Engine Swap
Originally Posted by 972xghost
i see exactley where this thread is going.
we all have a million opionions on something thats not gonna happen.
no offense to you Hersh, but we see a thread like this every other week, and nothing happens.
(but all you guys spitting these crazy setups dont realize, most people on this website dont have time or money for these builds)
thats why i think a straight up H22 swap is the most logical and economical way to gain 50 horses in your CL.
we all have a million opionions on something thats not gonna happen.
no offense to you Hersh, but we see a thread like this every other week, and nothing happens.
(but all you guys spitting these crazy setups dont realize, most people on this website dont have time or money for these builds)
thats why i think a straight up H22 swap is the most logical and economical way to gain 50 horses in your CL.
thats what i said from the very beginning. 2500$ and you're done. no building ur block, swapping the head, piecing a turbo kit.
Originally Posted by davzilla
Fine, no turbo. I'd still go F series. It doesn't take much to make up the 50hp difference and i'd still have more torque. :p
Werd, heavy ass car + H22 torqueless wonder FTL.
I know lots of you have H22's and are "happy" but have you every really played with an F?
i built an F22A1 with not alot in it and went from 125hp and 127ft-lbs at the crank to this:

That was completly untuned, stock ecu and no fuel. I did a B&M FPR and Apex'i SAFC2, woke it right up. Properly tuned i would have picked up another 25whp and 25ft-lbs over what's above. Which puts it right up there with an h22a, but more torque and the same redline.
I know lots of you have H22's and are "happy" but have you every really played with an F?
i built an F22A1 with not alot in it and went from 125hp and 127ft-lbs at the crank to this:

That was completly untuned, stock ecu and no fuel. I did a B&M FPR and Apex'i SAFC2, woke it right up. Properly tuned i would have picked up another 25whp and 25ft-lbs over what's above. Which puts it right up there with an h22a, but more torque and the same redline.
i used to be gung ho "save the sohc". but unless i go turbo they were worthless in my eyes.
the only F series i have respect for is the F22A6. the F22B1 is an absolute dog.
the only F series i have respect for is the F22A6. the F22B1 is an absolute dog.
i love the thread on CB7tuner where the kid from south jersey made 30hp for under 500 with all OEM parts. that impressed me. the older F-series are defenitly better than the new ones.
Originally Posted by davzilla
Werd, heavy ass car + H22 torqueless wonder FTL.
I know lots of you have H22's and are "happy" but have you every really played with an F?
i built an F22A1 with not alot in it and went from 125hp and 127ft-lbs at the crank to this:
That was completly untuned, stock ecu and no fuel. I did a B&M FPR and Apex'i SAFC2, woke it right up. Properly tuned i would have picked up another 25whp and 25ft-lbs over what's above. Which puts it right up there with an h22a, but more torque and the same redline.
I know lots of you have H22's and are "happy" but have you every really played with an F?
i built an F22A1 with not alot in it and went from 125hp and 127ft-lbs at the crank to this:
That was completly untuned, stock ecu and no fuel. I did a B&M FPR and Apex'i SAFC2, woke it right up. Properly tuned i would have picked up another 25whp and 25ft-lbs over what's above. Which puts it right up there with an h22a, but more torque and the same redline.
yea thats good maybe to keep up with a bone stock H22.
but i dont see your logic in saying H22's are torqueless. thats a bold statement.
its on like a B16 or a B18C1 only making like 130lb-ft. like i said a JDM H22A makes 161lb-ft??
but i dont see your logic in saying H22's are torqueless. thats a bold statement.
its on like a B16 or a B18C1 only making like 130lb-ft. like i said a JDM H22A makes 161lb-ft??
Originally Posted by AznX TL
what were the mods on it?
3" intake piping from TB to OEM airbox with K&N panel filter
Ractive header
Apex'i WS Catback
Ross Racing Cam
AEM Cam Gear (never played with the cam timing either)
383 SBC Valve Springs
Weapon R Throttle Rotor
B&M Adjustable FPR and Gauge
Ractive A/F Gauge
Apex'i SAFC2
Full rebuild, OEM honda gaskets everywhere
Freshened up piston walls, reringed pistons with Total Power Rings(i think?).
New OEM honda rod and crank bearings
Removed balance shaft belt
Poly Front mount insert
Centreforce Dual Friction Clutch
97 EX-R 5spd Transmission, tallest gears evar.
After playing with the FP and the SAFC2 it screamed all the way to redline. I still have the thing sitting in my driveway, I'm hoping this F makes it into an EK hatch one day. With or without out the turbo.
Originally Posted by 972xghost
yea thats good maybe to keep up with a bone stock H22.
but i dont see your logic in saying H22's are torqueless. thats a bold statement.
its on like a B16 or a B18C1 only making like 130lb-ft. like i said a JDM H22A makes 161lb-ft??
but i dont see your logic in saying H22's are torqueless. thats a bold statement.
its on like a B16 or a B18C1 only making like 130lb-ft. like i said a JDM H22A makes 161lb-ft??
I'm already at 133ft-lbs untuned. If i make 155whp i'll be making 160ft-lbs.
there's a "Project Low Key" going on in Modified Mag, It's got AEM intake,Skunk2 Pro1 cams, Vibrant Header, high flow cat, Tanabe exhaust, Unorthodox pulleys and a Hondata S300 Ecu. Dynoed tuned it made 191.44whp@7342rpm and 152.9ft-lbs@5250rpm.
they blew the motor at the track road racing, it's now getting a full rebuild
Originally Posted by AznX TL
you call that not alot in it?! 

