing or two. (had issues with running the lines for the egr ports and such) Let me know if this helps any.

Again, easiest thing in the world for any fellow cl member to do is to stroke the 30 to a 3.5 for a very reasonable price. Biggest pain in the ass is getting involved with the CLS head and changing ecu's.

I think I've done some write ups in the past to help others, but I kind of forget what I've done and havent done for others. A lot of the helpful info I've written were through pms which were erased, and would require for me to do my homework again to get deffenite answers.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

To just through in the CLS engine while using your stock ecu and wiring harness, would still require you to do some splitting of the wires and such since the J32A2 has things the J30A1 doesnt have. It can be done though, just gotta have someone go through all the wires and start coming up with the plan of attack.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

Here's some of the old info I found for ya in one of my old threads/posts about the 6 speed swap:

Engine. J32A2 If needing a new engine look for a CLs-6 motor (if not see below *)
03 CLs-6 speed manual.
03 CLs-6 Manual Engine Harness. 32110-PGE-A11
03 CLs 6 speed ECU
03 CLs-6 Flywheel 22105-PGE-305
03 CLs-6 Flywheel bolts (Qty 8) 90011-PGE-000
03 CLs-6 Clutch Assembly 22105-PGE-305 (unfortunately right now there arent many options for aftermarket clutches)
03 CLs-6 Rear Engine mount and bracket 50810-S3M-A01, 50827-S3M-A00, BOLT (m12X25) 90166-S3M-A00
03 CLs-6 Rearand Front Engine Dampenerand bracket (i would reccomend aftermarket here)
03 CLs-6 Shifter and cables. 54100-S3M-A01, 54310-S3M-A01
03 CLs-6 Starter 31200-PGE-A11 (try to locate used, its expensive)
03 CLs-6 Gauges
03 CLs-6 Hydraulic Clutch lines. 46960-S3M-A01, & 46970-S3M-A01
03 CLs-6 Trans mounts (2 of them) 50806-S3M-A03, 50805-S3M-A03
03 CLs-6 Cup Holder 77230-S3M-A01ZA
03 CLs-6 Parking brake 47105-S3M-A04ZA and to go with it,
Spring 47537-671-670, Nut 47522-594-000, Equalizer pin 47365-538-000, Equalizer 47360-SB2-000


*If you use the J32A2 from the Auto you will need these parts (all from the CLs-6)

Front cam pulley 14260-PGE-A11
Front plate assembly (behind cam pulley) 11860-PGE-A10
Timing belt pulley(lower) 13621-PGE-A11
Crank shaft sensor 37500-PGE-A11 (this little sh!t costs $500.00)
Subharness for CKP 37501-PGE-A10
TDC Sensors (Qty 2) 37840-PGE-A11
TDC SUB HARNESS 37841-PGE-A10



If you dont already have the Type-s you will want the IMRC 37850-PGE-A01

Brake/Gas pedal assembly from either the accord or CLs-6. (i modified mine)
If you decide to buy it new BRAKE PEDAL ASSY 46600-S3M-A51

Clutch pedal. (this can be from a few cars, i took mine from a 90s civic. it was almost a direct bolt in.
It uses 3 points to bolt in only 2 lined up. I modified a bolt and shim to make it bolt up in the 3rd spot)

If you decide to buy it new you will need the pedal and mount CLUTCH PEDAL 46910-S3M-A01 & CLUTCH PEDAL BRACKET 46990-S84-A01
MASTER CYLINDER ASSY 46922-S3M-A01 & Clutch Fluid Tank 46965-S5A-013, & Clutch Hose 46961-S3M-A02
(i used the one from the civic i pulled the clutch pedal out of)

Things im not sure if you will need but i bought.

Relay box assembly (under hood) 38250-S3M-A21
Shift Boot 83414-S3M-A01ZA
Shift Knob 54102-SL0-023ZB

If you have a header you will either have to have the XS header or COmptech header for the manual. Other wise it wont fit
You will be able to reuse the stock manifolds




To answer your questions:

1. The obvious parts you need for any auto to manual swap. Use the 5th gen accord stuff. I used a custom clutch pedal though which combined the 5th gen and CLS clutch pedal.

2. If you use the stock ECU, you have to trick it into thinking it's in Neutral for it to run. Otherwise you're stuck going up to 5000rpms only. (either that or it was tricking that it was in D4 all the time, I really forgot) BUT, there is a harness that will run you about $500-700 on v-6-p- that will take care of the bugs that come with the 6speed swap on the stock engines. The other bugs that come up is the no reverse lights, reverse lock out, speedo, and vtec. Again, the harness fixes all that. You have to go to the site I and do the homework on that. I never bothered thinking of going that route since I wanted the full swap.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

Let me see what other old posts/threads of mine I have that will help. It's been awhile since i've had anyone ask me questions referring to the swap.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

well I'm at work right now, let me help you out some more when I get home. I should really get back to work...

spencer_homer

well i looked at this thread, then the other one, and i was like he put it perfectly. and im really lazy so maybe..........hahha

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Just wondering

asianspec

iTrader: (1)

prepare to take a low blow to your wallet.

slow scoob

so it looks like i might want to just try and get the motor in and wire off my harness? im not rich, and it seems like the whole thing will cost a lot more than im wiling to spend?

any ideas?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

My idea is that it'll cost more than you want to spend, any motor swap usually does

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

When getting involved with something that has never been done before (or in this case just once), I suggest attacking it first with a financial plan for the worst case scenarios.