Euro F20 motor
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Euro F20 motor
Does anybody know any thing about the F20 motors that came in Euro Accords. I've been seeing them a lot cheaper than H22's so I was woundering how they compair.
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#8
this motor will produce higher rpms, and yes, its OBDII which means you wont need to convert or buy a conversion harness, but you will need to rewire your existing harness just a tad to make everything work without any cell's. Also, because the motor is only 2.L you do loose some torque but gain hp. If your doing alot of road racing and circuit style events, id recommend this motor. this motor is also great if your class doesnt allow you to go past 2 liters.
Just to let you know as well, the jacksonracing supercharger will fit with some minor modifications. It will mate to the head just like any other H22. the euro motor has a much better plenum desighn that the H22 as well. To make the supercharger fit with an H/Euro motor in your cl all you need to do is hammer the rear supporting wall ( some call it the fire wall, however the firewall is simply a thick rubber fire retardent matt )....you need to hammer out 1.4 inches from the center left rib.
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Originally Posted by AgentOrange
this motor will produce higher rpms, and yes, its OBDII which means you wont need to convert or buy a conversion harness, but you will need to rewire your existing harness just a tad to make everything work without any cell's. Also, because the motor is only 2.L you do loose some torque but gain hp. If your doing alot of road racing and circuit style events, id recommend this motor. this motor is also great if your class doesnt allow you to go past 2 liters.
Just to let you know as well, the jacksonracing supercharger will fit with some minor modifications. It will mate to the head just like any other H22. the euro motor has a much better plenum desighn that the H22 as well. To make the supercharger fit with an H/Euro motor in your cl all you need to do is hammer the rear supporting wall ( some call it the fire wall, however the firewall is simply a thick rubber fire retardent matt )....you need to hammer out 1.4 inches from the center left rib.
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Check this out, They use an F20 block, H22 bearing, rods, and pistons, and a K24 crankshaft.
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/06...stroker_build/
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/06...stroker_build/
#14
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Its useless since there isnt an aftermarket for F20 and strangely that its cheaper than the H22 since when I had my CL and looked into it the price was more. I would just get the H22 replace the rods and pistons and boost the hell out of it, instead of going through the hassle on trying to find replacement parts for an F20B
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Originally Posted by CL Platano
Its useless since there isnt an aftermarket for F20 and strangely that its cheaper than the H22 since when I had my CL and looked into it the price was more. I would just get the H22 replace the rods and pistons and boost the hell out of it, instead of going through the hassle on trying to find replacement parts for an F20B
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Alex (the banned one) did a euro f20 swap a while ago, but it seized up before he could really drive it enough to test it out.
do the f20c and euro f20 use the same block and different heads/internals or is the block different? Could you bolt an f20c head up to an f20?
excuse my
ness please
do the f20c and euro f20 use the same block and different heads/internals or is the block different? Could you bolt an f20c head up to an f20?
excuse my
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#17
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Originally Posted by AgentOrange
this motor will produce higher rpms, and yes, its OBDII which means you wont need to convert or buy a conversion harness, but you will need to rewire your existing harness just a tad to make everything work without any cell's. Also, because the motor is only 2.L you do loose some torque but gain hp. If your doing alot of road racing and circuit style events, id recommend this motor. this motor is also great if your class doesnt allow you to go past 2 liters.
Just to let you know as well, the jacksonracing supercharger will fit with some minor modifications. It will mate to the head just like any other H22. the euro motor has a much better plenum desighn that the H22 as well. To make the supercharger fit with an H/Euro motor in your cl all you need to do is hammer the rear supporting wall ( some call it the fire wall, however the firewall is simply a thick rubber fire retardent matt )....you need to hammer out 1.4 inches from the center left rib.
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#18
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Originally Posted by mugen_moby
Check this out, They use an F20 block, H22 bearing, rods, and pistons, and a K24 crankshaft.
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/06...stroker_build/
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/06...stroker_build/
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Originally Posted by CL Platano
This is the S2000 F20C mixed with the TSX but nothing to do with the F20B Euro Accord. You say you found tons of stuff so is there your basic bolt ons for the F20B?
#20
Originally Posted by mugen_moby
Correct me if im wrong but I think the blocks are the same.
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F20C S2000 RWD
F20B Euro Accord FWD
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Originally Posted by SmokinH22CL
I dont know if the blocks are the same
F20C S2000 RWD
F20B Euro Accord FWD
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F20C S2000 RWD
F20B Euro Accord FWD
#22
Originally Posted by mugen_moby
Just cause its rear wheel drive I dont see why the blocks would have to be any different, just position of motor.