all the rest of the stuff is because i got the motor for a hundred bucks and i got it off a guy who got it off another guy, i had no idea what shape it was in.
I got some stuff used or had it lying around and didn't pay retail for the new parts, plus i did all the work myself.
that most list reminded me i need a 3" prelude intake now.
thats a nice mod list, and i wanted to things along those lines. but a F22B1 isnt worth it.
F22a's yea. they respond well to mods.
thats a nice mod list, and i wanted to things along those lines. but a F22B1 isnt worth it.
F22a's yea. they respond well to mods.
Originally Posted by davzilla
No, you make 200hp@6800rpm/161ft-lbs@5500 at the crank which works out to about 155-160whp & 135-140ft-lbs.
I'm already at 133ft-lbs untuned. If i make 155whp i'll be making 160ft-lbs.
there's a "Project Low Key" going on in Modified Mag, It's got AEM intake,Skunk2 Pro1 cams, Vibrant Header, high flow cat, Tanabe exhaust, Unorthodox pulleys and a Hondata S300 Ecu. Dynoed tuned it made 191.44whp@7342rpm and 152.9ft-lbs@5250rpm.
they blew the motor at the track road racing, it's now getting a full rebuild
I'm already at 133ft-lbs untuned. If i make 155whp i'll be making 160ft-lbs.
there's a "Project Low Key" going on in Modified Mag, It's got AEM intake,Skunk2 Pro1 cams, Vibrant Header, high flow cat, Tanabe exhaust, Unorthodox pulleys and a Hondata S300 Ecu. Dynoed tuned it made 191.44whp@7342rpm and 152.9ft-lbs@5250rpm.
they blew the motor at the track road racing, it's now getting a full rebuild

they're doing a Modified/Superstreet/SCC/Turbo/Importtuner/eurotuner/lowrider mag shoot out. Castrol Top Shop Challenge. the only honda motor in the whole contest is an F22A 
the Shops are:
eurotuner: Audi 7A Quattro I5 - 034 Motorsport
import tuner: Nissan SR20DET I4 - G Demensions
lowrider: ZZ427 V8 - Ace Machine
SCC: Nissan VQ35DE V6 - Cosworth
Super Street: Honda F22 non-Vtec I4 - Bisimoto
Turbo: Toyota 2JZ-GTE I6 - SP Engineering
Modified: Mistubishi 4G63 - AMS

