proaudio22

Ok, I went through the search but may not have found much as it doesn't let you use short words, so I had to use stuff like "air cond*" etc as keywords. Didn't find too much info, so chime in if you've done ac work or if you had it done (and know what they did) so in the future people can find this thread for info.

I've got some sort of problem that just developed: when the air has been on a while (over an hour) and it's hot - it's stopped blowing cold. Haven't determined if the compressor is running, I was down in Atl with my girlfriend so didn't mess around much. Just like "F^ck what is wrong with the air, it's HOT!" It worked fine for two and a half hours after it sat all night, then it just started to get warm. Then the car sat outside a mall for two hours and it was cold when we got back in for like an hour, then it was back to blowing warm again (well it just seems like outside air).

Anyone have this problem? On our Suburban at work, we had a similar problem and it ended up being a low pressure switch that was bad so it wouldn't cut the compressor off after it got cold, so it froze up - literally. It also was low on coolant, it was in the yellow on the guage. Do we have a low pressure switch like this on our cars? I wish I had an A/C diagram...

I'm going to get our gauge tomorrow and check the coolant, then go from there.

TexasHonda

Usually loss of refrigerant is the problem when AC stops after parking the car in the sun for a few hours. The high interior temps raise system pressure and push the charge out through a leak. In your case, a big leak. You need to have someone check the system for leaks to locate the failed component. Look for a rock in the condensor, or failed compressor shaft seal.

good luck

smoky14

Check the evap drain for blockage. In high humidity areas the evap freezes if the drain tube is blocked. It thawes while you have it parked,works for an hour or so till it freezes up again and the cycle repeats.

proaudio22

It's the opposite tho, when parked (which was been in the heat) for a while, it's fine then. Only after running for a while does it start going downhill. Sounds like maybe it's not a leak then?

proaudio22

Where's the drain at? Something like this sounds more like my problem, and very similar to our Suburban too.

TexasHonda

Sorry, I misread your post.

If the compressor is failing to engage after a hour or so of operation, the most likely reason is excess clutch gap or weak clutch coil.

You can confirm excess clutch gap w/ a simple test. When the compressor is refusing to run, tap the compressor clutch face sharply w/ a heavy stick. If the compressor engages and begins to run, you know the clutch gap is too large.

Fix for excess clutch gap is to remove the clutch plate, remova a shim beneath the clutch plate center to reduce the gap to w/i spec, usually about 20 +/- 5 mils.

good luck

proaudio22

yuck...so perhaps time for a new compressor if the coil is weak or is that something you can change too?

proaudio22

Ok, small update. I haven't had the problem happen again b/c I simply haven't driven that much again but I did put a gauge on it - showed 35-40lbs when I first turned the A/C on, then after 5 mins it was down to 25lbs. Isn't it supposed to be 40-45lbs AFTER it's settle down???

TexasHonda

No, if it's moderate temps (80-90F), and the compressor is not cycling on-off, then a low of 25 psi is good, and should generate good cooling.

Clutch coil can be replaced w/o discharging the system, but on a 4cyl you have to remove PS and alternator to access the compressor mount. Remove compressor from mount and tilt to access the clutch plate, remove clutch plate, remove snap ring, and remove clutch coil. If adjusting gap, you remove a shim washer from beneath the clutch plate, re-install, and check gap. Replace removed shim w/ thinner shim if gap is too large.

It is more likely excess clutch gap than weak coil. Weak coil will usually be weak all the time.

good luck

proaudio22

Ok, thanks - I really appreciate the info. Do you work on these things regularly?

I have the 3.0 V6, so it appears I only have to remove the alternator (which brings up another problem, I need to order a specialty bolt as removing the alternator again will surely ruin it this time). Is there a guide, maybe with pictures for dummies, on this? Something with the gap tolerances? How does the gap widen like that? Should the clutch be replaced?

TexasHonda

An Acura shop manual for your model is your best guide to this work. You can purchase online from several sources. Try a google search for "acura shop manual". I learned about AC work the hard way, by DIY. I've repaired a number of cars over the years, but am not a professional.

The repair I described was for a 4-cyl, and V6 is likely different. It may not be possible to repair in place as described. You will need decent access to face of compressor to remove the clutch plate retaining bolt a 6mm bolt for a 10mm socket. A special tool is usually used to hold the clutch plate from rotating, but a good strap wrench on the clutch face may be able to hold. Tool is readily available for rental or purchase from AZ, et al.

Clutch is a steel plate that wears. If tolerances were near high side initially, then wear increased gap till problem appears. Clutch does not need replacing. Wear is probably 10 mils or so.

good luck

proaudio22

Ok, some updates:

It happened again this weekend after only an hour of driving in the middle of the day - hot as hell though, like 96 outside. Checked under the hood after it happened, the compressor is indeed running - so that's not the problem. Drove it back home, put the pressure gauge on the low side while it was still running - didn't even move the needle!!! Ok, so like an idiot I bought a 14oz can of r134a and put the whole thing in it - still didn't even move the needle!!! WTF!?!

Didn't drive it Sunday, but it said 0psi that morning too. This morning it said almost 100lbs off, 45lbs on, but it had dropped to like 20lbs on only a 15min drive to work. I'm thinking something is blocking the system? It can't be a leak if the pressure shows back up???

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

ya my a/c is fucked..blowin hot air, really sucks in traffic with the brutal humidity

TexasHonda

If the compressor is engaging, your low side has to be higher than zero. There is a low pressure cut-out switch that will disable the compressor when pressure is too low. This protects the compressor.

I suspect your low pressure side only gauge was simply not depressing the schrader valve, and consequently you registered zero pressure. You can verify by manually depressing the schrader valve w/ a tool. If you have any pressure, you know your connection was bad.

So your problem could now be overcharged AC system, but in any case you need a set of manifold gauges to measure high and low side pressures w/ compressor running to diagnose your problem.

good luck

baka_t

Wow buddy your still around? I figured you would of sold your car and had a 350z by now.

subbuzz

sorry to jack but my a/c is cold as f*ck when im driving.now when i stop the air get's warmer(still cold though)but so does my car (temp guage over half).both fans are working,just replaced thermostat.think its the radiator?also i smelt a faint gas smell,(don't know if it was me)if it was that's the headgasket correct?

proaudio22

Heh...I still dig that car but I wanted to mod it. Really turned me off with all the people blowing up engines, plus there were tons of other problems. I don't want to get rid of one set to get another right away.

I kinda just let the car thing go, was traveling for a while with work. At that point I was trying to decide which rental car was better.

I'd really love to just pick up a ~2002 zo6 and be done with it. Just have to pay for those damn tires then, $1000 @ 15K miles

proaudio22

Hmm...didn't think about that.

What in the world would make it drop that much (25lbs in 15 mins) but not be a leak?