Brembo Install!!!
Brembo Install!!!
Ok so what's up with the easiness of the install of the rotors and the pads for our cars? Is this something easy or does a shop need to put these on? I have a 98 3.0 do I need an special tools? Or perhaps someone has a write-up on a DIY install?
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someone told me today about performance rotors and pads that you gotta "bed" them in? I've heard of this before but not exactly sure how it's done......like you gotta slam on the brakes right atfer you put them on? is this BS or true?
NO NO DO NOT DO THAT!!!!!!!!
1)accelerate vehicle to 30 MPH
2)aplly brakes using "light" to "moderate" pedal effortto a slow stop
3)repeat process 10 times allowing 30 second intervals for brake recovery between each process.
under no circumstances should the vehicle be driven with brakes continually applied during the break-in precess as this will cause
1) excessive heat to be generated
2)resins to be burnt
3)losss of braking efficiency.
be certain to avoid heavy braking or panic stops for the first 150-200 miles of driving, this prevents the creatoion of "glaze" before the pads havea a chance to properly seat.
(taken fromt he PBR instructions.)
1)accelerate vehicle to 30 MPH
2)aplly brakes using "light" to "moderate" pedal effortto a slow stop
3)repeat process 10 times allowing 30 second intervals for brake recovery between each process.
under no circumstances should the vehicle be driven with brakes continually applied during the break-in precess as this will cause
1) excessive heat to be generated
2)resins to be burnt
3)losss of braking efficiency.
be certain to avoid heavy braking or panic stops for the first 150-200 miles of driving, this prevents the creatoion of "glaze" before the pads havea a chance to properly seat.
(taken fromt he PBR instructions.)
Originally posted by red99cl2.3
NO NO DO NOT DO THAT!!!!!!!!
1)accelerate vehicle to 30 MPH
2)aplly brakes using "light" to "moderate" pedal effortto a slow stop
3)repeat process 10 times allowing 30 second intervals for brake recovery between each process.
under no circumstances should the vehicle be driven with brakes continually applied during the break-in precess as this will cause
1) excessive heat to be generated
2)resins to be burnt
3)losss of braking efficiency.
be certain to avoid heavy braking or panic stops for the first 150-200 miles of driving, this prevents the creatoion of "glaze" before the pads havea a chance to properly seat.
(taken fromt he PBR instructions.)
NO NO DO NOT DO THAT!!!!!!!!
1)accelerate vehicle to 30 MPH
2)aplly brakes using "light" to "moderate" pedal effortto a slow stop
3)repeat process 10 times allowing 30 second intervals for brake recovery between each process.
under no circumstances should the vehicle be driven with brakes continually applied during the break-in precess as this will cause
1) excessive heat to be generated
2)resins to be burnt
3)losss of braking efficiency.
be certain to avoid heavy braking or panic stops for the first 150-200 miles of driving, this prevents the creatoion of "glaze" before the pads havea a chance to properly seat.
(taken fromt he PBR instructions.)
thanks guys! you all are very helpful!
Another thought came into my mind.....b/c I always hear about brake specials on the radio......"turning" the rotors....i know what it is, but what are the rules on aftermarket rotors that are slotted and x-drilled?
Another thought came into my mind.....b/c I always hear about brake specials on the radio......"turning" the rotors....i know what it is, but what are the rules on aftermarket rotors that are slotted and x-drilled?
I put my rears on yesterday and i can not for the life of me adjust them so the pads dont rub. they were fine when i put the wheels on but after a test drive they rub. they are way thicker than my old pads. i guess i have to go to a mechanic.
Just a reminder, make sure the rotors face the proper way. First priority is that the internal vanes face the right directions, which is like so:

The second priority is that the slots face the proper way, like so:

Now, if the vanes and the slots face the same way on your rotors, follow the first picture, as it's VERY IMPORTANT to the brakes cooling. The second pic is so that the slots do not trap material.
Now, as far as rotor seasoning and pad bedding, this is THE BEST guide I've found:
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=4
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5

The second priority is that the slots face the proper way, like so:

Now, if the vanes and the slots face the same way on your rotors, follow the first picture, as it's VERY IMPORTANT to the brakes cooling. The second pic is so that the slots do not trap material.
Now, as far as rotor seasoning and pad bedding, this is THE BEST guide I've found:
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=4
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5
The first part is def a DUH, but you never can tell. The second part is not very well known to most mechanics as they don't see this kind of rotor that often. They might assume the direction goes the way that it looks the best, and BOTH things will be opposite - that would be BAD!
rotors are installed.. finally. some nice shit.
http://imageevent.com/projekt_h22cl/...24&w=4&x=0&p=0
http://imageevent.com/projekt_h22cl/...24&w=4&x=0&p=0
Aren't these backwards? This would cause the heat to be funneled towards the hub, not the edge of the rotor.
Originally posted by proaudio22
The second priority is that the slots face the proper way, like so:

Now, if the vanes and the slots face the same way on your rotors, follow the first picture, as it's VERY IMPORTANT to the brakes cooling. The second pic is so that the slots do not trap material.
The second priority is that the slots face the proper way, like so:

Now, if the vanes and the slots face the same way on your rotors, follow the first picture, as it's VERY IMPORTANT to the brakes cooling. The second pic is so that the slots do not trap material.
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jmoney2001
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Sep 11, 2015 12:07 PM


h22 should be here next week.

