Cross drilled and slotted rotors off ebay?
#1
Cross drilled and slotted rotors off ebay?
I'm looking to change the brakes throughout the car and i see decent prices cross drilled slotted rotors on ebay.Who has boughten them and what did you buy?Quality?Reccomended seller perhaps??Thank you
#2
Three Wheelin'
How much are you looking to spend? There might be some good online vendors with competitive prices.
Are you buying the cross drilled rotors for looks for performance? Slotted would be a better choice if you're sticking with the original rotor diameter.
Are you buying the cross drilled rotors for looks for performance? Slotted would be a better choice if you're sticking with the original rotor diameter.
#3
Well it would be for looks and of course performance.I see that they make a combonation of drill and slot on the same rotor.Regardless i'll be looking for options and i'm willing to drop around 400 max although the cheaper the better.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Just look for a ebay seller with a high rating and look for a rotor brand with a good reputation (Brembo, Power Slot, StopTech etc...).
You definitely don't want drilled and slotted together on the same rotor. You're losing surface area with that design which decreases stopping power.
Also, do you have a 4 or 6 cylinder CL?
You definitely don't want drilled and slotted together on the same rotor. You're losing surface area with that design which decreases stopping power.
Also, do you have a 4 or 6 cylinder CL?
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#8
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Drilled and slotted together make the rotors warp faster for sure, i"m on my 3rd set, I'd say go either slotted, or drilled only. I'm going x-drilled only on my next set of rotors
#9
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I'v had brembo blanks on my cl... I do not recommand them. They're good... but not much different from the regular discs u can buy, and they cost a billion times more!
I would go with regular decent quality blanks, and change the disc as soon as it warps/ is a bit rusted, or if you've got a 97 CL.. look for a disc over hub conversion :P.
The difference between drilled and slotted is this:
Drilled: Helps the aeration of the disc and exit holes for fumes and such. Rusts from the holes..
Slotted (the better option): Shaves the pad so it stays true to the disc, this make the braking more efficient in the long run. But it rusts from the slots and reduces the pad's life.
I would go with regular decent quality blanks, and change the disc as soon as it warps/ is a bit rusted, or if you've got a 97 CL.. look for a disc over hub conversion :P.
The difference between drilled and slotted is this:
Drilled: Helps the aeration of the disc and exit holes for fumes and such. Rusts from the holes..
Slotted (the better option): Shaves the pad so it stays true to the disc, this make the braking more efficient in the long run. But it rusts from the slots and reduces the pad's life.
#10
Low and Slow
Check out the black market sponsored/group buy forum. I got a front set of dimpled/slotted rotors and pads for about half of what you're wanting to spend.
#11
Senior Moderator
Same here, and dimpled/slotted won't warp like cross drilled, I put mine through the paces and they've held up fine.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Rotors don't "warp" like everyone seems to believe. You never hear about track cars warping their rotors and they see more abuse than any street car. The vibration you get in the steering while applying the brakes is caused by sudden, hard braking and allowing the car to come to a complete stop. You're allowing the hot brake pads to transfer its material onto the rotor. People do this all the time when slamming on their brakes at a red light.
Having the rotors "turned down" is shaving the pad material from the surface.
StopTech has a great article on this topic. I posted it before but apparently no one read it. Type "warped rotor myths" into google and it should be the first link that comes up.
Having the rotors "turned down" is shaving the pad material from the surface.
StopTech has a great article on this topic. I posted it before but apparently no one read it. Type "warped rotor myths" into google and it should be the first link that comes up.
#13
Senior Moderator
Rotors don't "warp" like everyone seems to believe. You never hear about track cars warping their rotors and they see more abuse than any street car. The vibration you get in the steering while applying the brakes is caused by sudden, hard braking and allowing the car to come to a complete stop. You're allowing the hot brake pads to transfer its material onto the rotor. People do this all the time when slamming on their brakes at a red light.
Having the rotors "turned down" is shaving the pad material from the surface.
StopTech has a great article on this topic. I posted it before but apparently no one read it. Type "warped rotor myths" into google and it should be the first link that comes up.
Having the rotors "turned down" is shaving the pad material from the surface.
StopTech has a great article on this topic. I posted it before but apparently no one read it. Type "warped rotor myths" into google and it should be the first link that comes up.
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