I have not checked the voltage the TPS sensor is putting out. One of the guys at this shop told me I should check that first because if it's not getting the right voltage that could be making the car think it's getting gas when it's not and vice versa. Does anyone know what voltage our TPS sensor should be getting when it's opened/closed or whatever? Weird thing is this puttering problem does not happen all the time, its inconsistent and sometimes the engine light will come on and sometimes it wont. I was thinking it might also be oxyen sensor related any suggestions?

 

So its a hesitation problem? Does it feel like a misfire? When does it happen (specific rev range)? With more details, I'm sure someone can help.

 

damn mine does the exact same things. Engine light comes on after about 10-20 minutes of driving, and the putter thing... does yours happen like when you stop at a stoplight? Mine does that shit once in a while, I hate it. car shakes for a second and it feels like it wants to stall, than it's gone. No clue what it is, but if i find out i'll let you know. please let me know too.

 

the tps sensor doesent put out voltage it puts out a signal....kind of....well it tells the computer how far open the t/b is. to adjust it u have to ohm it. unplug it and check the resistance. if it is at the wrong resistance loosen the screws and (with the car off) angle the sensor itself back or fourth untill the proper resistance is met. unfortunatly i dont know the resistance for the h22. but it shouldnt be too hard to figure out. another thing u can do is start the car and unplug the tps then try to throttle up. if it still does the same thing then theres the problem.

sorry i dont know all the specifics.

 

what code are you throwing? My intake manifold gasket is fucked up and it makes the car run like garbage after its warmed up. Sounds like are running too rich, can you smell gas in your exaust at all? Need more info to properly diagnose your probelm.

 

actually the tps is a voltage based sensor and the readings you should get off it are 0.5V at Fully Closed Throttle and 4.5V at Wide Open Throttle.

 

I agree, you may be running rich. what ecu are you guys using, whats your idle rpm, are you back firing?

 

whoa whoa whoa is it jes me or all the h22`s down here have the same fucken problem find out yours im taking off my exhaust so i can hear my motor working by tomm. but my car putters way too much i think im either running too rich or lean i need get my vafc tuned.

 

just curious, what egr valve are you people using and is your motor obd1 or 2? I'm using my obd2 egr on the obd1 h22, no problems.

 

thats why i said "kind of" it doesent put out voltage it transfers a certain ammount as required as kind of a signal. and do u know what the resitance is when there is no power aplied? i think that would be the easiest way to adjust it.

 

To add, have any of you guys tried disconnecting the vac hose to the EGR valve to see the results while driving? Sounds like an EGR miss to me, and this could isolate or at least eliminate this from a list of problems.

 

Whewwwww Thanks for all the responses, at least I know I am far from the only one in this boat. Here is the deal, the motor runs great, strong and all, but the puttering is so inconsistant I can not put a finger on what exactly it might be. I have a fairly new TPS sensor on so I do not believe it's that, but I will test it LACURCA97's advice and see if that is an issue. Some days I could be driving and the car will be fine, then if I start getting in traffic and I am in like 2nd or 3rd barely pressing on the gas, the car will putter as if it's not getting gas, than if I press down on the gas the car jerks and starts going again. Most of the time it does this with the engine light off and sometimes it may not do it at all. If the car is puttering and the engine light comes on, oddly enough the puttering usually stops. My current O2 setup is like the f22 motor. Even though the prelude only had one, we modded the prelude exhaust to have 2 just like the f22 and I am not sure if the car is getting confused. I am running the Stock P13 ECU. My boy was saying I need a fuel pump or regulator or both, but I am not sure how correct he is considering sometimes the car runs perfectly fine. I guess I should also look into a new fuel filter too. My mechanic was saying that he is having a hard time reading the the code the engine is throwing because going from OBD2 to OBD1 is confusing his code reader and not giving the correct read out so we are not sure on how to find the code. Well I hope this explains the issue a little deeper, what do you guys think now?

 

fuel filter yes, fuel pump no. Stock fuel pump is MORE than adequate for the h22. Did any of you guys remove the intake manifold when putting the engine in? You pretty much have to but i suppose its poissible to do it while its still on. If so make sure you don't have a gasket leak because that will make the car run like crap. Its very intermittant too, because when the gasket heats up it expands and contracts. make sure all the obvious stuff is ok too. coil, ecm, wires, plugs, cap, grounds ( ESPECAILLY THE ONE ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING!!) if thats not hooked up you car will never run right.

 

97CLgenius, how does ur car idle? were you saying that while trying to maintain a constant speed, the car putters? If ur cruising at a certain speed and let go of the gas, does the car jerk back?

 

i have the same problem for my civic.... i swapped in a zc and it putters as well....

 

My car back fires when I shift, putters when I light throttle and jerks when I gas it. Every one of us just needs better tuning. I'd say every one of us is running alittle rich. A good Hondata system or AEM engine management system should solve these problems. H22's put more stress on the stock mounts, if you have old mounts, it's going to jerk. Programing will take some of the jerk away but it also helps to have motor mount inserts and if you can afford it install an engine damper on the motor. They cost about a hundred bucks and chances are you will have to custom mount it, but it will help alot. The less jerk you have the more power you will put to the ground, plus it will save your axles from unwanted wear.

 

Mine does not back fire, but I definatly get putter at light throttle. I am gonna Dyno it and see where my air to fuel is at.

 

mine back fires,and putters i know i need a new throttle cable but dont think that has something todo with it....my car idles regular when its at a complete stop but after alil driving/speeding or in traffic it starts to rise to almost 2 grand what do you think that would be??

 

maybee its a timing thing. try advancing it a little or making sure its dead on. or as simple as a pin hole burned into the plug wire where the nylon boot is. sparks can excape from there and make ur car run like ass.