#23
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F20B
[edit] F20B
This engine series was used in the CF4, CF5, CF9, CL3 Honda Accord from 1998-2002. Also had a DOHC derivative (see below)
Specifications
Bore × Stroke: 85.0 × 88.0 mm
Displacement: 1997 cc
Valve Configuration: SOHC, 16 valves, VTEC
Compression ratio: 11.0:1
Max power: 148 PS (109 kW) @ 6000 rpm (4WD), 150 PS (110 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Max torque: 183 Nm @ 5000 rpm (4WD), 186 Nm @ 5000 rpm
F20C
This engine was a radical departure from previous F engines, and only shared basic dimensions such as bore spacing. It was designed specifically for the Honda S2000 and shares some engineering with the Honda K engine. A long-stroke F22C1 variant was also produced
Dont mean to come off like an ass just seems you have your F20's confused and it would just be alot easier to go the H22 route since its been done tons of times and there is plenty of information on it.
[edit] F20B
This engine series was used in the CF4, CF5, CF9, CL3 Honda Accord from 1998-2002. Also had a DOHC derivative (see below)
Specifications
Bore × Stroke: 85.0 × 88.0 mm
Displacement: 1997 cc
Valve Configuration: SOHC, 16 valves, VTEC
Compression ratio: 11.0:1
Max power: 148 PS (109 kW) @ 6000 rpm (4WD), 150 PS (110 kW) @ 6000 rpm
Max torque: 183 Nm @ 5000 rpm (4WD), 186 Nm @ 5000 rpm
F20C
This engine was a radical departure from previous F engines, and only shared basic dimensions such as bore spacing. It was designed specifically for the Honda S2000 and shares some engineering with the Honda K engine. A long-stroke F22C1 variant was also produced
Dont mean to come off like an ass just seems you have your F20's confused and it would just be alot easier to go the H22 route since its been done tons of times and there is plenty of information on it.
#27
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Originally Posted by CL Platano
Its useless since there isnt an aftermarket for F20 and strangely that its cheaper than the H22 since when I had my CL and looked into it the price was more. I would just get the H22 replace the rods and pistons and boost the hell out of it, instead of going through the hassle on trying to find replacement parts for an F20B
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Originally Posted by SilverCL97
you go to wyotech? how is that?
#31
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Originally Posted by mugen_moby
Check this out, They use an F20 block, H22 bearing, rods, and pistons, and a K24 crankshaft.
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/06...stroker_build/
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/06...stroker_build/
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Originally Posted by mugen_moby
Well my core class, Automitive, was a little rushed I thought but my chassis faburcation class is awsome.
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#36
let me clear things up.
The F20C ( s2k ) is nothing like the F20b ( Euro R ). They have different blocks and different head desighns altogether.
Secondly, For you purpous, i would buy the H22 over the F20B. Not only will you get more TQ with the H powerplant, but you can also take the F20Bs intake manifold and strike it on the H block for better flow. At that point, all you'll need is this:
To keep it simple and NA it will take the following
Dave's port match work ( take the TB and IM to him and he will bore it all out to max spec with tapper. for 160 he'll port match to IM and do the TB
www.maxbore.com
0.030 off the head ( better take it to a machine shop for this ) 100$
Crower cams street setup 350-529.99
Euro R intake manifold 229.99-289.99
RMF header ( heat wrapped or not....its up to you ) 900 or less
17 inch test pipe with 1 o2 bung and a 2.5 inch flange 70 or less
2.5 inch exhaust all they way back 300
BB6 JDM airbox or CAI of your choice ( i would say ITBS but for cost's sake ) 189.99
Fujita or aem filter 40 if your using a cai/sri
Hondata S200 199.99 or lower
200$ dyno time
launch control ( for draging ) 89.99-220.99
Thats it. high quality I/H/E and tuning with a mild shave and your set.
The F20C ( s2k ) is nothing like the F20b ( Euro R ). They have different blocks and different head desighns altogether.
Secondly, For you purpous, i would buy the H22 over the F20B. Not only will you get more TQ with the H powerplant, but you can also take the F20Bs intake manifold and strike it on the H block for better flow. At that point, all you'll need is this:
To keep it simple and NA it will take the following
Dave's port match work ( take the TB and IM to him and he will bore it all out to max spec with tapper. for 160 he'll port match to IM and do the TB
www.maxbore.com
0.030 off the head ( better take it to a machine shop for this ) 100$
Crower cams street setup 350-529.99
Euro R intake manifold 229.99-289.99
RMF header ( heat wrapped or not....its up to you ) 900 or less
17 inch test pipe with 1 o2 bung and a 2.5 inch flange 70 or less
2.5 inch exhaust all they way back 300
BB6 JDM airbox or CAI of your choice ( i would say ITBS but for cost's sake ) 189.99
Fujita or aem filter 40 if your using a cai/sri
Hondata S200 199.99 or lower
200$ dyno time
launch control ( for draging ) 89.99-220.99
Thats it. high quality I/H/E and tuning with a mild shave and your set.
#39
the F20b manifold will not bolt up to an F block without some modification to the ports and some modification to the fuel rail ( youd have to use an f22b/h22 jdm fuel rail, and you'll have to modify your coolant pipe. ( id use the A1 pipe
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#40
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basically the same mods it would take to make an h IM fit an f block? I dont really guess itd be worth it right now, especially since i dont have exhaust...
thanks man
thanks man
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