Well, after some research, im going to so some simple mods to help maintain and keep my intake system clean. First, ill do a DIY on the catch can ill be installing to prevent any oil from entering the intake manny. Second, a breather valve ( i know its ricey but you know what.......it works. It keeps oil from seeding into the hose connected to your cai/sri. ( trust me, take your tube off and you'll notice oil deposites on both side no matter how well your car is maintained. Third DIY is a EGR block off plate install ( not neccesary and i know it may make intake temps rise but i dont want recycled gases running into my fresh intake mani either. You wont throw a cel code either ( ill let you know how this turns out )

 

tuner man , you should be on the cover of a magazine.

 

so ,breather valve good?

 

jewmanji

 

I tried blocking off my EGR valve way after it and it still threw a code, good luck.

 

is it a 3.0 or 2.2 ? it will throw a code if its not seal completely. You want to trick it into thinking its hitting a wall to simulate gas flow to the IM. See, after a while, your egr might be stuck wide open, spilling gasses all the time into your IM or stuck shut, which in tern, acts as a block. The whole purpous is to prevent recycled gases from contaminating your IM. your IM temp is around 300 F with these recycled gasses because chemistry proves that these already burnt and used gasses cool the air. With the blocking of the EGR, your increasing tempature, but elimating contamination. The HP and TQ gains/loss are almost non existant. Its more of a preventive/ engine health measure, just like the catch can that prevents hot oil from entering you IM. When i take mine apart, ill determine if its shut or open. You dont want it stuck open all the time because its only supposed recycle the gases into you IM at cruising speeds to save on gas and increase fuel economy and emissions. If its stuck open all the time your doing more harm that good.

 

breather is very good. cap off fitting on your intake were the hose flows to your valve cover. Then buy a breather and extend it 3 inches with some tubing so that it clears the valve cover ( otherwise it wont fit ) and then, enjoy, youve just prevented oil from entering your intake charge and gumming up your TB ill post a DIY

 

chewbaka_t

 

yea let me know how that works, i want to get a PCV filter too.

 

lmao......do you even know what the EGR valve even does? dont block it...

RESEARCH...i've explained what it does....i'm not about to write another essay.

 

Here, I'll make it simple.


The recycled air your talking about is non combustable lowering engine temp and keeping your engine nice and sweet. This is run off vacuum pressure therefore is not on when at WOT. Also, this helps make the engine last longer.

Here is some simple math (Not Accurate, just some numbers I pulled out my ass)
30% non combustable air flows into the cylinders at 40% throttle engine temp is kept at 500 degrees

Now, block or take the EGR valve out and the numbers are as follow:
100% combustable air flows into cylinders at 40% throttle and engine temp is now 700 degrees

Now, why bother running hotter when daily driving? You wont gain anything, and it doesnt affect you when you "racing" .......so just keep it ON! But if you wanna mess around with it, and learn about it yourself, go for it.....

 

then 7min later... lol we love you chris

 

belive me i know all about the egr mang, ive done my research as well. As posted above I know temps will rise foo, i just dont like the idea of reused exhuast gases re entering my Intake manifold. I dont have to block it off but i have to because... its going to interfear with the H23 manifold i plan on installing There some fuel modifications to it, but there easy and the gains are worth it. Did i mention its got dual runners too !!!

 

 

just leave it as it is...nothing wrong with it. acura engineers made the egr vavle for a reason and put it in its place for a reason....

i heard Shell V-power cleans your intake and other systems while you drive...try it...wont hurt right?

 

some pics of the dual runner manifold installed into an 5th gen accord EX ( H23 manifold
Heres the DIY BTW ill do the CL diy as soon as my shits in.

Well this thread as stated is about putting a H23 dual runner intake on to a F22B1 (vtec) head. It would probably go on to a non vtec head substantially easier.

I am also going to assume that you can get your original mani off your self; I will offer these few tips,
Unbolt bottom nuts from under the car.
When removing the mani lightly tap it with a block of wood and a hammer to break it loose.

picture of original off (we all know what the stockie looks like…..)

first off leave the vtec solenoid on the head, also remember to clean the mating surfaces on all parts before assembly.

Now slide the mani on, you will notice that the passenger side top portion of the mani comes into contact with the vtec solenoid. Take note of how much material you should take off, then take it to a grinder, saw, dremel, or what ever method you chose I used a saw and dremel.

in that picture you can see where I started to remove material, much more than pictured will have to be removed.

After I got the mani bolted up I decided to make a block off plate for the EGR valve because it would interfere with the fuel rail.


you can see the block off plate in the bottom of that photo, also notice that the injectors are in; this is where I started to plan out the fuel system modifications.

The fuel system had to major mods for this mani to work:

First of all the fuel line had to be extended to reach the other side of the mani, with no sharp bends or contacting any sharp objects, I used 3 feet of fuel injection hose from AutoZone and cut off the hose ends off of the old hose.

notice the fuel line on the bottom right

secondly the fuel system had to be modded in such a way that my f22 fuel rail would bolt up to the h23 studs also had to be done backwards. Well the studs on the h23 mani are spaced 4.5 inches apart, where as the f22 studs are spaced 3 inches apart, so set up the new holes, marked, punched, then drilled. Then it was time to blow it out (don’t want any shavings in the fuel system, then test fit.

SUCSESS well kind of….

The studs in the mani were to long….? I was surprised and the studs on the f22 man were the wrong threads 12mm compared to 10mm, so I made some 3 inch studs out of some old bolts then cut to fit with dremel as I went. Also the fuel reg interfered with the driver side stud so it had to be trimmed. So now the fuel system is complete.

Now comes the cooling system:
I used the f22 hard pipe with the f23 thermostat housing, because the f22 housing has to mate with the head (water flows through it).

