YL Al

sup guys so as u know i did that rotor over hub conversion on one side and i went and bought a 3.0 rotor, fitted it right into that 2.3 spindle and put on the brake bracket and caliper ,turned all bolts till evertything was TIGHT

so i go drive and vibrating like a bitch above 10 mph when i brake ......i reopend and found uneven wear on the pads(new pads)

the new rotor and pads now have about 40 miles on them. i called the auto parts store they said i can return it but i wanna know if thats the problem, is there such thing as new warped rotors ?? or did i fuk up a bushin or a tie rod while changing the knuckle(along with the bearin and hub).

thanks for any info u can provide

i just hope that it is warped so i can just swap that shit out and replace it with a new one. the rotor was douched with cleaning solvent right before install. and the vibration was right away i didnt even have time to get it up to speed and accually fuk it up if thats what ur thinking.

YL Al

bump for some help

SupraManAG

make sure you hooked them up right. when they went in they slid in properly and not crooked. upon inspection you can make that decision but yes rotors can be warped or damaged.

bRunCL

iTrader: (1)

the only thing I can think of is if you did not put some brake lube on the caliper slide pin, your caliper could be sticking causing the uneven wear...just a possibility

YL Al

how would i lube the slide pins, and would that cause the harsh vibration at speeds as low as 10 mph ?

oh u know the two screws that hold the rotor,well i only put ONE back on. i doubt that can cause a problem.

i dont know im leading to think its a caliper problem cuz rotor looks fine.

and also the brackets that hold the pads, the front pad gets stuck in the bracket frame, i hammered it to get through to touch the rotor...can that be another reason?


as far as the rotor not sliding in properly i doubt thats possible with the after pressure applied to it by the lug nuts,everything seems tight but please tell me more about the slide pins/mounting bracket

OttaWacK

measure the lateral runout of the rotor at the outter most edge using a dial indicator....within spec is at most 6thou of an inch. Try that then go from there.

YL Al

so a rotor can come from the factory with enough run out to vibrate at such low speeds when engaging the brake? remember i never used the rotor.

GhettoNinja06

iTrader: (1)

I'm no breaks/rotor expert but the rotor has 2 screws for a reason... Would you bolt your wheel on with 3 instead of 4 nuts? It may have seemed to be on there solid with one bolt but when traveling at speed and braking might have made it uneven causing it to warp or the pad to wear unevenly

I don't want to sould like a smartass but that might be your problem.

BTW, by screws do you mean bolts?

YL Al

everyone knows those screws aren't functional atleast we hope so ..

but those two screws(not bolts) are located between the holes on the rotor which the hub lugs go through. but i think the force from the lug nuts on the rotor kinda makes those screws pointless

but maybe my problem is the mounting bracket? do the pads have to move across the mounting bracket ? like i said earlier the front pad was hammered through the bracket and onto the surface of the rotor so its basically stuck on the bracket.

SupraManAG

dont worry. they dont line up at least mine didnt. they are as a precaution but ultimately cause more problems from rust and so. you have to use an impact screw driver to get em out and even then they strip n break. you CAN do without them because the rim does hold the rotor in place. remove all components and if installed properly replace your rotors. where did you buy em and what brand?

YL Al

i bought them from a local auto store i think they are raybestos amico gs rotors for 40 buxs , cheapest ones i think. i was trying to save some cash for all around ball joints.

so i went ahead and ordered a new one ,guy over at the store said they will exchange it for me . if it vibrates with the new one then maybe it will be easier to diagnose the problem

and the pads are cheap ceramics

bRunCL

iTrader: (1)

yea you really dont need the two rotor retaining screws. (I had to drill one of mine out)But your pads should be fairly tight so it sounds like you have that part correct. Usually you can put some antisieze on the edges of the pads and gently tap them in to the mounting bracket.The caliper slide pins are the two bolts that secure the caliper to the mounting bracket. If these are not properly lubed, the pads can unevenly wear(dont know if it can cause vibration). If I was in your situation I would take everything apart and look for anything suspicious and put it all back together with the proper torque specs and hope for the best

YL Al

ok thanks budi

ill defintely do that as soon as i get that new rotor i ordered

using those slightly uneven worn pads will be fine right? they should adjust?

SupraManAG

eventually but there is a good chance your rotors are frupped. $40 rotors dont sound right

YL Al

frupped as in it could be the cause? obama aint providing man i cant aim any higher than 40 dollar rotors

Gnate

iTrader: (10)

I got 4 new brembo rotors for less than $150... I hope they aren't warped lol

SupraManAG

obama or not. if you wana save dont do them at all. dont drive the car period.

Eband27

The only way to warp a rotor other than driving like a idiot, is during installation, if you put the lug nuts the wrong way, it will warp the rotor.

If you put 1 nut, tighten it like crazy with a impact drive, then put the next on NEXT to it, and tighten it like crazy and so on, the force distribution isn't going to be equal, and if u used the cheapest rotor, its probably weaker than lets say OEM or Brembo or Rotora.. So you warped your rotor. Same thing applies to a engine head, thats why there is tightening sequences, not to warp the metal part.

The correct way to put lugnuts is with an X patter. U put all nuts by hand untill u can't tighten them anymore, then with a torque wrench u set it to 10lbs/ft less than the specification, and start with one, then do the one in front of it following an X pattern, and then you put your torque wrench at the correct specification and redo the same steps.

YL Al

well a torque stick was used at 80lbft at x pattern but when i got home i felt it wasnt tight enough so i torqued it some more with my hand , so is it possible that could've warped the rotor, it wasnt even pressurized

GhettoNinja06

iTrader: (1)

woa! You could torque more than 80lbft with your hands?? You must be bionic.

Eband27

He probably used a tire wrench with a tube extension to torque it like a crazy muda fuka. lol, i used to do that on my cars, i stoped when i learned it could damage my rotors and my non-steel rims!

YL Al

well with a 2 foot breaker bar u can usually put out more than 200 lb/ft with ur foot

but ghetto byhands i meant ,stepped on that mofo till it had no where to go but squeek

however i cant understand how overtorquiing can warp a rotor cuz the pressure would be in the middle section of the rotor where the hub is..unless maybe by overtorquing the bolts will stretch out causing looseness and the rotor will start wobbling causing it to warp?...

Dicorp

I don't beleive you can warp your brand new rotors during install. the engine head analogy is bullshit, most heads are aluminum, a soft metal. rotors are solid steel.

the quickest way to warp your rotor is to skip the proper break in procedure. and buy garbage brands and expect them perform like stock Lamborghini rotors. don't slam the brakes.

YL Al

..ok so ur saying that its not possible that i warped my rotor, that means :

the rotor is defected from factory(how common is that?)

remmeber the vibration was instant,it never braked good and then started vibration

what other reasons would cause vibration to steering wheel after a brake/spindle job?

SupraManAG

ur making a huge deal over nothing. just change em and ull find out. stop with the surveys. when you do change them let us know

YL Al

no im just anxious cuz i havent driven it for 3 months now and i spent around 3 gs just to fix the dam car in the last year, i feel like all the work on it has been in vain,and now it has 140 k on it.

SupraManAG

yeah? check out my thread just below. i havent driven it in a year. imagine how much i put in that

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I haven't driven my car in way longer than 3 months too

YL Al

I THINK GOT IT

abs sensor false modulation

remember how i changed the knuckle ,well the abs sensor on there might've been fudged up causing false readings of wheel speed resulting in releasing the brakes and causing the 'skipping' symptom associated with a warped rotor.

SupraManAG

then simply unplug abs and check it out

Eband27

I'v seen warped rotors from overtightening while folowing the wrong tightening sequence.