what's the deal here? Cross-drilled rotors break easier? Dimple drilled don't dissipate heat as well? What's better? I wanna get some drilled/slotted rotors soon and just wanna figure out what's best. I'm guessing cross-drilled is better but then again i don't know shit anyone who does know shit please help out, thanks

I dont understand people who want these things......unless you are running the bloody hell out of your car and braking really *REALLY* late into corners you really dont need these, just some good pads on your stock rotors......

unless you just want it to look cool, then i guess it'll work

i just think they look cool. so i guess i should go with whatever is cheaper

I think the point of the cross drilled is to get rid of any pressure between the disc and the pad. I would think the dimples would do the same thing maybe just not as well? Anybody else know?

The point of x-drilled and slotted rotores is to reduce heat in braking... If you ever had your brakes fail because they were too hot.. thats why... Also acura rotors are prone to worping.. if you
x-drill a stoock rotor, it strengthens... The also look better than stock... There are various reasons to get them... I have x-drilled and slotted fronts and x-drilled backs... braided brake lines and have great stopping ability... and they are not easy to break... why they say some x-drilled rotors "crack" is the racing rotors are thin and when they get wet and heat the "crack".. thats all!

djz, I do not at all agree with you. I have owned two Honda products (1994 Prelude VTEC, 1998 3.0 CL) and I have had problems with warped front rotors on both. I do enjoy somewhat aggressive driving but I certainly do not run the "bloody hell" out of the car. On the Prelude I replaced the factory rotors with cross drilled Brembo rotors and never had another problem even though they ended up with more miles on them the original rotors. I could not find cross drilled Brembo rotors for the CL so I simply replaced the original factory rotors with another set of factory rotors. They again need to be replaced. In both cases I tried machining the rotors but this only briefly solved the problem.

Most of my driving is done with a car pool on a 52 mile commute to work. About 40 miles is Interstate Highway with a 70 mph limit. Although I always take about 10 on top of the speed limit I cannot see how this is unduly hard on the brakes. Very heavy traffic at times may excessively wear the pads but should not overheat the rotors. The remaining 12 miles are two lane backroads. Again, high speeds are reached but excess rotor heating just does not seem reasonable. I also have made this trip in an M3, 300zx Turbo, RX7, and a 280zx. I never had the problem with warpped rotors before the Honda products.

I think comptech has a brembo kit for the 3.0 CL if that is what you were looking for before

I know the best guiy to have, make or customize rotors to be X-drilled and/or slotted from aftermarket to stock rotors! He is affordeable and trustworthy.... Email me at gcalisi@codykramer.com for more info! Holla!

i agree with djz that all you need are stock rotors with better semi-metallic pads

i looked at the nsx forum and found that most people that RACE nsx's use regular solid rotors and high performance pads because they say cross-drilled crack under THESE driving conditions

if you auto-x or for some reason you race your CL get solid rotors and get high-performance pads

if you want a little show and go get whatever you want it doesn't matter x-drilled or slotted or both

OK comptech is one brand and brembo is another so obviously comptech can not make anything to do with brembo.

By the way I also have cross drilled and slotted front and back brembo rotors on my 2.3 and I love them. They are 100% better than the stocks. You can really notice a difference in stopping power on long drives when the stock rotors would heat up and you would lose stopping power. Not only do they look great they also perform without a doubt.

And for the people that say that they are not needed not even on high performance machines like an NSX than why would these brake rotors come standard on every Porsche? I'm pretty sure the engineers know what they are doing over at Porsche.

thanks for the feedback! I think i'm going to get cross-drilled or drilled/slotted. Anyone know where i can get really good prices? groupbuycenter.com? thanks

i'm just re-typing what the people said that actually race nsx's from THEIR forum

email me at gcalisi@codykramer.com....

Got mine on ebay for $240 shipped.

What makes you think the engineers made this decision?
The cross-drilled Porsche brakes are 100% pure marketing BS. Notice how they're conveniently absent from their race cars.

Anyone that has aftermarket rotors or wants them would do themselves good to study the following links. They're written by an actual brake engineer/racer.