Well to make the thermostat fit you have to cut off one of its legs. Pic:

now here comes the trust part….bolt the housing on to the mani, only one bolt will line up, if you’re good you can get two, with a lot more cutting/grinding. I went the one bolt method, no leaks yet, I will keep yall posted on that part.

The rest of the installation is cake, just like a normal intake installation, goes by the book here is a final pic of the two major modifications after installation:

 

would the catch can defeat the purpose of the breather filter and vice versa?? and would a H22 manifold work instead of an H23? and if you want another cool intake trick take a look at this.
http://hondata.com/heatshieldgasket.html
(sorry i couldnt insert a link my comp is being gay and wont let me)

 

arite i guess it worked

 

no, the catch can just prevents oil from entering your intake manifold. The breather makes sure your intake itself isnt going to get gummed up.

 

ooo arite i thought u could use the catch can instead of a PCV filter.

 

so alex, according to your Sig, it says you sposed to be boosted around now, hows that going?

 

well its not anymore, i have to correct my sig. I had the mani, the oil lines, the shrouds, turbo, and hoses connected, then i ran as of Nov 5 2005, for a while, it wsa going smooth till my AC interfierd, then my front fans and my front motor mount ( just barely gave me enought clearnace ) my did run for a while ( correctly ) and AEM EMS was out of my budget, so i had no choice to return to my old 9:5:1 setup. The problem was i sold all my bolt ons to members of this board. Klepto got my intake and my headers i gave to some kid down the street from me who had a 94 accord. I sold most of the kit then orderd some new bolt ons and a intake mani, along with a new tranny. My setup should be faster that i was but as far as taking Shiney out with his 100 shot i cannot ) Id have to get N20 to beat him . take a look at the DIY in the tech section, the H23 mani swap is explained there and i will be doing my own in a couple days. Stay tuned. Ill post pics of my engine bay tommaro. I added the oil catch can ( it does work and works dam good, theres already oil in it that would have gotten into my intake mani ) and breather valve ( no brainer DIY ) but ill show you anyway

 

did you port out the second set of runners so they are always open? cause the f2x doesent have secondarys so they will not open and they will be useless, and make you loose power. there is a complete vaccume system that opens and closes the secondary runners. why didnt you use the h23 fuel rail and injectors? just curious. it seems as tho there is an easier way to do it.

 

and im sure you could have used the f23 thermostat housing instead of the h23 one.

 

you guys are very knowledgeable about motor... makes me want to take a shop class

 

first off, you cant use the h23 fuel rail since it would interfear with the egr because of the way the fuel line would be coming in, and the length, which would cause you to have to ditch the egr... and you'd have to re-route the fuel line. Im using a JDM h22 fuel rail ( located on drivers side like you want it to be ) as well as a H22 TB on the H23 Mani. This way i can keep my egr and use the H23 thermostat that came with the manifold aslo, .. for a perfect fitment without all that bs modding. This wasnt my DIY, but it is close to what im doing. ( my way is much more Bolt on freindly. The secondaries are vacume operated and will work with our vacume lines once connected. Its a f22b1 Btw

 

i thought that was your diy...

and your ecu isnt mapped for that much air to flow thru. itll have a horrable bottom end. say idle to bout 2500rpm.

the dude in the diy was using the h23 thermostat housing or f23 housing? wasent too clear on that. why would you use the h23 one instead of the f23.. since it does bolt to the block and not the intake mani.

 

Nuff said

 

would an H22 manifold work at all??

 

idk, i only know the h23 mani works with some minor fitment adjustments to make sure the vtec solonoid isnt touched by the end of the mani.


To the guy who "noobed" me. were is the love ? This mod will help you gain power and let your 2.2 breath brotha. and, i dont want to pull the egr so a JDM fuel rail off a h22 will make it so it doesnt interfear i tried blocking it off today and i threw a cell the only way to bypass the cel is to get a obdII to OBDI harness and chip a p28 get it chromed and mabye run a wideback to make sure all that extra air wont lean you out.

 

the H23 fits first off, and i dont own a F23 Im F22 ( if it matters any ) He used the parts from the F23 and h23 to make it work, but he began leaking since he could only fit one bolt in. thats why he said its best to use the whole H23 thermo because it will clear the fuel rail and line up properly. also, he said bottom end was much much better. Im will be purchasing a wideband to get my fuel to were it needs to be. there only 400 on ebay and i feel its important to get one ( you dont need it though) ill link you to the entire thread. You can read all the issues he had and the results.http://accordinglydone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11176

 

U are a and btw I have 3.0 Brotha. And I was just playin with ya. I'm a sarcastic son of a bitch. Everyone on here knows that. I got nothin but love up in here. :gheyhug:

 

word bro 3.0 should have come in 5spd or 6spd such potential

 

Tell me about it

 

sounds like a fresh ass mod.

i have an extra h22 intake mani and an extra h23 intake mani in the garage ill look to see if they are interchangeable. i know theres something different about them but i dont remember. i think the runners are shorter or something on the h22.. idk.

 

yeah, something to do with the runners. If there to long, they wont fit Wilp, can i control fuel to air with a n-300 wide band ? i can pick one up for 250. Also, have you ever replaced the timing belt on a 2.2 accord/ cl ? I have a crank pulley and belt from UR i bought for 40 dollars from ebay ( got lucky, the gentalmen didnt know what it was or what is was worth, he sold it out of his garage that his son used to work in for his car I want to get some insight aside from the DIY i posted from a person with experties such as yourself. I might as well replace the belt again, this time by myself because ill be down there anyways and i have to put a retainer on the front balance shaft seal ( it popped out !!! ) oil spilled everwere