the Shops are:
eurotuner: Audi 7A Quattro I5 - 034 Motorsport
import tuner: Nissan SR20DET I4 - G Demensions
lowrider: ZZ427 V8 - Ace Machine
SCC: Nissan VQ35DE V6 - Cosworth
Super Street: Honda F22 non-Vtec I4 - Bisimoto
Turbo: Toyota 2JZ-GTE I6 - SP Engineering
Modified: Mistubishi 4G63 - AMS
Originally Posted by davzilla
The only reason i built the F22A1 is because i was changing all the stuff that makes it an A6 anyways. And i got the motor for a hundred bucks.
Originally Posted by davzilla
they're doing a Modified/Superstreet/SCC/Turbo/Importtuner/eurotuner/lowrider mag shoot out. Castrol Top Shop Challenge. the only honda motor in the whole contest is an F22A 
the Shops are:
eurotuner: Audi 7A Quattro I5 - 034 Motorsport
import tuner: Nissan SR20DET I4 - G Demensions
lowrider: ZZ427 V8 - Ace Machine
SCC: Nissan VQ35DE V6 - Cosworth
Super Street: Honda F22 non-Vtec I4 - Bisimoto
Turbo: Toyota 2JZ-GTE I6 - SP Engineering
Modified: Mistubishi 4G63 - AMS

the Shops are:
eurotuner: Audi 7A Quattro I5 - 034 Motorsport
import tuner: Nissan SR20DET I4 - G Demensions
lowrider: ZZ427 V8 - Ace Machine
SCC: Nissan VQ35DE V6 - Cosworth
Super Street: Honda F22 non-Vtec I4 - Bisimoto
Turbo: Toyota 2JZ-GTE I6 - SP Engineering
Modified: Mistubishi 4G63 - AMS
Originally Posted by SupraManAG
Ok. I can see this is turning out to be a bash so here i go. I own an H22since 03. I can stand for them because I've had one for long enough. Its a very fun yet very costly engine. You cannot compare a F22 to an H22 because an F is simply shit. Yes if you boost an F you will make more power but then again if you boost an H you will get a lot more power. The only diff between the F and H is two diff heads which plays a huge role next to bore on both blocks. Let me clear something up. Yes you can boost an F but good luck finding the parts to beef up your block. H on the other hand they make sleeves, pistons, rods, stroker kits and etc. I do worth the H is a bang for its buck because the day i got it the first thing I said is holy shit. Also 3k car isn't heavy. Its faily light compared to whats out there. A CRX isn't considered a car but a go cart.
Originally Posted by davzilla
H23A Intake manifold (bigger plenum)
3" intake piping from TB to OEM airbox with K&N panel filter
Ractive header
Apex'i WS Catback
Ross Racing Cam
AEM Cam Gear (never played with the cam timing either)
383 SBC Valve Springs
Weapon R Throttle Rotor
B&M Adjustable FPR and Gauge
Ractive A/F Gauge
Apex'i SAFC2
Full rebuild, OEM honda gaskets everywhere
Freshened up piston walls, reringed pistons with Total Power Rings(i think?).
New OEM honda rod and crank bearings
Removed balance shaft belt
Poly Front mount insert
Centreforce Dual Friction Clutch
97 EX-R 5spd Transmission, tallest gears evar.
After playing with the FP and the SAFC2 it screamed all the way to redline. I still have the thing sitting in my driveway, I'm hoping this F makes it into an EK hatch one day. With or without out the turbo.
3" intake piping from TB to OEM airbox with K&N panel filter
Ractive header
Apex'i WS Catback
Ross Racing Cam
AEM Cam Gear (never played with the cam timing either)
383 SBC Valve Springs
Weapon R Throttle Rotor
B&M Adjustable FPR and Gauge
Ractive A/F Gauge
Apex'i SAFC2
Full rebuild, OEM honda gaskets everywhere
Freshened up piston walls, reringed pistons with Total Power Rings(i think?).
New OEM honda rod and crank bearings
Removed balance shaft belt
Poly Front mount insert
Centreforce Dual Friction Clutch
97 EX-R 5spd Transmission, tallest gears evar.
After playing with the FP and the SAFC2 it screamed all the way to redline. I still have the thing sitting in my driveway, I'm hoping this F makes it into an EK hatch one day. With or without out the turbo.

Ill be getting my car on the dyno in a month or so. Then Ill give you the numbers and what I have exactly under the hood.
Originally Posted by SupraManAG
Ok. I can see this is turning out to be a bash so here i go. I own an H22since 03. I can stand for them because I've had one for long enough. Its a very fun yet very costly engine. You cannot compare a F22 to an H22 because an F is simply shit. Yes if you boost an F you will make more power but then again if you boost an H you will get a lot more power. The only diff between the F and H is two diff heads which plays a huge role next to bore on both blocks. Let me clear something up. Yes you can boost an F but good luck finding the parts to beef up your block. H on the other hand they make sleeves, pistons, rods, stroker kits and etc. I do worth the H is a bang for its buck because the day i got it the first thing I said is holy shit. Also 3k car isn't heavy. Its faily light compared to whats out there. A CRX isn't considered a car but a go cart.
I can keep going but i'm sure you can see my point by now. What makes more sence spending a hundred bucks and tossing everything in the motor for a turbo build or spending 1500 and doing the same? And then factor in that the fancy motor will potentially be more problematic than the, as you put it shit motor.
Originally Posted by SupraManAG
When it does we call it a friendly race
Ill be getting my car on the dyno in a month or so. Then Ill give you the numbers and what I have exactly under the hood.
Ill be getting my car on the dyno in a month or so. Then Ill give you the numbers and what I have exactly under the hood.
Originally Posted by davzilla
So if the only difference between H and F is the heads then why would i have trouble finding parts to beef up the block? I mean besides the fact that the walls of the F22 are plenty thick enough to bore out to accept H22 sleeves and at the same time adding another 100cc displacement. If you don't want to go that far there are still plenty of F22 internals if you know where to look. You are right about the H22 being fun but very costly. Which kinda makes me wonder why you would want to complicate a complicated engine with boost. I don't mean to shit in your cereal but imho VTEC is great for N/A, giving you great performance and modest gas consumption, but after you boost all that neat tech becomes a potential source of problems. Yes the K series loves boost but it's a whole nother animal from the H or F. In the long run a F22 is cheaper to build and boost than an H22 and quite frankly gives you better numbers on the dyno. I don't know where you're from but making more torque than HP is always more impressive than 300whp@9000rpm and 199ft-lbs.
I can keep going but i'm sure you can see my point by now. What makes more sence spending a hundred bucks and tossing everything in the motor for a turbo build or spending 1500 and doing the same? And then factor in that the fancy motor will potentially be more problematic than the, as you put it shit motor.
lol, the f22a won't be back on the road till it's found it's way into an EK hatch. I have much more dastardly plans for the CB7 chassis.
I can keep going but i'm sure you can see my point by now. What makes more sence spending a hundred bucks and tossing everything in the motor for a turbo build or spending 1500 and doing the same? And then factor in that the fancy motor will potentially be more problematic than the, as you put it shit motor.
lol, the f22a won't be back on the road till it's found it's way into an EK hatch. I have much more dastardly plans for the CB7 chassis.
Originally Posted by SupraManAG
Tell you what. If you plan on finishing your project in the next two years Ill def have mine finished. We'll compare the two. By the way people do put DOHC in their teggys or bubbles not SOHC because air intake in the key. If you payed attention next to the two heads i did mention the cylinder bore which also distinguishes the two motors.
Yeah i suppose i could get something together in 2yrs, but like i said the F22 will be in an EK so i'll understand if you just wanna compare dyno sheets.
An integra weighs 500lbs less than the CL, and bubble is 900lbs lighter. Thanks for telling me random shit.
I said boring out the F22 an extra 2mm is no big deal when doing a build. I was paying attention.
Originally Posted by starboy2nv
the shop im getting my work done and another shop...
things that fit nicely > things you have to make fit. Sure it'll work, but other things work better.
Originally Posted by 972xghost
if you wanna put an F22 in a civic. why not an EG bubble. even lighter than an EK hatch.





