diagnosing transmission (electrical)
#1
diagnosing transmission (electrical)
i need some help, anybody with electrical experience please help me out.
1998 3.0CL 207k miles
Ok, my Transmission D4 light is blinking one time quickly, so i went though the trouble shooting flowchart in my service manual.
one of the tests looks for continuity between two wires on the PCM connectors (one is a ground) (there is supposed to be no continuity). I checked with a voltmeter, and i am showing about 30-40ohms of resistance between the two wires. I am not too experienced with wiring, but i assume that this means that there is some kind of short, but a short that has resistance.
I thought that a short was supposed to have no resistance.
My shift control solenoid A is also bad. Could this short have caused my solenoid to go bad/burn up? I would like to know before i go and burn up a brand new $200 solenoid
Also, any tips on how to track down a short?, I've never had to look for a short in such a complex cramped area.
1998 3.0CL 207k miles
Ok, my Transmission D4 light is blinking one time quickly, so i went though the trouble shooting flowchart in my service manual.
one of the tests looks for continuity between two wires on the PCM connectors (one is a ground) (there is supposed to be no continuity). I checked with a voltmeter, and i am showing about 30-40ohms of resistance between the two wires. I am not too experienced with wiring, but i assume that this means that there is some kind of short, but a short that has resistance.
I thought that a short was supposed to have no resistance.
My shift control solenoid A is also bad. Could this short have caused my solenoid to go bad/burn up? I would like to know before i go and burn up a brand new $200 solenoid
Also, any tips on how to track down a short?, I've never had to look for a short in such a complex cramped area.
#2
10th Gear
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Carolina
Age: 43
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help us follow along with our books. What test are you performing, or which two pins are you measuring 30-40 ohms through? I'd like to read exactly what the book says.
30-40 ohms is not equal to an open circuit, something is connected somewhere. Normal? I don't know, I'd have to look at the book.
How do you know your solenoid A is bad? Which test confirmed this?
30-40 ohms is not equal to an open circuit, something is connected somewhere. Normal? I don't know, I'd have to look at the book.
How do you know your solenoid A is bad? Which test confirmed this?
#3
ok ill start form the top, after using the service check connector, i read code P1753, i ran down the flow chart untill this step:
"Disconnect 3p connector from the lock-up control solenoid valve.
Check for continuity between the D1 and B20 or B22 terminals (PCM connectors).
Is there continuity?
YES = repair short to ground in the wire between the D1 terminal and the lock up control solenoid valve
NO =(next step) measure lock up control solenoid valve resistance at the solenoid connector."
the B20 and B22 terminals are ground wires.
The D1 terminal is a wire that goes directly to the lock-up control solenoid valve (well the connector to the solenoid valve[3P]).
I know that the solenoid is bad because it is showing absolutely no resistance when i tested it directly.
another note, the resistance isn't 30 ohms, it is 30k ohms, (misread the scale)
If i didn't want to track down the problem, would it be acceptable to just run a brand new wire from the solenoid connector straight to the pcu connector, and leave the old wire disconnected?
"Disconnect 3p connector from the lock-up control solenoid valve.
Check for continuity between the D1 and B20 or B22 terminals (PCM connectors).
Is there continuity?
YES = repair short to ground in the wire between the D1 terminal and the lock up control solenoid valve
NO =(next step) measure lock up control solenoid valve resistance at the solenoid connector."
the B20 and B22 terminals are ground wires.
The D1 terminal is a wire that goes directly to the lock-up control solenoid valve (well the connector to the solenoid valve[3P]).
I know that the solenoid is bad because it is showing absolutely no resistance when i tested it directly.
another note, the resistance isn't 30 ohms, it is 30k ohms, (misread the scale)
If i didn't want to track down the problem, would it be acceptable to just run a brand new wire from the solenoid connector straight to the pcu connector, and leave the old wire disconnected?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
detailersdomain
Wash & Wax
3
10-09-2015 10:13 PM
joflewbyu2
5G TLX (2015-2020)
139
10-08-2015 11:16 AM