Or if ADD prevents anyone from reading anything longer than my post, I'll summerize it like this: BETTER OFF STOCK.

http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm

So the people at Ferrari are wrong too? Why would cross drilled brakes help marketing a Porsche? If you want a 911 you get one wether or not it comes with cross drilled brakes. The fact that they do come with these brake rotors is beacuse they do make a difference.

And what makes you think that the engineers didn't put them in?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by BLACKOUTCL
[B]

i agree with djz that all you need are stock rotors with better semi-metallic pads

BLACKOUTCL,

Your missing the jest of some of our arguments here, you're probably right if we use a semi-metallic pad on stock rotors it'll probably improve proformance, the point we're making is the stock rotors warp under non-racing and normal driving conditions. And it's bugging the hell out of me so that's why we change to aftermarket.

believe me I know that crap acura stock rotors warp
I meant to say
most people use bradi or brembo SOLID disc like stock
with better pads
I type to fast to catch everything

you guys are all freaking out about this! You really dont NEED to have cross drilled or slotted rotors.

The idea of the slots are to evacuate the gasses that build up between the rotor & the pads during extreme braking and cause for the pad to lose contact with the rotor.

The idea of the cross drilling is to dissapate heat from brakes that are over 800 degrees or so (hotter than your oven can even imagine).

I can gurantee that NONE of you will be driving as hard or as fast as a porche or ferarri! those vehicles just plain out class ours. They have more power, more agility, better engenering & are DESIGNED to be driven with their balls to the walls!

Our vehicles were designed to be more of a sport luxury car, not a supercar that needs slotted & cross drilled brakes to quickly brake from 140+mph to 30mph to take a hairpin corner on a track.

If you want to spend your money on that, then so be it, I would much rather spend my money on other things. You can get away with using very good semi-metallic pads for hard braking.

When I had my 300ZX I had to replace all 4 rotors on the car because they were just plain worn out (too thin to get turned). I went out and actually bought some Brembo rotors that were NOT crossdrilled or slotted. They worked just as good as the stock rotors, but I purchased them over the stock ones because they were CHEAPER! I looked into getting some cross drilled ones, but was told by 4 different people in the braking business that they were not needed for any sort of street application.

You say you've cracked your rotors? Here's an idea.......brake earlier!! You dont have to run into corners super deep every single time you take one! The roads out there are not race tracks. There is always a time and place to run wide open, but you dont have to run it like that 24/7, thats why cars get worn out and dont run right.

I have also been told by a few people that its very difficult to get crossdrilled rotors turned when you need to do a brake job. This may have changed in the recent times, but i have not heard anything different.

Good luck either way.

If you don't drive hard enough to get your stock rotors glowing red and smoking then you don't need to get slotted or x drilled rotors. But I have warmed up my stock rotors so much, several times from street racing that they light up red at night and smoke. When this happens you can actually feel the loss in breaking power drastically. Since I've gotten my x drilled and slotted brembos this has not happened a single time. Without a single doubt they do make a difference.
If you don't think they are needed is probably because you don't push your car hard or take it to its limits.

thats PROBABLY why my car rides like its brand new.

And thats probably why my car will blow the doors off of yours any day:P .

You should just cut a hole in the floor and go flinstone style!!!

Anyway, If it is that big of a deal why don't you just get better callipers. They are more expensive but if you are pushing your car to the limits maybe it would be a good idea.

I am going to have to go ith DC on this. I havealso experienced the loss in breaking power due to them heating up and soking or glowing. The breaks do start to lose a shit load of power under these conditions. You can feel it drastically. Oh and DC's car wold "blow the dorrs off of your's. B

Not saying Ferrari is "wrong". I'm saying they do it for the image, not engineering principles. What's right or wrong in the auto world is very vague.
I'm not a marketer. But when people see fancy cross-drilling, they say "Ooh, racey!". It's the IMAGE of performance vs actual performance. Show me any racecar (Rally, Touring, INDY, NASCAR) that uses cross-drilled rotors.

Why do I think that engineers don't put cross-drilled rotors on Porsches? Well, generally engineers don't give a damn about marketing gimmicks. They care about performance.

In the name of the flame...I'm gonna go out on a ledge and say that cross-drilled rotors are RICEY. They give the LOOK of added performance while actually detracting from it.

Don't believe me? Get it from the horses mouth:
http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm