changing my suspension
#1
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changing my suspension
Anything I should watch out for before I dismantle everything? I've changed a couple suspensions before, but they've always been McPherson struts on Subarus, not upper & lower control arms.
#4
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It's a piece of cake. The only thing that I remember hanging me up when I did mine was a stubborn bolt that wouldn't come loose. I only removed the bolt for the struts. I didn't unbolt any of the arms. I remember the rear strut being tricky to get out. I had to push down on the rotor to give me some clearance to get it out. When you get the top clear, you tilt it to the front of the car... I am pretty sure. Also, make sure you got spring compressors. The springs, especially the fronts, are really compressed.
#6
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Not sure about the torque specs, but all you need are sizes 12,14, and 17MM. Deep 14MM socket to unbolt the strut top from the car. The 12MM will be for the front brake line bracket. The 17MM fot the front lower fork. 14MM for everything else.
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#8
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Thanks.
A scan of the parts would be very helpful as I don't really know where to start on a control armed car. I'm assuming that you undo the brake lines & speed sensors, strap on the spring compressor, and then I'll figure it out from there.
A scan of the parts would be very helpful as I don't really know where to start on a control armed car. I'm assuming that you undo the brake lines & speed sensors, strap on the spring compressor, and then I'll figure it out from there.
#12
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OK I'LL JUST TYPE INSTRUCTRIONS!!!!
Front Damper
REMOVAL
1. Remove front wheels.
2. Remove brake hose mounting bolts from the damper.
3. Remover flange bolt (top of fork).
4. Remove flange bolt and self-locking nut from the damper fork, remove damper fork.
5. Remove damper by removing the three flange nuts.
INSTALLATION
1. Loosely install the damper on the frame with the aligning tab facing inside, and loosely install the three flange nuts (top of damper).
2. Install damper fork over the driveshaft and onto lower control arm. Install the front damper in the damper fork so the aligning tab is aligned with the slot in the damper fork.
3. Loosely install the flange bolt into the damper fork.
4. Loosly install a new self locking nut with the flange bolt.
5. Raise the knuckle with a floor jack until the it lifts just off the stand.
6. Tighten the flange bolt (32lbf-ft, top of fork).
7. Tighten the self loking nut (47lbf-ft).
8. Tighten the flange nuts on top of damper (28lbf-ft).
9. Install brake hose mounting bolts (16lbf-ft).
10. Install front wheel.
REAR DAMPER
REMOVAL
1. Remove rear wheel.
2. Remove rear seat back.
3. Pull back seat trim and remove the two flange nuts.
4. Remove the flange bolt (under brake caliper).
5. Lower suspension and remove damper.
INSTALLATION
1. Lower suspension and position the damper with the welded nut pointed toward the front of veichle.
2. Loosely install two flange nuts (top).
3. Loosely install flange bolt.
4. Raise suspension with a floor jack just like front.
5. Tighten flange bolt (40lbf-ft).
6. Tighten two flange nuts on top (28lbf-ft).
7. Install rear seat back and trunk side trim.
8. Install rear wheel.
THIS SHOULD BE A FAQ OR SOMETHING!!
Front Damper
REMOVAL
1. Remove front wheels.
2. Remove brake hose mounting bolts from the damper.
3. Remover flange bolt (top of fork).
4. Remove flange bolt and self-locking nut from the damper fork, remove damper fork.
5. Remove damper by removing the three flange nuts.
INSTALLATION
1. Loosely install the damper on the frame with the aligning tab facing inside, and loosely install the three flange nuts (top of damper).
2. Install damper fork over the driveshaft and onto lower control arm. Install the front damper in the damper fork so the aligning tab is aligned with the slot in the damper fork.
3. Loosely install the flange bolt into the damper fork.
4. Loosly install a new self locking nut with the flange bolt.
5. Raise the knuckle with a floor jack until the it lifts just off the stand.
6. Tighten the flange bolt (32lbf-ft, top of fork).
7. Tighten the self loking nut (47lbf-ft).
8. Tighten the flange nuts on top of damper (28lbf-ft).
9. Install brake hose mounting bolts (16lbf-ft).
10. Install front wheel.
REAR DAMPER
REMOVAL
1. Remove rear wheel.
2. Remove rear seat back.
3. Pull back seat trim and remove the two flange nuts.
4. Remove the flange bolt (under brake caliper).
5. Lower suspension and remove damper.
INSTALLATION
1. Lower suspension and position the damper with the welded nut pointed toward the front of veichle.
2. Loosely install two flange nuts (top).
3. Loosely install flange bolt.
4. Raise suspension with a floor jack just like front.
5. Tighten flange bolt (40lbf-ft).
6. Tighten two flange nuts on top (28lbf-ft).
7. Install rear seat back and trunk side trim.
8. Install rear wheel.
THIS SHOULD BE A FAQ OR SOMETHING!!
#14
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Dammit, I tried changing the suspension today but the bottom fork bolts all snapped off. Damn Honda dealer won't get them in stock until Thursday, and they're $8 apiece.
#16
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I didn't get it out yet. Just the bolt head snapped off, so there's still some bolt holding everything together. But I'll park the car until the bolts come in later this week just in case.
Apparently Sears sells something called a screw/bolt puller, which is designed to retrieve broken bolts. You drill into the bolt, throw the drill in reverse, and somehow it extracts it. I haven't gone to look at it yet.
Apparently Sears sells something called a screw/bolt puller, which is designed to retrieve broken bolts. You drill into the bolt, throw the drill in reverse, and somehow it extracts it. I haven't gone to look at it yet.
#17
Lots of JDM parts on my
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Wow!! What were you using to take these bolts off? Were you really forcing them? I guess I should have mentioned to get you some liquid wrench if you have stubborn bolts.
#18
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I'm using my favorite 3' long Craftsman socket wrench with a pivoting head. I can break loose (or off ) any bolts with that thing.
And I did prespray the bolts with wd40. Guess it doesn't help that the car is caked in salt for half the year every year.
And I did prespray the bolts with wd40. Guess it doesn't help that the car is caked in salt for half the year every year.
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